Gordy M

iTrader: (2)

A little long winded but still over simplified, here are some things to consider when adding CAI.

The advantage of a cold air set-up is in warmer weather. In a NA engine like a 5.3 you can only put so much air into the engine so you object is to put in cold, denser air in warm weather. In a stock or bolt-on engine get the opening of the intake as far from engine/radiator heat is the ideal. The next step is to have the MAF as close to the source of incoming air and the final step is to recalibrate the PCM to maximize the cooler, denser intake of air. Adding CAI without tuning give you minimal results or in some cases negative results.

The PCM came from the factory with a preset formula of air, temp, fuel, timing, etc. Also in the PCM is firmware that interprets those inputs. While you are not going to change the firmware you can modify the data points of the air, temp, etc to maximize the gain from adding cold air. Go to the drag strip to measure results or log a good cycle of driving events to measure the difference.

budhayes3

iTrader: (19)

I'm sure that the CAI that you linked to will fit, but as mentioned, I doubt that you'll notice any substantial gains from it. As TX Tahoe Z71 referred to, I have the Volant with ram air also, and I didn't feel diddly from it...I didn't notice any gains from the K&N FIPK that I had on there before the Volant either though, just a lot of noise LOL. If you want to build a dual ram air for the cool factor though, you can get parts from Home Depot or Lowe's, as well as siliconeintakes dot com. Personally, I'd go with a speed density tune though, as having the MAF so close to the engine will lead to a heat soaked MAF which will definitely have a negative effect on performance

rel3rd

iTrader: (42)

Gordy M: No worries about being long winded as I can ramble on with the best of them, lol. My present intake setup is an Airaid intake tube, coupled to a self-modified stock airbox/airbox tray (proven to work in multiple datalogs), and a Fram Airhog filter (chosen due to both price and clean-ability since I work in dusty/dirty environment). The Airaid intake tube is severely limited to being any sort of advantage, since in stock form, it is flat near the throttle body to clear stock fan shroud. Since that's all gone now, I just want smoother airflow which darn near any setup, homemade or aftermarket, will take care of. As far as re-tuning, that's a non-issue since I have HPTuners setup.

budhayes3: Hey Billy, I gotta admit, the dual inlet setup sounded much cooler than the effort required to make a NICE one could justify for me. I'd have to have a much more powerful engine setup than I have to even consider it again...but it was fun thinking about it.

I studied the whole situation a good bit at work today and here is what I decided to do...for now, lol. Going to keep it very simple...

Since I already know, without a doubt, that my modified stock airbox works well, I am leaving that as-is. The MAF meter outlet is basically 3.5" and the throttle body inlet is 4". I found a nice 4" elbow and I have plenty of 4" exhaust pipe to use as my straight tube from elbow to MAF meter, although I may use PVC. It'll need a slight bend right at the MAF end of the tube, so at that connection I plan to use a 4" to 3.5" flexible bellows to connect with.

Done deal and total cost of only whatever the bellows costs, since I don't have that yet. I found one here for $21.94:

http://store.yahoo.com/yhst-62818268114394/40r35sl.html

But shipping is a bit pricey at $13.90, although a $35 intake setup ain't bad, and I'm pretty sure I could recoup that by selling the $99 Airaid tube I won't need anymore.

Only thing I haven't decided on, is how to best re-route the upper radiator hose. If it's laying on top of the intake tube, it'll defeat the whole purpose, but it looks like it could be cut shorter and turned so it will be away from the intake tube...to be continued...

budhayes3

iTrader: (19)

Sounds like a good plan man, looking forward to the finished product Check out the website that I referenced in my last post, they have 4" to 3.5" reducers for $12.99 plus shipping, and they come in black, blue, and red As for the tube, I prefer plastic over metal as it dissipates heat faster, and is lighter FWIW. I wish that I had the presence of mind to order an 05+ Volant, or another system that was made for an efan equipped truck, and has the intake elbow with a smoother, larger bend...oh well.

rel3rd

iTrader: (42)

Thanks Billy. I somehow read right through the site info you posted. Thought I was just getting old and senile...now I guess I'm half blind too, LOL.

