parks450

iTrader: (18)

Sent you a pm 01ssreda4

01ssreda4

iTrader: (87)

So I noticed when loaded these djm springs are a little on the soft side. The stockers even with with the auto leveling not working still handled load well. I knew I needed to address this. I inquired about an air spring kit for lowered vehicles and they told me I need to measure. Once I got my measurement I ordered a custom fit kit for the rear coil springs. I figured it would be a good time to retire the probably original 200k mile shocks also.





Here is a pic of the stock shocks with the blown out air bladders plus the compressor that was mouted to the framerail.



Here is the rear end sagging, and the new air spring helper installed.



I routed the lines, T'd them together and ran it to a schrader valve i installed near the hitch. They fill up really quick with the shop compressor, think bycicle tire quick.



Driving/Towing results to come.

kaze_v8

Im not sure how you ran the 4WD hubs without issues.

I tried the same thing on my AWD SS, by removing the font axles, and i didnt even make it a couple miles before everything up front collapsed.
My wheels werent able to roll at all

01ssreda4

iTrader: (87)

No clue, ive driven a thousand miles on them with no issue. They are not original, they are timken replacements, which was the OE supplier but maybe something changed along the way I dunno.

kaze_v8

Hmm, crazy.
I first thought, the 2wd and 4wd hubs werent mich different from a visual point of view, and when i tried it, i had several ppl give me crap about it lol.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (87)

So I decided I wanted a little more performance, and towing prowess. I ordered some blue box Motive 4.30 gears, part number GM10-430 and a Ratech rebuild kit. I also ordered a Ratech solid pinion spacer. I decided a new cover would be nice also.



Motive gears and cover.



Opened it up and found an open differential. I wasn't too thrilled about this, I figured it had the g80 locking diff. Only thing I can figure is because it was full time awd they skipped the locking diff.



Found a buddy who had a g80 sitting in his garage across town. So I drove over and got it. Here I was passing The Strand Theatre, it is an old and decorative building. Apparently I was missing the concert.



Here's the g80 and the stock diff:



Basically there are two bearing sizes for these diffs. The problem is its not just the diffs that are different its the actual housing that's machined bigger. So the deal is you have a small bearing that mates with some diffs and housings, and a larger bearing that mates with other diffs and housings. You dont know what you have until you measure it. The s10 the g80 came out of has the small bearing, and my housing is machined for the larger bearing, and they dont make a bearing that will make it work. So, back to open diff I go. I set the gears up for those interested at 10 pinion preload with no seal, 20 with seal, and 30 with carrier and backlash was about 5/6. I used a 40 shim under the pinion bearing and the pattern was perfectly centered and egg shaped, no hard lines. I was very happy with how these gears went together. I did have to bend the stock panhard bar just a tad to clear the cover.



Driving impressions: light throttle acceleration is very easy, motor never works hard, the converter tightened up its manners and feels really close to stock at light throttle. Hwy cruise it accelerates easily without unlocking the converter. And the little bit Ive rolled into the throttle the rpms climb really quick. Cruise rpm is about 2500 @ 80, and climbs up pretty quick from there if you increase speed. The truck is on 31 inch tires.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (87)

Finally got to tow with the new bags and gears, much much better. It controlled the trailer well and accelerated with ease. Only got two passes for the night....



I noticed over some swooping type bumps that the front had a little less control then I liked. The good news is I have had new parts on the shelf waiting for a while. I figured, well, time to wipe the dust off them and get them installed.



Part numbers for upper balljoints, lower balljoints, outer tie rods, and shocks.



Right now Im lowered on the stock keys, and they are basically at the lowest setting. The height is ok but I hate that there is no more adjustment, I wouldnt have minded another 1/2 lower. So I bought these 2" drop spindles a while back. The idea is to install them, then be able to raise the keys back up so I have some room to fine tune.



Going for an alignment soon. At 200k miles the balljoints/tie rods were original and surprisingly had no slack in them. The shocks were still functioning within reason also. The reason for replacement is the boot recently deteriorated and started throwing grease inside the wheel. I did notice the swaybar end links had slack in them so I will be ordering them soon.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (87)

I realized I never put up a pic of the trans cooler setup. I had pics of the brackets I made in detail and somehow the pics vanished.



Whoops!!!!



Broken input drum on the 4l60e.



So since the truck is down for a bit, remember i put the air lift bags on the rear with a tire valve filler? I wanted something i could air up and down from the drivers seat. So I bought their gauge, and a compressor and lines, check valve etc etc. I needed somewhere to put it and didnt want it up by the windshield. So I took the traction control and trans cooler fan switch and moved them down to where the 6 disc changer used to sit, and made a new panel there for it.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (87)

Whoops. Destroyed input drum and clutch pack.

turboal1

An S10 rear is 7,50/7.58 a Silverado is 8.50/8.65
depending on the years. so the G80 will use smaller
bearings. due to a it's smaller size.