I bought the Dynojet Wide Band Commando... Bastards sent me a black face gauge instead of the white face I ordered. Maybe if they exchange my gauge for the right one it'll be promoted back to the rank of commander

As far as the exhaust shop goes... if any shop is afraid to do something, even if you know it'll probably be fine, you don't want them touching your vehicle. They've already told you they won't be responsible for screwing it up. You can't trust them.

Cory

 

Okay... I installed it today in about 30 minutes. I know someone will call BS on that but it is possible. As I don't want to add another guage pod to the truck I opted for the temporary installation and used the USB output to my laptop to see what was going on. No need to wire and mount the guage unless you just want to.

Anyway, I decided to use the driverside rear O2 sensor. Took the stock sensor out, plugged the wide band O2 sensor in and routed the wires above the frame and up through the drivers door jamb. I disabled the codes in HP Tuner to do that without throwing a code.

Next I popped off the fuse panel and tapped into a 12v power source with a flat spade connector. I put a ring connector on the grounds and used a existing dash mount bolt for the ground. Worked perfect. Yes, I could tap into TPS and RPM for those displays but it is more complicated, more involved, and more permanent. I have HP Tuners so I have a good datalogging package already. What we would do is once the fuel was right we would hook up HP Tuners for full datalogging once we knew the AFR was safe.

We made a couple pulls at full throttle and saw 10.0 AFR. Now I don't know if that was a true 10.0 or if it was actually a 9.xx AFR because it won't read below 10.0 .
We knew it was overfueled and went back to take some fuel out. Looks like some of the fuel I had added previously was entire unnecessary.

We did a couple more runs and got it settled into the 11.1 - 11.2 AFR range throught 1st and 2nd gears. As we did we found that the truck seems to like 11.2 more than 11.5 and it's sucking in a pretty good quantity of air. At the top of 1st (6000 rpm) it's pulling 58.94 lbs/min (446.59 gms/s) and the top of second (5700 rpm) was pulling 56.64 lb/min (430.71 gms/s).

We've taken 50 rpm from the 1-2 shift and added another 100 rpm to the second shift point because it was shifting too quickly to achieve the commanded shift point (was 5800 rpm).

We also found that with the excess fuel removed that we could no longer fun the 17 degrees of timing that we had and are down to 15 degrees now.

So it's all set to toss the new pulley 2.9 on when it arrives hopefully this next week.

When the Wide Band Commander is used as I have used mine it can be installed in about 20 minutes the second time and uninstalled in the same amount of time. Perfect for tuning several cars.

 

Good information, I'd like to install a wideband on mine temporary to fine tune and then move it to my other turbo car.

 

The muffler shop near me doesn't like to touch anything stainless either. In a (stick) welding class I'm taking, the instructor touched upon the SS welding - he says you need to weld two of the same types of metals, with the same type SS rod. I have no freaking idea what everything is made out of. (factory exhaust, and the bung).

I made the mistake of letting one hole-in-the-wall shop mod a stainless section of tubing off my manifolds on 2000 S10 I had... the dang weld kept cracking and blowing out on me. Now I know why.

 

A lot of folks get away with welding a mild steel bung on stainless but I think the key is not to be too near something really hot- like the collector or the cat.