Best Front 2" Drop, Spindle vs. Control Arm?
#1
Best Front 2" Drop, Spindle vs. Control Arm?
I'm looking for input on which is the best way to achieve 2" of Drop on the front of our NNBS GMT900's. I'm considering going with the Ground Force spindles, versus going with DJM Control Arms. Cost wise, they are about a wash.
I've heard good stuff about the GF spindles, but I'm concerned about clearance to the ball joint stud with my 18" factory wheels. Also, I'd expect to perhaps lose some turning radius with the spindles.
On the other hand, I've already got a rear DJM flip kit (went this route specifically for ability to adjust pinion angle...), so I could stick with them and their front lower control arm. While their stuff is powder coated, I believe they use mild steel and I live where they use boatloads of salt in the winter. Long-term, I'd suspect they'd become stone chipped and would begin to rust.
I already have and plan to use one of the above in conjunction with McGaughy's coil relocators up front, shooting for a 3/5 Drop while maintaining factory ride quality.
Any advice is welcome. If you've used/are using one or the other and can offer favorable/unfavorable experience, I'd be interested to hear about that as well.
I've heard good stuff about the GF spindles, but I'm concerned about clearance to the ball joint stud with my 18" factory wheels. Also, I'd expect to perhaps lose some turning radius with the spindles.
On the other hand, I've already got a rear DJM flip kit (went this route specifically for ability to adjust pinion angle...), so I could stick with them and their front lower control arm. While their stuff is powder coated, I believe they use mild steel and I live where they use boatloads of salt in the winter. Long-term, I'd suspect they'd become stone chipped and would begin to rust.
I already have and plan to use one of the above in conjunction with McGaughy's coil relocators up front, shooting for a 3/5 Drop while maintaining factory ride quality.
Any advice is welcome. If you've used/are using one or the other and can offer favorable/unfavorable experience, I'd be interested to hear about that as well.
#3
with the 18 rims. you will need to tighten the ball joints up then cut of the stud. grind it all the way down to the factory nut if you want to use your 17" spare. I have the GF spindles and theres no noticeable loss in steering.
#4
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (36)
I'd use the coil relocators if I had it to do again. You can get 2 inches out of the re locators and your turning radius will not be affected. The draw back to spindles is they kill the hell out of the turning radius and I really miss that about my truck once complete. But I don't want to replace all 4 ball joints to go back the other direction. I've just learned to live with it.
Originally I was at a 3/5 with spindles and coil relocators but now I'm at 2/3 with spindles only.
Originally I was at a 3/5 with spindles and coil relocators but now I'm at 2/3 with spindles only.
Trending Topics
#10
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (36)
If you did 22's at the same time that's why you probably didn't notice the loss of turning radius. I'm on stock denali 17's and its a huge difference. Got the turning radius of a 72 eldorado now.
Loss of turning radius is nothing new with mcg spindles and some others it's not isolated to my truck. Hit the search above and there is more than enough reading to help you make a well informed decision from others experiences.
Loss of turning radius is nothing new with mcg spindles and some others it's not isolated to my truck. Hit the search above and there is more than enough reading to help you make a well informed decision from others experiences.