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Old 01-16-2017, 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by thewrx
well it used to be down the street from my house, now not so much,

i think hes a hippy or runs a dispensary with the weirdos on the west coast or something.
Hey hey hey I'm in the Bay Area 😎 Just haters cause I'm able to walk my dog outside and take my truck and cars and bikes for spins whatever I want year round. Idk where you're from but doesn't sound like west coast lol
Old 01-16-2017, 12:20 PM
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He's from Texas and Texas doesn't like anywhere but Texas, lol. I lived there for 4 years and Loved it! But all my family lives in Oregon so that's where I live now. Sutherlin OR, just off I5 is where my shop is. I'd be happy to build you a set of hot pipes.

Turbo depends on how much power you want to make. But like I said, for a mild 5.3 and 8-10lbs of boost, you can't beat a BW s366. And they have an AWESOME whistle to them! lol Most performance turbos don't have a silencer ring in them. That's more of an OEM thing.
Old 01-16-2017, 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by kbracing96
He's from Texas and Texas doesn't like anywhere but Texas, lol. I lived there for 4 years and Loved it! But all my family lives in Oregon so that's where I live now. Sutherlin OR, just off I5 is where my shop is. I'd be happy to build you a set of hot pipes.

Turbo depends on how much power you want to make. But like I said, for a mild 5.3 and 8-10lbs of boost, you can't beat a BW s366. And they have an AWESOME whistle to them! lol Most performance turbos don't have a silencer ring in them. That's more of an OEM thing.
ok what does a hot side with that turbo run? Do you know any other good reliable turbos around those specs a little cheaper? Maybe a rebuild or eBay turbo? Only have around 2-2.5k budget for everything and that's not including the 4l80e I want to swap in for the 60 since ill be rowing a bit but nothing heavier than 7k lbs. wonder if I rebuild my 60 to withstand 8-10 psi daily but also get on it a bit when need be. Think a 60 or 80e is tge cheaper route? Thanks
Old 01-16-2017, 05:54 PM
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My basic T4 hot pipes are $1450, just a manifold is $500 (plus shipping) and I really can't compete with ebay for what guys sell the BW s366's on there for. Any 60e will be on borrowed time behind a turbo'ed motor.
Old 01-16-2017, 07:48 PM
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Looks like an 80e it is
Old 01-18-2017, 02:46 PM
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I've been toying with the idea of throwing a turbo on my 01 Tahoe, 5.3. Since I read an junkyard turbo 5.3 build somewhere, even @ 200,000+ miles mine still runs hard and pulls great. Mostly highway miles though, but I feel it's going to give out sooner or later, may as well have some fun in the mean time. Lol. I should probably get a replacement first though.
Old 01-19-2017, 10:44 PM
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With what you already have, a budget of that much seems tight but creative planning can work.

Def. go 4L80E, it's an easy swap on the 2008 even if you wanna do a 4L80E tune instead of adapter harness with 4L60E tune.

You can do a KB manifold only and fab your own stuff to keep costs low but blow off valves and wastegate, intercooler, etc. add up quick.

I'm running 15psi on a On3 78mm turbo on my flipped manifold kit and it starts spooling around 2k (It used to have a 68mm Precision before and that thing had much quicker response but ran out of steam at about 12psi on a older kit). It's all custom built at home. Running 80lb. injectors and haven't needed a high flow pump yet ... we just bumped up the fuel pwm in the controller and it seems to work. I know we'll start running out of fuel when it's time to turn it up and add methanol inj.
Old 01-19-2017, 11:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Mean Green z28
With what you already have, a budget of that much seems tight but creative planning can work.

Def. go 4L80E, it's an easy swap on the 2008 even if you wanna do a 4L80E tune instead of adapter harness with 4L60E tune.

You can do a KB manifold only and fab your own stuff to keep costs low but blow off valves and wastegate, intercooler, etc. add up quick.

