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Whipple tuning defeat question?

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Old Feb 14, 2004 | 11:38 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by parish8
hey, i just looked at that last log you sent me and it looks the same as the one above, o2's way low, did you send me the wrong one?
my stupid email sent it again, i have to delete the file or it keeps sending it and telling me it didn't. i wasn't sure if you wanted to see it or not. i'll send the one with the whipple defeated. sorry about that. could you tell me how to mod my pressure reg ? and what in edit i can change to give it a little more fuel for now. thanks, i'm trying to get it a little better for my trip on monday. e
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Old Feb 15, 2004 | 12:03 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by etc
my stupid email sent it again, i have to delete the file or it keeps sending it and telling me it didn't. i wasn't sure if you wanted to see it or not. i'll send the one with the whipple defeated. sorry about that. could you tell me how to mod my pressure reg ? and what in edit i can change to give it a little more fuel for now. thanks, i'm trying to get it a little better for my trip on monday. e
damn, sorry, i thought you were trying to do this without edit did you say before you have injectors coming? just drive it easy and stay out of the boost till you get them injectors and we can talk you thru the tune then, it is a bit of a pain and you dont want to do it twice and your injectors really aren't up to the task anyways.

if your dead set on geting started goto your fueling tab in edit, look at the PE section, set the pe delay to 0 if it isn't all ready. go into the PE vs RPM and add something like .1 to that chart across the board. this will most likely make you rich, you can see how rich by doing a run and then you need to decide what rpms to make richer or leaner, some may need more than the .1 and some may need less. have fun.
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Old Feb 15, 2004 | 12:08 AM
  #43  
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i just looked at your latest log, you are close to 40lb's of air now and your injectors are maxed, there is a point where they show 105% but you are not even floored at that point.

4500rpm, 38lb's of air and 105%injector duty cycle, thats prety cool but you need some bigger injectors before you go on.
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Old Feb 15, 2004 | 12:59 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by parish8
i just looked at your latest log, you are close to 40lb's of air now and your injectors are maxed, there is a point where they show 105% but you are not even floored at that point.

4500rpm, 38lb's of air and 105%injector duty cycle, thats prety cool but you need some bigger injectors before you go on.
ok, i think we're on the same page now. yes i am ordering larger injectors, but i'm taking a trip and don't want them to show up and be left on the porch so i'll get them when i get back. the reason i wanted to know about the pressure reg is, it seems i'm a few pounds lower then when i installed it, just want to get it back in the ballpark, not try to tune with it. do you see what i'm saying about the difference between having the whipple connected or not ? it looks like the whipple computer is telling the pcm my o2 voltage is alot lower than it really is above 60% throttle position. i'll try that in edit , if upping the pressure to 60 psi at idle doesn't work. have you given any thought to whether or not i can just tap the maf and o2's rather than the intercept i have now, i wouldn't be able to use the out wire, but i wonder if it gets the input signal if that's enough ?, this is for when i install the larger injectors of course. thanks for all your input parish, your really helping me out. e
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Old Feb 15, 2004 | 01:11 AM
  #45  
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i doubt you will get it to 60psi at idle, i think stock it is suppose to be at 58-59 with the vacume line to the reg unhooked.

more fuel presure will carry your injectors farther but will max out the fuel pump sooner. for your set up you really need a pump and biger injectors, the fuel presure doesn't really matter as long it starts low at idle and goes higher with more load. seem like i was at about 50psi at idle, 58psi or so at 0boost and 62psi or so at 8lb's of boost. if you get a 10+psi swing or so then you are fine.
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Old Feb 15, 2004 | 04:22 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by parish8
i doubt you will get it to 60psi at idle, i think stock it is suppose to be at 58-59 with the vacume line to the reg unhooked.

more fuel presure will carry your injectors farther but will max out the fuel pump sooner. for your set up you really need a pump and biger injectors, the fuel presure doesn't really matter as long it starts low at idle and goes higher with more load. seem like i was at about 50psi at idle, 58psi or so at 0boost and 62psi or so at 8lb's of boost. if you get a 10+psi swing or so then you are fine.
i'm at 57 now, idle , vacumn unhooked. whipple said 62+or- 2 ,was at 60 right after install, will try upping it a little, do a log. maybe up the pe a little [ when does p.e kick in ?] most of my problem seems to be wot above 3k or above 60% throttle. is it by rpm in all throttle positions ? i need to know this stuff anyway for when i up the inj size. what would you recommend as far as an upgrade on the fuel pump ? some kind of inline add on pump ? or does someone make a replacement ? be specific if you can. any thoughts on the wiring to the whipple ? or why the whipple computer would be sending such ridiculously low o2 #'s . the #'s change drastically with the w/comp disconnected and the aux injectors not adding fuel. you'd think it would be leaner without that extra fuel but it actually reads richer.
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Old Feb 15, 2004 | 09:27 AM
  #47  
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etc...with the LS1edit, efllive, and the factory pcm you have some powerful tools for making the whipple work without their silly computer. But until you get yourself a widebandO2 you are guessing at a/f ratios. You won't regret it when you feel the power difference when it's dialed in correctly and also the piece of mind not having to worry about burning a piston.
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Old Feb 15, 2004 | 02:37 PM
  #48  
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etc, so when you floor it with the whipple computer plugged in correctly you see 5psi on your boost gauge and a lean condition (at least from the O2 readouts)? But when you unlpug the whip.comp. you see 2psi on your boost gauge and O2s in the .80s?What is the wiring bypass plug that you say returns the wiring to stock? I just unplug the big gray connector that inserts directly into the whip.computer to be sure nothing is getting intercepted or read. ***But in your case for right now leave it plugged in so that your auxilary injectors function.

