How much can the stock bottom end handle on a 5.3L?
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How much can the stock bottom end handle on a 5.3L?
How much are you guys running? And would an LQ4 or LQ9 be able to handle more? My goals with a turbo are 600rwhp, but not without boring it out and a built motor. I just want to know how much it can handle as is.
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Originally Posted by 2000 SILVERADO
How much are you guys running? And would an LQ4 or LQ9 be able to handle more? My goals with a turbo are 600rwhp, but not without boring it out and a built motor. I just want to know how much it can handle as is.
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Originally Posted by greentahoe
You could always have the 5.3 bored to accept off the shelf forged 5.7 pistons.
Originally Posted by greentahoe
Well maybe 700 with the bigger turbo
Last edited by 2000 SILVERADO; 04-30-2006 at 12:40 PM.
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Originally Posted by 2000 SILVERADO
That's what I was thinking, but that would cost alot of money wouldn't it? I would have to pay someone to do all of the installing (forged internals, boring, ect.). The only thing I could do myself is the turbo.
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Originally Posted by 2000 SILVERADO
How much are you guys running? And would an LQ4 or LQ9 be able to handle more? My goals with a turbo are 600rwhp, but not without boring it out and a built motor. I just want to know how much it can handle as is.
Check my sig. Its a stock 5.3 with 166k on it. Tuning and fuel are the main issue.
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with a turbo i dont think rod bolts are required. there is some great info in that book maximum boost that tells you why the rods/rodbolts dont see nearly as much load with a turbo set up as they do in other set ups. the pistons are probably the weakest link. with a dead on tune i bet a bone stock 5.3 would handle 600rwhp for a long time. you would need valve springs but thats about it.
i was running over 600rwhp with a 6.0 that had nothing but valve springs, head studs and rod bolts. i ran that for most of a season and ended up blowing it up with a nitrous misshap. ahh, i think i had a cam too.
i was running over 600rwhp with a 6.0 that had nothing but valve springs, head studs and rod bolts. i ran that for most of a season and ended up blowing it up with a nitrous misshap. ahh, i think i had a cam too.
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Huh, I never read about that part (I've read most of the book now, maximum boost). It's got lots of good info. Thanks for the replys. BTW, how much boost are you running jcfreak?
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#8
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the book talks of peak load on the rods being right at the top of the exhaust stroke when the piston is changing direction with no downward force on it,it trys to fly out of the motor and the rod and bolts have to pull it back. you can reduce this peak load on the rod by having exhaust back presure pushing on the top of the piston. on a na set up back presure hurts power so you do what you can to reduce it but with a turbo it is just part of the game. also with most turbo set ups people dont shift as high. rpms are what kills most rods.
between lower shift points and the back presure pushing back on the piston when it is under max load the peak load on the rod(rod bolts espesialy) is actualy less with a turbo.
there was also some info about how the tq is developed over a longer time rather than a high peek. i dont remember what that part of the book was about. i might have to go read up on it again.
between lower shift points and the back presure pushing back on the piston when it is under max load the peak load on the rod(rod bolts espesialy) is actualy less with a turbo.
there was also some info about how the tq is developed over a longer time rather than a high peek. i dont remember what that part of the book was about. i might have to go read up on it again.
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Originally Posted by parish8
you can reduce this peak load on the rod by having exhaust back presure pushing on the top of the piston.