i know when i was getting all my tranny's rebuilt, that last sentence out of the shop owners mouth was, take it easy for a while. he had me scared to go half throttle. then again, taking it easy landed me back into his shop several more times too, so who knows. i would make him replace the tranny altogether if it goes again. no since in finding new crap wrong everytime

 

NO .. that's exactly what you want. Tire slip equals burnt time in the 1/4. You gotta think, that shifting hard slams the **** out of all those parts on the inside of the tranny. They get the **** slammed out of them as it is now ... if you go adding washers to it making it shift harder, then it slams them with even more force which is what breaks steel parts, splines, and shafts.

You want the quickest shift possible without barking the tires. That would be ideal.

I just installed the Transgo kit in mine. I drilled the small holes, except for the 3rd gear hole, I did the medium there. I used 1 washer and would pull it off if the pan were to be removed. If I had 2 in there like the instructions called for, I'd pull the pan to yank both of them out.

My z71 had an $1800 worth of aftermarket parts in it. The guy put billet servos in it, all kevlar and kolene steels. It would try and get sideways with you on the 1-2 shift if it were in a turn. That tranny didn't last 3k miles. After he put it all back together, he used 1 washer. It still shifted hard as hell, to hard I think cause it still barked the tires. The dumb **** used the same clutches, which had the metal shavings embedded in them and it ended up slipping in 2nd.

Another example of people that can't build a 4L60

 

I did not like the harshness of the washers either when using the billet servos. My shifts are still nice, quick, and firm at WOT.

From the sounds of it, you blew up the input drum. To be expected at it is made of aluminum with a steel shaft to it.

Ya know if someone had access to a CNC facility they could make a killing making billet input/output shafts, steel input drum, billet reaction carrier shaft, and steel sun gear reaction shell. I wonder if there is room to make the input drum longer for more clutches. Like 1/2"??

 

"I did not like the harshness of the washers either when using the billet servos. My shifts are still nice, quick, and firm at WOT. "

I was using you as my benchmark. I was thinking since I had the vette servos and the TT3000 I figured it would have been right on course. It isn't bad at all, I think the TQM makes it feel worse than it is. You can see the truck nose dive and then kick way back when it shifts.

 

yeah i see what you me about the washers. i was not suggesting putting more in, just firming the shifts up because i can barely feel it shift. allmost as if it where stock. and yes you would definately love not having TM, i have none in mine and it actually picks the nose of the truck up when it shifts, or used to. depends on how the trans wants to act. is there a break in for this trans to start shifting right. im thinking that the seals need to set before it will shift right. not that im complaining just thought it could be a tad bit firmer with out barking the tires.

 

Everything I've heard about that is it will soften, but that was by the same dood that built my **** trans I had.

 

so then are there stock washers already in there now? so i would be able to get them taken out when i get the TC, and servo's get put in?

 

Ya know, after I removed the TqMgt...it seemed to me that the shifts became smoother/cleaner. I know that sounds odd, but I am a firm believer that the massive amounts of TqMgt and lack of fluid flow to the 3-4 pack cause all the 4L60E problems. The trans tries not to shift and I believe that causes way too much heat build up (slow shifts = heat; heat = death for auto). Sorta like it is hesistating/slipping due to the computer stepping in.

 

There are no washers in the valve body stock. The washers come with the TransGo PSK-4L60E shift kit.

 

ohhhh...ok.