marc_w

Okay... I didn't think I'd end up posting one of these, but here I am.

For quite some time, I was convinced I'd be doing a N/A setup. As you can see, I've got a cam and headers already in there. This spring, I was planning on going with AFR 205 heads, and VHP 1.89 rockers. So that's about $3,500, without head-swap materials. ((Would anyone want to take a stab at the power output?)) HP calculators say I'm around 350 before headers. Not sure how accurate that is.

From there, what other mods would be worthwhile? Basically just a intake (filter) kit? Cutouts are not allowed at the track near me. I'll have my 2600 stall going in at some point in the future. I don't think the FAST intake would be worth it for me. I don't want to spray.

Now I'm thinking, $3,500 would get me right near the cost of a base STS kit... and fairly close to the cost of a Radix.

Ever since reading that thread about part throttle driveability - F/I has really started to grow on me. Especially seeing as they're both relatively easy to remove compared to pulling heads. (I'm paranoid about MA emission testing getting more and more strict -- I don't care for 'permanent' mods.)

The thing though, if I went STS - I won't be pushing the setup like most of you are. Not until I get another $3,000 sitting around for a tranny. I'd be looking for quite a basic kit.

My goal is 100% streetable power that's useable at all RPM's. I think the turbo would be awesome for the handfull of heavy towing trips that I do. I love roll-on power that doesn't require downshifting. I love a lot of part throttle power at 2,000rpm that will effortlessly pull you up a steep hill. I'd rather have stump-pulling torque over high RPM horsepower.

What would you guys do?

If I go Radix, I'd keep my headers... correct?

STS, it's probably best to put my manifolds back on?

I know my 210/218 112 cam is not optimal for F/I, but it's only got 2* more overlap compared to the same cam on a more F/I-common 114 LSA. Other F/I truck here are running bigger durations with more overlap. I don't think it's show-stopper, is it? I like my current powerband of 1,900 to 6,000.

I will do all my own wideband tuning.

Bigger injectors will be installed regardless.

marc_w

Side note:

What would it cost me when it's all said and done to get about 5-6PSI with an STS?

BoV - Needed?

IC is not really needed - just nice to have?

Boost controller?

I know nuttin' about turbo's.

greentahoe

iTrader: (2)

I would do the STS kit. I would also go with a few upgrades when you order. The main reasoning behind that is that it allows more power later which is something everyone wants. 100hp isnt as impressive as it sounds. I also think that a stock 4L65 with some servos, a shift kit, and a good cooler will hold up rather well if you arent pounding it at the track every weekend and at every redlight during the week. A FMIC is a great idea IMO. Hot air is not a good thing regardless of how you look at it and the STS system routes nicely to a FMIC. It will make tuning more consistent and less chance of detonation.
Im not sure about the specifics, but I think the STS comes with a wastegate and BOV. I would think it would have to come with a controller too, otherwise you will need to get one. The best part about it in my eyes is the low boost/ high boost settings at the touch of a button. You could run 5-6 pounds around town and once in a while when you want to play, you could set it to 12# with the push of a button

styleandspeed

A set of heads that are done right like some good AFR's will give you more power at every rpm. Not to mention people would look under your hood, and not see a blower, or hear a turbo. It would be much more sleeper. I think that with a good set of heads, stall, CAI, and your current mods you would definately be in the low 13's. If it were me though I would get a ported set of LS6 heads to raise your compression. They would be much cheaper, and are excellent heads. They will also give you lots of usable power at all RPM's and nobody would know that you even had them. I would also bet that if it was tuned right you still wouldn't have any more of a problem passing emissions than you would right now.

Sport Side

iTrader: (6)

I'd go Turbo. It seems to fit your needs better.

Good reasoning with the camshaft. Low overlap grinds, don't require wide seperations to maintain boost.

Actually @ .050
A 114* seperation would have -13 degrees of overlap compared to your 112* seperation with -9 degrees

marc_w

Thanks guys.

It seems as though the turbo is (or can be) all about big midrange torque. I'm not sure I could see similar gains N/A on stock displacement.

marc_w

No kidding... Yeah, just checked that out.

I'm don't quite follow, but it's correct.

Sport Side

iTrader: (6)

I might be wrong, but the accelerated design actually would increase valve overlap @ .004, .006

Take a Comp 216/218 111lsa x-e, high lift
It has 48 degrees of overlap @ .006

The Vinci 212/218 112lsa
It has 52 degrees of overlap @ .004

Those Vinci's might not be the best Boost grinds with their accelerated design. You could have more power with the larger Comp grind @ .200, but maintain minimal overlap @ lower lifts from less duration.

marc_w

Well.

I think I'll be joining the dark side and going FI.

The way I'm looking at it - I've got $1,500 into an exhaust system that gave me maybe 40hp tops... I've got the other minor bolt-ons and airboxes and things to toy with, but it seems as though it's nearly impossible without some radical (valve event wise) cam, to get massive midrange power and torque. Going 'all out' N/A seems to almost always lead to the big gains up in the higher RPM's and flip-flopped hp/tq numbers. Something I'm not totally interested in.

My current plan: Pull entire exhaust system** - sell it. Put money towards a STS purchase. Pull cam again (that really hurts, I love this thing). I'd go with something between the specs of the Lingenfelter GT2 (205/212 .540 116.5) to the VHP 216/224 115. Maybe something custom... I'd ideally like to keep the specs around 210/21* 115-116, but I know nothing about turbo cams. Max RPM would be 6,000.

Not sure on anything about the STS system. I'd have to talk to them about it. I think I'd like an earlier spool in trade for higher RPM power. Emphasis in midrange. Off idle power and gas mileage would be a concern.

No injection yet... just whatever PSI I can pull with fuel system upgrades.

I'll have the winter to hash everything out. Install would ideally take place early spring.


** I feel like a jackass. I just spent 8 hours putting these headers in.

Sport Side

iTrader: (6)

Sounds like a plan.

Good luck. Take your time with it. If you're going to redue the whole setup. Read up, and make sure you get it right.