Yukon Down, AWD delete, headers, converter etc...
#32
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Recently discovered some pitting on the chrome wheels. I think it was a combination of lack of maintenance/upkeep and cheap wheels. The chinese tires were also dry rotting I guess just due to age cause they still have a ton of tread. Found these local for a steal so I scooped them up. Same size as before 305/40/22.
#33
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I really dig that truck, it looks damn good lowered on those wheels. I know some people think it's silly to drop weight on a truck, well they did when I did it on mine. Losing weight is losing weight and it all adds up.
As for yall talking about the hubs... there are 2 styles one requires an axle to be there and one does not. I found this out after arguing with a customer and telling him his would not work on a 2wd and he insisted they would. 1/4 of a mile up the road his wheels ended up in his fenders and shoved the fenders into the doors. It was on a loaded down 1 ton truck.
The way you know is by looking at the back side. And like you said it looks like 1 piece. The ones that don't require the axle to be there have the rear side of the hub rolled up and around the back of the bearing race on the back side. If you look close you will see the rear part is rolled. The style that requires and axle to be there is the old school way where the hub is just pressed into the bearing and you can see the shoulder of the hub protruding through and not rolled up and around the back of the bearing.
This one will work without an axle there, and will stay together
This one will come apart without an axle there
As for yall talking about the hubs... there are 2 styles one requires an axle to be there and one does not. I found this out after arguing with a customer and telling him his would not work on a 2wd and he insisted they would. 1/4 of a mile up the road his wheels ended up in his fenders and shoved the fenders into the doors. It was on a loaded down 1 ton truck.
The way you know is by looking at the back side. And like you said it looks like 1 piece. The ones that don't require the axle to be there have the rear side of the hub rolled up and around the back of the bearing race on the back side. If you look close you will see the rear part is rolled. The style that requires and axle to be there is the old school way where the hub is just pressed into the bearing and you can see the shoulder of the hub protruding through and not rolled up and around the back of the bearing.
This one will work without an axle there, and will stay together
This one will come apart without an axle there
#37
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Long story short, this 60e has been fighting me again. It's always had a harsh 1/2 shift, so like a clever hptooner I took some pressure out. It worked really well for about 100 miles. Then 2nd starting slipping. I added the pressure back, it stopped slipping after another 100 miles, harsh shifting came back, and i serviced the trans and found metal shrapnel. DD went down and I was forced to drive it everyday, it lasted two weeks then this........again. Same thing, broke on a wot 2/3 shift getting on the onramp. Rev limiter, all neutrals.
Have this beauty sitting here, fresh from the junkyard, and got lucky again, its been rebuilt.
Cant leave well enough alone...
The parts list: BTR stage3 truck cam, springs, pushrods, Melling 10295 oil pump, Cloyes LS2 chain/sprockets, Circle D converter (same spec as before), Nelson 80e adapter harness, 32 spline yoke, junkyard 80e, HD2 kit to be installed, Derale deep pan. No more 60e BS for me.
Have this beauty sitting here, fresh from the junkyard, and got lucky again, its been rebuilt.
Cant leave well enough alone...
The parts list: BTR stage3 truck cam, springs, pushrods, Melling 10295 oil pump, Cloyes LS2 chain/sprockets, Circle D converter (same spec as before), Nelson 80e adapter harness, 32 spline yoke, junkyard 80e, HD2 kit to be installed, Derale deep pan. No more 60e BS for me.