Is my AC sys. Charged?
#1
Is my AC sys. Charged?
My Air conditioner worked fine last summer however this summer not cold or even cool.
I attempted to recharge the sys. However it appears to allready be fully charged.
What I did was connect the freeon adjust the dial to ambient temp. then crank up engine w/ AC on max blower on max never pulled the trigger releasing the freeon into sys. Turned engine off when I observed the red extend into the red section of dail.
Please advice an thanks
video here
https://rumble.com/v6u9tu3-is-my-ac-charged.html
My Air conditioner worked fine last summer however this summer not cold or even cool.
I attempted to recharge the sys. However it appears to allready be fully charged.
What I did was connect the freeon adjust the dial to ambient temp. then crank up engine w/ AC on max blower on max never pulled the trigger releasing the freeon into sys. Turned engine off when I observed the red extend into the red section of dail.
Please advice an thanks
video here
https://rumble.com/v6u9tu3-is-my-ac-charged.html
Last edited by thebrain; Jun 3, 2025 at 06:47 PM.
#4
It seems like it either is low on Freon or has a restriction in the system. It goes to a pressure that is much too low when the compressor engages, and when it switches off because of low pressure, it goes up to what appears to be too much pressure. If you add Freon and it keeps doing the same thing, that indicates that you have a restriction.
#5
^ I haven't added any freeon yet. bc when I observed the needle peg into the red thought there was to much freeon an didn't want to overfill causeing an explosion however I haven't recharged in over two summers so it must be leaking out slowely.
I have confirmed the AC drive belt is still attached. maybe I should just slowely add the freeon. additionaly the freeon cans fill tube is so short the can can't be shaken notice how it's laying on the battery.
I have confirmed the AC drive belt is still attached. maybe I should just slowely add the freeon. additionaly the freeon cans fill tube is so short the can can't be shaken notice how it's laying on the battery.
#6
It seems like it either is low on Freon or has a restriction in the system. It goes to a pressure that is much too low when the compressor engages, and when it switches off because of low pressure, it goes up to what appears to be too much pressure. If you add Freon and it keeps doing the same thing, that indicates that you have a restriction.
IIRC the preasure sensor can be jumped to force the compressor to suck in freeon. can't remember how this is done.like could it be so low on freeon that it won't suck in new freeon?
#7
I'll crawl under vehical an see if compressors clugch engauges if it doesnt then do thisHow to jump the AC sensor to force compressor to suck in freeon
AC compressor relay https://www.youtube.com/shorts/ZBqJiWfrA7s
or should I remove oroface inside dryers tube I think it could be in firewall?
AC compressor relay https://www.youtube.com/shorts/ZBqJiWfrA7s
or should I remove oroface inside dryers tube I think it could be in firewall?
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#9
I thought the vans AC compressor was down low on pass. Side like the LS1s.
Now I know it’s on top front driver side just like the 02 an older 5.7 vortex.
I will observe the clutch to see if it engauges, will also physically feel the clutch.
Then procede to replace the known to fail seals.
1.swap new oroface
2.swap fitting on same tube oroface is inside.
3.swap preasure switch O ring or whole PS
4.swap scrader valve inside preasure switch
5.swap scrader valve inside dryer.
How doe’s my plan sound. Sure hope the compressor isn’t falling apart. Bc if it is I’ll replace everything compressor/condenser/lines that connect the two/ dryer/ oroface basicely everything except the evaporator bc the oroface protects it an I don’t want to completely disassemble the whole dash. Hows my plan look.
Evidently these GM seals are known failures.
Now I know it’s on top front driver side just like the 02 an older 5.7 vortex.
I will observe the clutch to see if it engauges, will also physically feel the clutch.
Then procede to replace the known to fail seals.
1.swap new oroface
2.swap fitting on same tube oroface is inside.
3.swap preasure switch O ring or whole PS
4.swap scrader valve inside preasure switch
5.swap scrader valve inside dryer.
How doe’s my plan sound. Sure hope the compressor isn’t falling apart. Bc if it is I’ll replace everything compressor/condenser/lines that connect the two/ dryer/ oroface basicely everything except the evaporator bc the oroface protects it an I don’t want to completely disassemble the whole dash. Hows my plan look.
Evidently these GM seals are known failures.
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