Yank 2600 stall
#11
Haven't had mine long enough to see yet. When you first get a higher stall converter you will probably try it out a lot at first...lol So your mileage will go down. I think some tighten up a little with miles. Mileage with be the same on highway of course because of the lock up. I expect to lose 1-2 mpg in town though. Just have to see, depends on how I drive.
#12
dont waste your're time and $$ with a 2600 stall unless it's a cheap trailblazer stall. I think you can get them to flash pretty high on some good setups. Other than that go for at least a 3000 stall if anything. I was looking into a 2600-3000 stall for my turbo setup, but I'm definitely going with something at least a 3200 after driving it a knowing the potential of a bigger stall on the truck.
#13
i just installed a 2600 yank bout 3 weeks ago,,,,,,,,and as parish stated on a post i bragged about ,,,,,,,,,,,and i quote "your gonna want the 3000",,,,,and i do,,,,,,,,,,,the 2600 is no slouch,,,driving capability is great,,,no real mpg loss,,but definetally get a cooler,,,,,i got the 24000 gross b and m super cooler,,,,,,works bitchin,,,,,,,,but if your asking my opinion,,,,,,spend the extra hundred bucks,,get the 3000
jason in cali
jason in cali
#14
I've had a Yank 2600 sitting in my basement for well over a year now. I'm still up in the air about putting it in.
Okay, so my stock converter will brake to about 1,800-1,900 - and it flashes to 2,100 at the strip. What will the 2600 behave like?
I'm still considering going with a Yank 3K, or a Vig triple-disk 2600-2800, but I tow ~5,000lbs about 500 miles a year and I DO_NOT want the TCC lock/unlock to feel like a complete gear change. (IE: Not talking about the engagement smoothness, but the RPM change between lock and unlock.)
Okay, so my stock converter will brake to about 1,800-1,900 - and it flashes to 2,100 at the strip. What will the 2600 behave like?
I'm still considering going with a Yank 3K, or a Vig triple-disk 2600-2800, but I tow ~5,000lbs about 500 miles a year and I DO_NOT want the TCC lock/unlock to feel like a complete gear change. (IE: Not talking about the engagement smoothness, but the RPM change between lock and unlock.)
#15
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,288
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From: Somewhere between Auburn, AL and Columbus, GA
My brother has a 2003 Silverado SS and w/in the last week he had asms, comp cam and yank 3000 installed. We got it out of the shop yesterday and he is still running the stock tune. We pulled onto a small road by our house and i told him to try it out(i was besided him in my truck) He stallled it up to 2000 or so and punched it...Needless to say, i was now a believer in stall converters. I think that is one of the best mods someone could ever do.. His truck didnt hesitate or anything, it just blew off the line and kept pulling all the way to the stock shift points. About the towing, he never tows anything so its not really an issue at all but i can see how it would be a little annoying to tow with a stall that was too big, and i think the TT3000 would have to be about the limit.
#16
when saying the stalls drive like stock, do you mean it drives like stock when locked up? thats about all i feel like when it was stock, because normal daily traffic light to traffic light driving is a little more pedal, which is louder and to me, now that i've had it awhile, its wasting more gas. my .02
dont forget when buying a stall to get the dragradials or something better, i now dont have traction even at 25 rolls on street tires.
dont forget when buying a stall to get the dragradials or something better, i now dont have traction even at 25 rolls on street tires.
#17
Originally Posted by rgvsierra
when saying the stalls drive like stock, do you mean it drives like stock when locked up? thats about all i feel like when it was stock, because normal daily traffic light to traffic light driving is a little more pedal, which is louder and to me, now that i've had it awhile, its wasting more gas. my .02
dont forget when buying a stall to get the dragradials or something better, i now dont have traction even at 25 rolls on street tires.
dont forget when buying a stall to get the dragradials or something better, i now dont have traction even at 25 rolls on street tires.
I agree w/you. His truck feels stock if you barely tap the gas, as soon as you get on the pedal at all the rpms shoot up..We made the trip in my brothers truck from our parents house(near auburn, al) all the way up to athens, ga yesterday with the new cam/asms/stall all on the stock tune...Talk about burniing some gas. Never had a SES light the entire trip and there is absolutely no cam surge at all, even when the verter locks up under 1500.
#18
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Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Somewhere between Auburn, AL and Columbus, GA
Originally Posted by rgvsierra
when saying the stalls drive like stock, do you mean it drives like stock when locked up? thats about all i feel like when it was stock, because normal daily traffic light to traffic light driving is a little more pedal, which is louder and to me, now that i've had it awhile, its wasting more gas. my .02
dont forget when buying a stall to get the dragradials or something better, i now dont have traction even at 25 rolls on street tires.
dont forget when buying a stall to get the dragradials or something better, i now dont have traction even at 25 rolls on street tires.
I agree w/you. His truck feels stock if you barely tap the gas, as soon as you get on the pedal at all the rpms shoot up..We made the trip in my brothers truck from our parents house(near auburn, al) all the way up to athens, ga yesterday with the new cam/asms/stall all on the stock tune...Talk about burniing some gas. Never had a SES light the entire trip and there is absolutely no cam surge at all, even when the verter locks up under 1500.
#19
Originally Posted by marc_w
I've had a Yank 2600 sitting in my basement for well over a year now. I'm still up in the air about putting it in.
Okay, so my stock converter will brake to about 1,800-1,900 - and it flashes to 2,100 at the strip. What will the 2600 behave like?
I'm still considering going with a Yank 3K, or a Vig triple-disk 2600-2800, but I tow ~5,000lbs about 500 miles a year and I DO_NOT want the TCC lock/unlock to feel like a complete gear change. (IE: Not talking about the engagement smoothness, but the RPM change between lock and unlock.)
Okay, so my stock converter will brake to about 1,800-1,900 - and it flashes to 2,100 at the strip. What will the 2600 behave like?
I'm still considering going with a Yank 3K, or a Vig triple-disk 2600-2800, but I tow ~5,000lbs about 500 miles a year and I DO_NOT want the TCC lock/unlock to feel like a complete gear change. (IE: Not talking about the engagement smoothness, but the RPM change between lock and unlock.)
anyone who is considering a stall, go for a 3000. no more and less. i used to have the same questions as everyone else. i researched for months before i purchased. best mod you can ever do. traction is a major issue though. i never would break a tire loose. now it is super easy, but fun. 4WD launches with a 3000 stall rock. the only downfall is the way it shifts. i think i need a shift kit or servos. tranny life might also decline.
#20
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Joined: Sep 2003
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I just had my 2600 installed Saturday.At first it seemed really loose,but now after 100 miles it is definately starting to tighten up.It will light up posi at 1/2 throttle.Also installed corvette servo and billet OD servo.NICE firm shifts,2nd,3rd & 4th.
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