Keepin up with the Jonesin
12-03-2017, 10:43 AM
#11
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Everything has went good on install and first fire startup, couldnt ask for better
I just ran into the first issue, and wanted to see if any of y’all knew or had advice. I have been driving it for break in (roughly 250 miles on fresh rebuild). After driving backroads for a 130 mile roundtrip to a family gathering yesterday, it ran great. Not a problem. It sat and cooled completely off. When i fired it up to run an errand later that evening, it ran good for 15 minutes or so, then went into a ‘reduced engine power’ mode and died while rolling down the road. I pulled over and checked all fluids, full and fine. Cycled the key a couple times and it fired right up. However it will drive, but with no backbone. It has no get up and go, just a mushy feeling. No limp mode showing on display.
the truck got a base tune on it when i first finished the rebuild so I could break it in.
I just ran into the first issue, and wanted to see if any of y’all knew or had advice. I have been driving it for break in (roughly 250 miles on fresh rebuild). After driving backroads for a 130 mile roundtrip to a family gathering yesterday, it ran great. Not a problem. It sat and cooled completely off. When i fired it up to run an errand later that evening, it ran good for 15 minutes or so, then went into a ‘reduced engine power’ mode and died while rolling down the road. I pulled over and checked all fluids, full and fine. Cycled the key a couple times and it fired right up. However it will drive, but with no backbone. It has no get up and go, just a mushy feeling. No limp mode showing on display.
the truck got a base tune on it when i first finished the rebuild so I could break it in.
12-04-2017, 08:50 PM
#14
On The Tree
Thread Starter
@1slow99
Yea. Seems like a good cam, and cheaper than the main companies. I’ve heard they take some Elgin cams and swap them into their boxes and mark the price up. This one is $250 on eBay
Yea. Seems like a good cam, and cheaper than the main companies. I’ve heard they take some Elgin cams and swap them into their boxes and mark the price up. This one is $250 on eBay
12-06-2017, 04:52 PM
#15
Teching In
Join Date: Mar 2012
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Granted you look to be in the south (and thus I wouldn't think it's terribly cold there right now) but still not sure why you wouldn't want to use full synthetic 5w30 and then just change it after a couple hundred miles. I had been stressing over what oil, what RPMs to stay under etc. on my refresh + cam but I have been counseled by more than one person that these hydraulic roller cams don't need as much TLC, so a lot of the oldschool break-in methods needed for flat-tappet cams etc. aren't needed.
What codes did the truck throw when it went into reduced power mode?
What codes did the truck throw when it went into reduced power mode?
12-06-2017, 06:42 PM
#16
On The Tree
Thread Starter
@tremek
I wouldn't run full synthetic on a new rebuild. they say it will not let the rings seat
it has thrown P0101- P0102- p0641- TPS codes- MAF codes (and a 5 volt reference signal code)
hell it even threw a pedal position code at me
today it threw 02 codes- too rich bank 1 and 2 i need to get a tune on this thing
i think this break in (330 miles so far) is over and time to get a good tune
I wouldn't run full synthetic on a new rebuild. they say it will not let the rings seat
it has thrown P0101- P0102- p0641- TPS codes- MAF codes (and a 5 volt reference signal code)
hell it even threw a pedal position code at me
today it threw 02 codes- too rich bank 1 and 2 i need to get a tune on this thing
i think this break in (330 miles so far) is over and time to get a good tune
12-06-2017, 10:22 PM
#17
Teching In
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Again that doesn't make any sense to me - your LQ9 and Gen III motors of that era were coming out the factory with full synthetic - but each to their own.
Very specific break-in additives is maybe one thing, but there's no actual scientific argument for non-synthetic, and that may in fact do more harm than help. I think that's more mythology based on generations-old engines that were and are radically different from anything that's been built in the CNC era.
Myths about synthetic oils | Mobil 1? UK
AAA Spills the Truth on Oil Changes | AAA NewsRoom
etc.
Very specific break-in additives is maybe one thing, but there's no actual scientific argument for non-synthetic, and that may in fact do more harm than help. I think that's more mythology based on generations-old engines that were and are radically different from anything that's been built in the CNC era.
Myths about synthetic oils | Mobil 1? UK
AAA Spills the Truth on Oil Changes | AAA NewsRoom
etc.
12-08-2017, 08:46 PM
#18
On The Tree
Again that doesn't make any sense to me - your LQ9 and Gen III motors of that era were coming out the factory with full synthetic - but each to their own.
Very specific break-in additives is maybe one thing, but there's no actual scientific argument for non-synthetic, and that may in fact do more harm than help. I think that's more mythology based on generations-old engines that were and are radically different from anything that's been built in the CNC era.
Myths about synthetic oils Mobil 1? UK
AAA Spills the Truth on Oil Changes AAA NewsRoom
etc.
Very specific break-in additives is maybe one thing, but there's no actual scientific argument for non-synthetic, and that may in fact do more harm than help. I think that's more mythology based on generations-old engines that were and are radically different from anything that's been built in the CNC era.
Myths about synthetic oils Mobil 1? UK
AAA Spills the Truth on Oil Changes AAA NewsRoom
etc.
12-08-2017, 08:57 PM
#19
On The Tree
Everything has went good on install and first fire startup, couldnt ask for better
I just ran into the first issue, and wanted to see if any of y’all knew or had advice. I have been driving it for break in (roughly 250 miles on fresh rebuild). After driving backroads for a 130 mile roundtrip to a family gathering yesterday, it ran great. Not a problem. It sat and cooled completely off. When i fired it up to run an errand later that evening, it ran good for 15 minutes or so, then went into a ‘reduced engine power’ mode and died while rolling down the road. I pulled over and checked all fluids, full and fine. Cycled the key a couple times and it fired right up. However it will drive, but with no backbone. It has no get up and go, just a mushy feeling. No limp mode showing on display.
the truck got a base tune on it when i first finished the rebuild so I could break it in.
I just ran into the first issue, and wanted to see if any of y’all knew or had advice. I have been driving it for break in (roughly 250 miles on fresh rebuild). After driving backroads for a 130 mile roundtrip to a family gathering yesterday, it ran great. Not a problem. It sat and cooled completely off. When i fired it up to run an errand later that evening, it ran good for 15 minutes or so, then went into a ‘reduced engine power’ mode and died while rolling down the road. I pulled over and checked all fluids, full and fine. Cycled the key a couple times and it fired right up. However it will drive, but with no backbone. It has no get up and go, just a mushy feeling. No limp mode showing on display.
the truck got a base tune on it when i first finished the rebuild so I could break it in.
12-09-2017, 08:53 PM
#20
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Yes I did.
Long story short, after removing intake and triple checking all grounds behind it, buying an oil sender adapter for a mechanical gauge and quadruple checking everything, it was the pcm fighting itself. The tuner told me the torque table was out of whack and had it fixed in 15 minutes.
after driving it and noticing and oil puddle under the truck, i pulled the intake again and found a fitting on the adapter leaking. Fixed that and everything seems ok. Am getting pretty good at removing the intake. Lol
Long story short, after removing intake and triple checking all grounds behind it, buying an oil sender adapter for a mechanical gauge and quadruple checking everything, it was the pcm fighting itself. The tuner told me the torque table was out of whack and had it fixed in 15 minutes.
after driving it and noticing and oil puddle under the truck, i pulled the intake again and found a fitting on the adapter leaking. Fixed that and everything seems ok. Am getting pretty good at removing the intake. Lol