battery relocation question...
07-21-2008, 03:00 PM
#31
well...didn't take pics, but...I did finish and it still runs...
here's how I did it...
parts used:
1. battery tray from gm #15246518
2. aluminum lug terminal from Home Depot like this
3. 6' made up cable from a car stereo shop...1/0 gauge with ring terminals both ends
4. 2ea side post terminal bolts
5. 1/2" cable clamps
>detach positive and negative battery cables from battery
>remove upper support brackets from fenders to firewall near hood hinges...driver side bracket will be re-installed later
>remove lower support bracket on passenger side from fender to firewall by a/c accumulator
>install aux. battery tray in exact location of lower support bracket using existing hardware
>remove battery from driver side location by removing the support bracket above battery and the hold-down bolt on the electrical center side of battery
>re-install battery onto new aux. battery tray using existing hold-down and bolt...note that bolt is a tight fit under the a/c line...a short piece of hose, split and slid around a/c line will protect line from damage from bolt head
>remove original negative battery cables from driver side of engine block and frame @ front bumper
>re-install original negative cable to battery using one new side post terminal bolt
>attach the two loose ends of the negative cable similar to original grounding locations...I attached the smaller cable to the brake line support bracket bolt on frame by drilling the ring terminal hole larger to fit and attaching the larger cable to the front of the passenger side head using a 3/8"-16 bolt
>remove electrical center lid and housing
>cut off original positive side post terminal from the two cables attached to it
>remove the short, smaller gauge cable that feeds the electrical center...this cable will not be re-used
>attach the larger cable (which routes through the red junction box and the other end feeds the starter) to the electrical center using the aluminum lug from Home Depot
>re-install the electrical center housing and lid
>re-install the driver side support brackets, one near the hood hinge and the other one that was above the battery in its original location
>open red junction box that is inline on the larger cable between the electrical center and the starter and remove the nut contained within
>attach one end of the new 6', 1/0 cable to the junction box stud using the removed nut to secure
>close and snap shut the lid to the red junction box...OR...wrap with electrical tape if you break the lid's hinge like I did
>secure the other end of the 1/0 cable to the positive side of the battery using the other new side post terminal bolt
double check your work and remove all tools and supplies before attempting to crank truck...
if all is good, route the 1/0 cable along the firewall / cowl with the 1/2" cable clamps, securing w/ self-tapping screws
here's how I did it...
parts used:
1. battery tray from gm #15246518
2. aluminum lug terminal from Home Depot like this
3. 6' made up cable from a car stereo shop...1/0 gauge with ring terminals both ends
4. 2ea side post terminal bolts
5. 1/2" cable clamps
>detach positive and negative battery cables from battery
>remove upper support brackets from fenders to firewall near hood hinges...driver side bracket will be re-installed later
>remove lower support bracket on passenger side from fender to firewall by a/c accumulator
>install aux. battery tray in exact location of lower support bracket using existing hardware
>remove battery from driver side location by removing the support bracket above battery and the hold-down bolt on the electrical center side of battery
>re-install battery onto new aux. battery tray using existing hold-down and bolt...note that bolt is a tight fit under the a/c line...a short piece of hose, split and slid around a/c line will protect line from damage from bolt head
>remove original negative battery cables from driver side of engine block and frame @ front bumper
>re-install original negative cable to battery using one new side post terminal bolt
>attach the two loose ends of the negative cable similar to original grounding locations...I attached the smaller cable to the brake line support bracket bolt on frame by drilling the ring terminal hole larger to fit and attaching the larger cable to the front of the passenger side head using a 3/8"-16 bolt
>remove electrical center lid and housing
>cut off original positive side post terminal from the two cables attached to it
>remove the short, smaller gauge cable that feeds the electrical center...this cable will not be re-used
>attach the larger cable (which routes through the red junction box and the other end feeds the starter) to the electrical center using the aluminum lug from Home Depot
>re-install the electrical center housing and lid
>re-install the driver side support brackets, one near the hood hinge and the other one that was above the battery in its original location
>open red junction box that is inline on the larger cable between the electrical center and the starter and remove the nut contained within
>attach one end of the new 6', 1/0 cable to the junction box stud using the removed nut to secure
>close and snap shut the lid to the red junction box...OR...wrap with electrical tape if you break the lid's hinge like I did
>secure the other end of the 1/0 cable to the positive side of the battery using the other new side post terminal bolt
double check your work and remove all tools and supplies before attempting to crank truck...
if all is good, route the 1/0 cable along the firewall / cowl with the 1/2" cable clamps, securing w/ self-tapping screws
Last edited by Superado; 07-21-2008 at 10:46 PM.
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