Anyone who is more expericne with these. I still not understand a compare a losse up and tight. Some people not like too tight or loose up. I was trying to research high stall with right one with 3000 stall but I need to know about loose or tight. I like to keep tight like as stock one. I not have a experince with those before. I have tried research here some and I see people say about that issues. I still not get that right infomation.

 

A tight stall will move the truck well below the actual stall rating and then flash up to around the rating when you floor it. A looser converter has to get the RPM closer to the stall rating to get the truck moving. That's the easiest explanation.

 

im curious the people who most like run loose or tight? I wonder the stock converter is tight or what?

 

A tighter stall feels better in traffic. My Yank 3600 sits around 2000-2300 stoplight to stoplight unless I go half throttle where it sits a little over 3k. If I was looser and it was over 3k all the time I would hate it. A yank 3600 is perfect to me.

 

Stock stalls woud be considered "tight", like said because they require little throttle to start moving the vehicle.

Someone running a "tight" stall is probably doing so for ease of driving around. Someone with a "loose" stall is most likely going to be racing more then driving.

 

Wtf are you saying?

 

The tightness of the converter depends on the actual size. So a 245mm converter is much looser than a 278mm. The bigger the verter, the tighter it feels. You can still have a stall speed above 3000rpm in a tighter/larger converter but not much over 3200rpm.

I daily drive a 245mm/9.5" converter with a 3200 stall speed. Personally I dont like how loose it is. It's great for drag racing but I drive in traffic all day, not 1/4 mile runs. I would love to switch the thing to a 278mm 3200 stall sometime soon. That is just my personal preference. A lot of guys like the loose feel of a smaller converter. I would recommend driving something with a smaller diameter converter so I can see and feel the difference.

 

lol, i said the same thing.

X2 Im with this guy.

I daily driver a 4000 stall thats 9.5" I mean thats tiny for a heavy SUV & 4l80e. My stall converter guy, built the stall converter super TIGHT all because the weight of my truck, and knowing I wanted a 9.5 and 4k rpm stall. IMO he did a excellent job, as its tight with lots of manners, gets moving at 1200 rpm and gets looser than a goose when its play time. But with a smaller diameter converter the converter will want to switch out of OD quicker do to that fact, that makes it LOOSER. It will be alot quicker to getting you into the power curve. I think now that I run 4.88 gears it complements my 9.5" stall better.

 

Found this in an old CC article. Still doesn't explain flash or weight very well but it is a basic explanation.
Most of your torque converter companies say their "off the shelf" converters work good for 90% of their customers. Thats is true but, a custom converter built for your engine rpm range, transmission, rear gears, tire size, vehicle weight is a blast to drive.

True Stall: The rpm the engine cannot exceed when the driveline is locked. The most accurate way to determine true stall is by locking First gear and Reverse with a transbrake and observing engine rpm at wide open throttle (WOT).

Flash Stall: The rpm the engine “flashes” to when launched from rest at WOT. A converter will often briefly flash to a higher rpm than its true stall speed.

Brake Stall: The rpm the engine cannot exceed with the brakes locked and the driveshaft not spinning. Brake stall isn’t usually an accurate measuring tool since the engine often overpowers the wheels before the true stall speed is reached.

 

Yea, ill say my loose 3600 convert is perfect for 20 mile rolls ...truck definitely leaps!