What size pulley are you running, 4.25"? On the sigle belt Whipple kit setup,right? I ask because when you don't have the computer plugged in the electric solenoid cannot hold pressure on the bypass valve to hold it closed above 4.5psi. But you said you saw 5psi right, so the blower is capable of making at least that much pressure with your current pulley. However with the comp. disabled you aren't seeing 4.5psi you only see 2psi..? **Let me first say this, then I'll troubleshoot. On my setup, single belt, with the computer disabled I see 4.5psi b/c no solenoid opperation holding the bypass shut. On your setup they may have changed the pressure at which the bypass blows off without solenoid opperation i.e. they may have changed it from holding 4.5psi to only 2psi. for more safety. Okay that being said, let's still suppose the pressure at which the bypass pops open without the solenoid being able to hold it shut (in a disconnected whipple computer situation) is 4.5psi. You should see that 4.5psi number on your boost gauge regardless of whip.comp. hooked up. EDIT see below

I just thought of something. In my case the bypass being blown open I bet was not completely blown open. just cracked to leak boost but still make 4.5psi in my application. I am thinking this because otherwise how would the Whipple be able to blow off all but 2psi of boost under lean conditions, like all of the 4.8,5.3,6.0L Whipples kits are programmed to do. The only function that I know of that blows off all but but 2psi is controlled by that solenoid to open the bypass -completely.
I am getting at that you maybe didn't actually disarm the Whipple computer completely on you dissabled whipple computer run. (see top paragraph about complete and unquestionable dissable, remove gray plug from actual computer box) I bet if you did this you would see that 4.5psi number (if they didn't change the actual bypass regulator pressures from my kit to your kit)
I don't think testing this would be such a good idea though because your O2s were low even on 2psi. Here is the dilemma you cannot really test to see if your whipple computer is innacurate safely with stock injectors. If you unplug everything you could very well make 4.5psi but you wouldn't have those auxilary injectors plugged in to help your fueling either :boom: You could leave everything plugged in except for your bypass valve solenoid connection, but you may not be able to tell a big difference in O2 readouts for 0.5psi difference.

***If I had to speculate on anything I would say it is your fuel pump going bad. How long have you had the kit with the boost-a-pump installed? How many miles were on the tuck before you installed the Whipple? The boost-a-pump increases voltage going to the stock pump to make it spin faster. Ever put a 9volt battery up to a small electric motor that is rated only up to 2.5volts..? It spins really fast for a short time then burns up. In the long run, this is what boost-a-pumps do to your stock pump.

If you wanted to increase fueling by increasing fuel pressure, you could but it might run wierd at lower rpms because it wouldn't be tuned in edit.
The only way I know to tune for that pressure change is to use l-trim logging like I mentioned in the above post about tunning for new injectors. A new fuel pressure would be the same thing tunning wise.

I know that was a lot Let's get this fixed though.
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Old Feb 16, 2004 | 01:12 AM
  #49  
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thats easy for you to say. hey ryan your back. ok lets start with the plug, whipple supplied a plug with my kit, plugs into the lead coming out of the pcm. basicly it just reconnects the wires that i intercepted, the only wire left going to the whipple is the power wire [ must be how it keeps the boost down] anyway i logged it without the whipple connected and even without the aux inj's kicking and even though my inj's were around 100% at wot my o2 readings stayed high .80 + , and my maf readigs are accurate. when i log with the whipple connected anything above 60% throttle and the readings drop and stay low, way low, too low, the only logical thing i can think of is the whipple is lying and trying to get the pcm to dump as much fuel as possible. but the readings are to low and half the time it throws a low voltage dtc [ even though in reality i bet the readings are in a normal range. as far as the fuel pressure my reading was lower then when i installed the s.c i just wanted to get it back up where it is supposed to be. did it today, thanks parish. my l-trims dropped a little but are still always positive. going to increase p.e just for fun to see what happens. still going to get the larger inj's probably a couple weeks, sure i'll need some help. does the pcm use the o2's to figure out the l-trims ? if so i really need to get the whipple out of control. i keep asking if anyone knows if i can just tap the o2's and maf when i get the 43# inj. so i get real readings, but it looks like noone knows. right now i have a line in and out of the pcm and whipple for the front o2's and maf, what i want to do is reconnect the pcm to them [o2,maf} and tap the "in" line to the whipple and not use the "out" from the whipple, it will be able to read the info but not send a signal to the pcm. i don't know if this will work, but don't feel i'll be able to tune with it the way it is. what do you think regarding fuel pump, is there a larger replacement or use inline, and how would i set that up and what volume/pressure do i need ? thanks for your input ryan and parish. going snowboarding talk to you guys next week. e
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Old Feb 16, 2004 | 01:18 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by 67SS509
etc...with the LS1edit, efllive, and the factory pcm you have some powerful tools for making the whipple work without their silly computer. But until you get yourself a widebandO2 you are guessing at a/f ratios. You won't regret it when you feel the power difference when it's dialed in correctly and also the piece of mind not having to worry about burning a piston.
would like to keep the computer for the safety feature, just don't want it in control. i was thinking i might need a wideband if i can't get it right using l-trims as a guide. what do you reccomend, what does it cost, only need one right ? what's the best source ? later e
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