I have to go to Lowes today or tomorrow anyway for some home project materials, so I'll see what they have as far as pvc tubing. Hopefully, I can find one with 4" OD so I can get this setup buttoned up.

edit* Just checked out that site. Very good prices and selection. I think I may use a 45° reducer at the airbox since it's at a pretty decent angle. Just need a foot or so of 4" tubing and some clamps.

KleenHall

plumbing parts on your truck is ghetto
truck intakes are not cold air, they are under the hood IN the engine compartment separated by a metal sheild

ram air is usless aswell considering its just a fancy airpump pushing youre truck
if you need to ram air then get a turbo

youre gonna waste tons of money at the hardware store when you can get the ebay intake for cheap

rel3rd

iTrader: (42)

Aren't you the modded stock airbox hater cuz your air filter got wet when you run through big puddles at 40mph, dude? <- lol

Anyway, not sure how expensive the hardware stores are over there, but over here, if I choose to use PVC, it'll cost about $4 for a foot of it...or free if I use the 4" steel tubing I already have. I already ordered the 45° rubber reducer to connect to the MAF meter at a shipped cost of $24, and I already have the 90° rubber elbow to connect to the throttle body. I also already have all the clamps.

So...

Worse case scenario...I spend $28 on my cold air setup.
Best case scenario...I spend a total of $24 on it.
Not a "waste of tons of money" by any means...especially when you consider the Airaid tube I now use, will be sold, surely for more than enough to cover either cost.
So actually, in the end, my smooth flowing, functional cold air induction kit will be free.

Looking into the outlet end of the Airaid tube that was designed for a truck like mine with fan shroud, there's no possible way that any smooth transitioned 4" setup could be anything but a benefit. We all know smoother airflow = better efficiency, period.

Obviously, since you assumed I was even thinking of an Ebay "cold air kit", you did not read my posts in this thread. I am using a modified stock airbox, which draws incoming air solely from the bottom, which is 100% separated from any underhood air, unlike any Ebay, K&N, Spectre, etc. "cold air kits".

I already know, through multiple datalogs, that my modded stock airbox works as it should, either keeping IAT's slightly above ambient air temperature when idling or slow cruising, to actually being cooler than ambient temps at WOT, long before my truck is done pulling through the gears.

KleenHall

im the guy but the puddle story came from a punk little kid, you mis interpreted it from what others said
i speak from experience, i voiced my opinion and well you see who didnt like it,lol i guess you have to be a jack hole to handle 20 million dollar pieces of equipment right?

my local hardware stores dont carry 4"pvc, you can get aluminum peices for pretty cheap, then weld them up or steel
i just hate ABS intakes, they look like crap, its one thing to be free and temporary but how many laughs would you get
how much can you actually improve the intake ?

duh, any intake would do the same, even without one

rel3rd

iTrader: (42)

Evidently so, lol. There's no mistake of who said modified airboxes were stupid because YOUR air filter got wet. That was YOU. You tried debating with everyone who has proven positive results in that thread, and were finally asked by the OP to stay out of his thread...coincidence?

https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...1&postcount=31

Quote:

Originally Posted by KleenHall

i would not open the bottom of the air box like rel3rd, one puddle will have the filter wet my AEM gets wet when it rains, even with the metal tray under it, yes i left it there to help protect from water, my previous truck i had the tray out and it got wet, and i live in san diego!

I'd appreciate you keeping your close minded opinions to yourself when it's one of my threads. Every "technical" post/reply I've ever seen you make, you seem to be looking for an argument. I've been getting paid to be mechanical for 30 years now. My guess is you haven't even been breathing that long. Your replies give that away.

You really need help in the reading comprehension department. I've said, in this very thread, no less than twice, that I have 4" exhaust tubing that I can use. Any "jackhole" would know that since an engine is indeed an air pump, anything that you can do to smooth or otherwise help the airflow into it WILL help it make power, period. Anything that helps airflow is an improvement. For whatever reason, you do not grasp that fact.



You've proven my opinion of your knowledge, or lack thereof. Restrictions or impediments in air or fluid flow, cause HEAT. Anyone with even basic mechanical knowledge understands that concept, as it is very simple. Anything that smooths flow, helps the end product. It's a very simple theory.

PLEASE...Go away.

please...just....

.

Gordy M

iTrader: (2)

Some supercharger companies recommend reversing the hose of additional clearance.