Ryan23silverado

iTrader: (1)

dude you've got problems :sad: I feel for you also since it is not just your truck... The bypass valve is held closed at 70% tps and higher. So when you see getting rich then, it is normal. Now 10:1 umm you shouldn't be that rich but I know you know that. Was this a new kit designed to work on the '03 pcm? I don't believe the whipple box actually alters signals to the pcm. I know they are not the brightest at Whipple, but ask them if the whipple box actually changes signals going to the pcm (in a way that doesn't sound antagonizing to your problems, so you get a real answer
Have you checked out the actual blower yet? did a lobe break off? can you spin it freely by hand and feel air coming out -you should be able to.

***be advised had a piece gotten into a cylinder it would have beat that head up pretty good. I would eventually expect a coolant leak from a cracked head leading to hydrolocking of the motor. See if you can turn over the motor by hand using a big ratchet on the crank balancer bolt (taking the spark plugs out makes this easier). If nothing as apparent, pull the valvecovers and rockers. Check to make sure all of your pushrods are straight by putting them next to a straightedge. (a small piece of something may not have cracked the head but overcompressed the pushrods and lifters when the valve squished it)
If it is really that serious, I am just trying to think of all checks before heads need to be pulled. A head swap is kind of time consuming

HAZE

ryan, thanks for the in depth lesson i'll have to read it a couple more times, got about half of that. when i say i'm new to edit and efi live, maybe infantile would be more correct. as far as the computer sending signals, i know i intercepted several connections. my temp gauge reads high and wanders and i believe a few other sensors are affected. but the important thing is, can i run larger injectors and tune for them with the whipple in place ? are my reported sensor readings correct enough to do this? i was under the impression that a stock maf and map cannot handle s.c airflow and positve manifold pressure respectivly. if i can do this i don't feel the need to remove the whipple stuff. if anyone has an edit file for a whipple s.c with larger injectors that would help. sorry for the basic questions, while i feel i'm a little over my head, if someone will walk me though this, i'm sure i can do this. did the install alone but that was just mech. this computer stuff is more daunting to me. if i need anything other than edit, efi live and larger injectors let me know. and thanks again everyone .p.s ryan i was talking about the intake manifold, i'll leave it alone for now. maybe when i get this done we can talk about that intercooler.

67SS509

iTrader: (22)

This guy was driving it when it broke so I don't feel too bad from that point of view. Also he has been a hot rodder for 30 years so he is accustomed to these kind of set backs. This truck also blowed a head gasket the first week the whipple was on it.

The kit is for the 03, its only 3 months old. On this kit the TPS tap is deleted and the Map sensor tap. I can't figure out what is triggering the lean to rich switch around 60-70% throttle. It does have a mechanical pressure control in the bypass. It can be dumped open with the solenoid that is mounted in the pressure tap tubing line. This could be controlled with a toggle switch and power supply so the whipple computer can be done away. That's what I'm going to try when it comes back from whipple.

HAZE

hey guys, just ran a log w/efi. ryan, you said the l-trims should be 0 or below. mine are always positive avg. from 4 to 25, am i looking at the right box ? longft1 &2 in stock efi dash. does that mean i'm running lean all the time ?noticed my inj duty was high at wot, found a frame with these numbers;rpm-4810,tp% 100, 02's about .237, inj duty 94%. that seems scary. got out my install directions, intercepted wire to my pcm are maf,and o2 sensor both front banks. if i change injectors, would it be better to tap these, can i just tap them and still have the bypass ? can i adjust my stock inj richer for now until i get the 43's ? . as low as my o2 sensors go, even to the point of throwing a code, my whipple light never comes on other than the self check at startup. i don't like the idea of letting this computer intercept signals, since it is doing such a lousy job, can i adjust them with bidirectional controls with efi live ? to see if that helps ? thanks. e

HAZE

sorry two posts in a row, but i just reread your post and p.m ryan, so to go richer and lower my l trim i reduce the the flow rate ? seems like it would be the other way around. again, is there any room to adjust the stock inj richer, or will i just max out the duty cycle quicker ? my stock flow rate is set at 3.18 across the board. going to order the 43's tommorow

Ryan23silverado

iTrader: (1)

etc I would not adjust your IFR right now. I would only do it to tune for new injectors. Your injector duty cycle is correct for stock injectors and a Whipple. Notice how it pretty much maxes out the stock ones, then it uses the two auxilary 42lb injectors to add more fuel. (IMO and from a tuning standpoint -it is a poor setup)
Your ltrims do not affect any air/fuel mixture under cruising situations. (closed loop mode) Your air/fuel is calculated off of your O2 sensors to always be 14.7 unless you change that 14.7 number in LS1edit. So, in actuality you arent running lean if you see a +25 ltrim (by the way a only a +26 or above ltrim sets an SES code) What you want to look at on wide open throttle runs are your front O2 sensor voltages. That will give an estimate of what your a/f is like at wot. It should be around 91-93. An 87 on O2s is getting pretty lean for stock internals and boost. The Whipple computer only blows off boost if you get something like a 75...by that time you would have already melted a piston though.

HAZE

hey ryan, i'm getting an ses pretty much everytime i punch it for an over 5 seconds. it's an o2 low voltage code, seems like my aux inj's aren't kicking in when they should. is there anything i can adjust for now until i get the 43's ? how about p.e [ how does that work anyway? and why the delay? i'm going to order the injectors now. but i have a fairly long drive next week and i'm getting sick of turning off the dtc code. also could you explain why lowering the # in the flow rate table makes the engine richer, is that # telling the pcm what size the injector is ? and if you tell it the injector is smaller it compensates by increasing the pulsewidth giving more fuel ? just trying to understand how this all ties together, so i can tune it for the new injectors. looking at a log right now have a 10 second wot section both o2's have similar readings between 0.242-0.325 the graph is flat for that period. inj duty goes from 60% to 94% spark is at 12 degrees with no kr, stays in fuel cell 22. i remember you said earlier that the new kits don't intercept any signals. do you think if i tapped only the "in" wire to the whipple for the maf and o2's the whipple safeties will still function ? i think it may be modifying the signal since it has an in and out wire. i'm ok with it seeing whats going on but not with it controlling what the pcm sees. e

Ryan23silverado

iTrader: (1)

dude do not floor it anymore -at least for tonight so I can explain things in the morning Something is up with your O2 voltage, because at that low you should've burned some valves (if they are accurate, but they prob. aren't). Oh by the way how does your fuel pressure look at wide open throttle, any drop in pressure?

HAZE

ryan, been that way ever since i put it on. have a power loss between 3-4 k, feels like the bypass is closing but i have boost at the intake. been round and round with whipple. thats why i got edit and efi, and thats why i need your help. whipples solution was for me to drive to fresno and spend a couple days while they figured it out. then their head tech left and noone seemed to know what was going on. hence the discussion about removing the computer [at least partially] i think the whipple is sending erroneous info to the pcm. as far as fuel pressure, i did the required tests at install [pain in the ****, my line is too short so i had to remove the hood] i can check it again, but i think the computer is the culprit. whipple says if the self check go's ok it's not the computer, but i feel otherwise. they gave me a plug thats supposed to revert the wiring back to stock. i'll use it tommorow, check the fuel psi again and log it sans whipple. maybe i'll pull that stupid boost a pump thing off to and check the pressure. talk too me when you get some time tommorow, i'll check it in the morning. thanks e

parish8

iTrader: (6)

i am with ryan, DONT FLOOR IT ANYMORE, not till you figure out whats up with those 02's.

i'd kinda like to see your logs, can you send them to me? cobra99vert@aol.com