LSCustoms

iTrader: (20)

I needed to replace components in the rear drum brake setup on my truck, I had been waiting for this to be needed, with intention on "upgrading" the setup, to a disc brake setup.

After completing the swap (on my 2013 Chevy Silverado CrewCab, 40000 miles), I am very happy with the results. The truck currently has 17" factory wheels, this would be the smallest diameter wheel possible with the setup (the way I accomplished it). The parts I used are correct for 2013 Silverados, Tahoes, Suburbans etc. I did some cross referencing on part numbers, and measurements on a friends 07 Suburban etc, prior to diving in. There is a difference on the housing end/flange orientation, which locates/clocks the caliper different. So I bled the calipers slightly different than I normally would (due to the location/orientation of the bleeder screw).

Having completed the swap, I will be changing the short/flex brake lines to ss (now that I know how long they need to be and which ends need to be on them). The factory line is ok, other than I dont like having to route the line either up or down (due to the type of hose end it has on it). Having a 17" wheel, the line coming out the caliper is fairly close to the wheel and would rub, if not tied/clamped/or zip tied up (was simple to resolve for now).

I did buy these parts brand new, can be done with other older dual piston setup years etc, or junk yard parts also (if they have a suitable donor vehicle there). I wanted parts that were available for my year truck, 2013. The cost was somewhere around $500-600 total and well within my budget for the swap. No other setup was as complete, cost effective, or would fit with the factory 17" wheels that are on the truck currently... Im not sure what wheels will end up on it, if any, so decided to stick with the 13" factory rotor setup for now...

LSCustoms

iTrader: (20)

Some part numbers:
Parking Brake Anchor (main bracket) 15265913
Backing Plates/Dust Shield 25877333
Parking Brake Adjuster kit 15817021
Caliper Mounting Bolt 18K17001/AcDelco
Brake Hose/Flex 25923716
Brake Hose/Flex 25923717
Rear Left Parking Brake Cable 22851205
Rear Right Parking Brake Cable 22851206


*Parking Brake Shoe Kit 171-0992 (did not have the lever and boot and have to order two)
*Parking Brake assembly kit 89026788 (does have the levers and boots needed for the ebrake)

for the rotors, calipers (including PABs) and ceramic pads, I went with a power stop kit (which has factory re-manufactured calipers). These will be upgraded in the future with z06/wilwoods, or whatever I end up using in the future). Although you can piece together the parts also. And I do have gm part numbers for individual parts.

PowerStop KCOE2083

LSCustoms

iTrader: (20)

I ordered the correct part number for the ebrake shoes etc (for 2013), but it did not come with the levers and boots (connects to the end of the parking brake cables into the anchor plate). The levers do not appear to be sold separately. Many different kits looked like they would work fine and I found a couple that included the levers and boots and were a more complete kit. I ordered one of those to acquire the remaining pieces I needed for the swap. There was no difference between the two kits with the shoes, but the anchor plate im using, uses the initial shoe kit i ordered, and has two retaining springs on each shoe. I just took the necessary pieces out of the kit. worked perfectly and all seemed interchangeable.

these are the parts im referring to

LSCustoms

iTrader: (20)

fits between the anchor plate and backing plate, with the hook facing away from the direction the cable snaps into the bracket...

LSCustoms

iTrader: (20)

In my case, I needed the new parking brake cables because the ends on my stock ones did not have the loop... also the new left rear cable ended up being slightly longer than the original and this ended up being necessary, making it easier to hook the drivers side cable up and route it nicely...

new cable end (pictured on the left)

LSCustoms

iTrader: (20)

The rest of the install was completed to the best of my ability and using the proper factory torque specs etc. Going to glance over most of the specifics (torque specs, tool sizes etc), so thought i would state that.

On both sides, took the axles out and all the factory drum brake parts...

LSCustoms

iTrader: (20)

a short note on the housing ends... the drum brake housing ends are welded on, where the two top bolts are more parallel with the frame... the rear disc brake rear end housing flanges are rotated about 45 degrees, where it looks more like a diamond, one bolt hole on top. This makes a difference as to how the caliper will be positioned on a factory drum rear end. The conversion orients the caliper in the same manner as a wilwood, or baer brake setup and i believe those setups would utilize these same parts, other than the calipers to facilitate the install of their kits.

LSCustoms

iTrader: (20)

Also, there is a wheel speed/abs sensor ring inside the housing that has teeth. The axle should slide out nicely.. but it may not... if you have to coach it along, just be mindful to check the ring visually and make sure it is not damaged, or that you feel comfortable reinstalling the axle without replacing it.. .if you are not already replacing the seals and bearings... this ring is located between the bearing and the housing and i believe it is what is causing the issue some have with removing the axles.. .one of my axles was a pita to get out and i was able to pin point the issue to being this ring..

it is a pita to have to replace it, however the components are inexpensive should you feel the need to.

LSCustoms

iTrader: (20)

there is a left and right caliper... the difference being, where the bleeder screw is located on the caliper... keeping this in mind, the caliper can be mounted in one of two positions, both on the front side of the diff. on drivers side 10:30 or 7:30... on passenger side 1:30 or 4:30. On a factory disc brake rear end they are mounted at 9/3 (which is obviously not possible)

Most rear brake setups are mounted higher up, when not able to mount at 9 or 3. So I chose to stick with this and this is where they "look" the best. Though mounting them in the lower position would allow you to properly bleed the brakes while fully mounted, this really isnt that big of a deal (as far as being able to bleed the setup)

LSCustoms

iTrader: (20)

Axles back in and rear end cover, etc...



and caliper temp mounted so that i could figure out the brake line routing