I'm running 15psi on a On3 78mm turbo on my flipped manifold kit and it starts spooling around 2k (It used to have a 68mm Precision before and that thing had much quicker response but ran out of steam at about 12psi on a older kit). It's all custom built at home. Running 80lb. injectors and haven't needed a high flow pump yet ... we just bumped up the fuel pwm in the controller and it seems to work. I know we'll start running out of fuel when it's time to turn it up and add methanol inj.
that sounds like an idea but the pipe cost a bit. 80$ a 10' stock for aluminum I think or stainless I forget. (Called an exhaust shop) But that's a lot. I'm tossing around ideas I can do so its still in the works but it's not what you know it's who ya know. I don't understand what you mean by the 80e with 60e tune or the 60e with an 80e tune?probably going to get an 80e but I just need to get the 31 spline for my transfer case. Is the spline swap pretty basic just drop the case and unbolt it then remove the clips..blah blah blah replace the spline and slap it back in? Thanks for the info

kevin
Old 01-21-2017, 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by chevykev
that sounds like an idea but the pipe cost a bit. 80$ a 10' stock for aluminum I think or stainless I forget. (Called an exhaust shop) But that's a lot. I'm tossing around ideas I can do so its still in the works but it's not what you know it's who ya know. I don't understand what you mean by the 80e with 60e tune or the 60e with an 80e tune?probably going to get an 80e but I just need to get the 31 spline for my transfer case. Is the spline swap pretty basic just drop the case and unbolt it then remove the clips..blah blah blah replace the spline and slap it back in? Thanks for the info

kevin
"most" 4L80E swaps on these trucks are done by adding a conversion harness (Frost/Speartech/etc) and deleting a few codes. The 4L60E tune will control the 4L80E trans just fine if you can get all the bugs sorted (mostly in the tune, Frost does it for a fee). Some people however, like me, decided; after a lot of headaches trying to work out the bugs, decided to forgo the adapter harnesses/etc. and re-wire the factory harness to work with a native (as I call it) 4L80E tune. The tune was designed for it (mainly the torque converter lockup and diagnostics sections) and it only makes sense to take advantage of GM's work. You also don't have to deal with relays to invert the B-Solenoid signal and another for Torque converter lockup if you want any sort of PWM control (most go with plain on/off control and forgo the relay) ... again, another failure point anytime you add anything inline.

Check out Mandrel Bending Solutions for your tubing. We've worked with them for a long time now and they're local to me, so it worked out great for me.

As for the trans/transfer case, not really sure. Maybe you could get a whole 4x4 setup and avoid having to deal with swapping stuff? Just no sure how the controls work.
Old 01-21-2017, 10:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Mean Green z28
"most" 4L80E swaps on these trucks are done by adding a conversion harness (Frost/Speartech/etc) and deleting a few codes. The 4L60E tune will control the 4L80E trans just fine if you can get all the bugs sorted (mostly in the tune, Frost does it for a fee). Some people however, like me, decided; after a lot of headaches trying to work out the bugs, decided to forgo the adapter harnesses/etc. and re-wire the factory harness to work with a native (as I call it) 4L80E tune. The tune was designed for it (mainly the torque converter lockup and diagnostics sections) and it only makes sense to take advantage of GM's work. You also don't have to deal with relays to invert the B-Solenoid signal and another for Torque converter lockup if you want any sort of PWM control (most go with plain on/off control and forgo the relay) ... again, another failure point anytime you add anything inline.

Check out Mandrel Bending Solutions for your tubing. We've worked with them for a long time now and they're local to me, so it worked out great for me.

As for the trans/transfer case, not really sure. Maybe you could get a whole 4x4 setup and avoid having to deal with swapping stuff? Just no sure how the controls work.
yea I'd rather not deal with wiring and leave it for people to make it perfect. But if it's easier to buy as a complete unit like tranny and transfer case then I might go that route but the local tranny guy wants 1600 for 80e rebuilt and the 60e as a core. He wants 900 for the transfer case to for that tranny but I think it's easier to just change the output shaft in my stock 60e transfer case or is the 900 for a transfer case the cheaper route? I'm worried it won't bolt to my front dif or be too big/long? What should I do buy new tranny and transfer case or swap tranny and keep the stock transfer case and swap splines since it will be out when I swap trannies? Thanks don't have alot of experience in swapping trannie



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