Depending on where I have the bung welded in, I'll bend some brake line and add a few tabs to hold it down with some of the cover bolts. Wire encased in steel tube essentially.

From the top of the diff to the cab in will be routed with the brake lines.

Make sense? I hope so, I can barely picture it given my own discription.

 

I was thinking of the same thing because the break line moves with the rear so I would think that that would work good. If I was you I would get a Mag Hytec on eBay cover it all ready has a area to put the censor into.

 

I'd like to......that and a deep aluminum pan with the sensor bung would be how i would complete this project if I wasn't so damn cheap.
See my first post. (and post number 9 by me...)

Thanks for the link.

 

That same seller has the oil pans also

No problem for the link.

 

Here ya go, off-the-shelf stuff and any common DPDT switch will work, so easier to match interior.

 

Thank You! Not what my schematic looked like in my head.
This one is much neater, and labeled much nicer! i appreciate the reply!!!

 

Just a little info for ya, the pressure port on the trans isn't the most accurate place to get trans temp, best off welding a bung into the pan. It will work, as many have done it, just that there are better options

 

I had a bung welded to the back driver side of the transmission pan, no problems reading it yet.

 

I've been reading about the pressure port not being ideal during my research.

It worked well for me on my Caprice, towed many miles with a 3000 9.5" converter. Just trying to save a few holes that I need to drill.

Instead of buying the Autometer bungs for 13 bucks a pop, can't I just weld in one of the adapters that come with the gauge/senders?
Seems like a waste to spend 25+ dollars for two bungs, only to have 6 left over adapters.

Anyone know what the threads are for the diff drain plug?

 

I went with two gauges, one for trans, one for oil/diff. Everything done except the rear diff sender.

One of the bolts holding the oil cooler feed block is stripped. It will not tighten down.

Dealer replaced these lines a few months ago, I want to punch the tech who did this in the face.

I am absolutely positive I did not strip this. Started by hand, and tightened with a 1/4 drive. It never stopped turning.....no unusual resistance going in, or coming out.

Heli coil?

Tap to next size?

It is not leaking......Leave it????

I'm curious to see the rear axle temps, I have no idea what is normal.