trxmxzx

iTrader: (7)

well I reread what I asked that sounded dumb. Seeing these ARP bolts (not studs) are not stretch bolts. How do come up with the proper torque? And the use of there lube needed correct?

im used to the stretch method

First stage: Using a torque wrench, tighten the M11 bolts numbered 1 through 10 in sequence to 22 ft lbs.

Second stage: Now use a torque angle gauge to add 90 degrees of twist to the same bolts, again in sequence.

Final stage: The specifications to use in the stage depend on the style of head bolts that your block uses.

2004 and later blocks with all the same length M11 bolts: Add an additional 70 degrees of twist to the bolts in sequence.

2003 and earlier blocks with long/short M11 bolts: Add an additional 90 degrees of twist to the bolts numbered 1-8 in sequence. Then add 50 degrees of twist to the shorter M11bolts in locations 9 and 10.

Once all M11 bolts are secured, use a torque wrench to tighten the M8 bolts numbered 11-15 in sequence to 22 ft lbs. There is no angle to add to these bolts..

trxmxzx

iTrader: (7)

So do I do 72ftlb?

03sierraslt

iTrader: (22)

Torque them to ARP instructions.

trxmxzx

iTrader: (7)

Thanks! How about that lube I hear about? Or is that for just studs

trxmxzx

iTrader: (7)

So I took the top end of this lq9 apart- why is one side clean - pushrods clean ones are passenger side dirty ones are drivers side

ZR1 DREAMING

iTrader: (28)

Use the lube ARP provides, make sure to hit the washer as instructed too.

03sierraslt

iTrader: (22)

Yep, exactly. Just follow their instructions.

trxmxzx

iTrader: (7)

funny after I brought all this up, I opened the package and the lube was in there and torque specs... I'm a idiot and should have looked further into it.

ZR1 DREAMING

iTrader: (28)

Ain't nothin wrong with asking questions and learning!

FFDP

iTrader: (2)

Blame the PCV system for the half dirty parts, I would at least.