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Please help. Wiring Q maybe

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Old Apr 12, 2005 | 08:56 AM
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Default Please help. Wiring Q maybe

The last 2 mornings Ive gone out to the garage and my truck is totally dead. I havent had a dead battery since I switched to an Optima about a year ago. When I put the truck in nuetral to push it out my Alky system lights flickers on and off for a bit. I noticed both times that my alky tank went down about a half a tank over night when this happened!! Ive already had the pump replaced due to it leaking about 4 months ago. Ive since siliconed all the fittings and around the pump where it had been leaking.
This leads me to believe that somehow the pump is activating overnight, going through a ton of alky and killing my battery.
The only thing that has changed recently is the install of my LS1 fans. I used Nelson's harness. I also put in a manual switch that shares a ground wire with the LED for the alky kit. I wouldnt think that would have anything to do with it, but Im not an electrician.
Could someone help?? I keep going out to listen to see if the pump is activating, but I dont hear anything. Its a shurflow pump. I guess I may call Matt @ Snow and see if he has any ideas.
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Old Apr 12, 2005 | 09:35 AM
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Sounds like you may have a loop or one circuit is backfeeding into another. Without seeing the exact circuit, I couldnt tell youfor sure though. Another thing, you need to be really careful if you alky kit is pumping alky/h2o into your intake track while it is not running. If it puddles into a cylinder, that is a good way to hydrolock the motor or better yet ventalate a the block or break a piston/rod. Ask RanWalk about his alky kit blunder.
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Old Apr 12, 2005 | 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by BigKID
Sounds like you may have a loop or one circuit is backfeeding into another. Without seeing the exact circuit, I couldnt tell youfor sure though. Another thing, you need to be really careful if you alky kit is pumping alky/h2o into your intake track while it is not running. If it puddles into a cylinder, that is a good way to hydrolock the motor or better yet ventalate a the block or break a piston/rod. Ask RanWalk about his alky kit blunder.
I was worried about that as well. I found no leaks, so the alky mustve gone into the itake tube at least. It was a half a tank! Do you think the sharing the ground wire for the LED which only turns on when the pump is on can somehow provide a signal?? I just dont get it. Ive gone out 5 times in the last hour and fans arent on and no more alky has been dumped (there is a small amount left in there). I also havent heard the pump on. Im lost.
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Old Apr 12, 2005 | 09:58 AM
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Is there a way to put a switch between the controller and the pump so that I can manually allow the pump to be activated. IE when I get out of the truck and park it, I can flip the switch so that there is no way it can get power. Then when I get in to go somewhere I can flip it again so that it can recieve the signal from the controller?
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Old Apr 12, 2005 | 12:46 PM
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Yes, all you have to do is use a relay and switch to interupt the main powersupply to the pump. How do you have the kit activated now if you do not have a switch?
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Old Apr 12, 2005 | 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by BigKID
Yes, all you have to do is use a relay and switch to interupt the main powersupply to the pump. How do you have the kit activated now if you do not have a switch?
It is supposed to activate with the progressive controller that starts spraying at 3psi and progressively sprays more until it hits a full spray on point at 8 psi. That is what has me confused. It isnt supposed to spray until it sees boost and that isnt possible with the engine off .
Where and what kind of switch and relay do I need? Im a retard when It comes to this stuff.
I appreciate the help
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Old Apr 12, 2005 | 02:17 PM
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you could try wiring in a relay using a "hot in start/run" circuit from either the fuse bank under the hood or under the dash, this way the pump would not have power unless the key was turned to the "on" position. all you would need is a $5 dollar 12vdc relay from a parts store some 14ga wire and crimp connectors. grap your chilton's, or whatever, manual, a test light. look through the schematics and using the test light find a circuit that is only hot when the key is in the "on" position. use that circuit to power the pick-up coil of the relay, and then cut the power lead for the pump and splice it into the power contacts of the relay. hope that helps.
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Old Apr 12, 2005 | 07:57 PM
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Gotcha PM
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