Whipple tuning defeat question?
02-06-2004, 07:22 PM
#1
Whipple tuning defeat question?
I have been trying to tune a friend's stock 2003 5.3 with a Whipple supercharger. I'm using LS1edit. What I'm seeing is as soon as 70% of throttle is applied at any rpm the a/f ratio goes off scale below 10 (wideband). Anything below 70% throttle and the a/f is 15-16. It does it even with the 2 aux. injectors unpluged. Whipple's little add on computer seems to only know "whoa or go". Detonation is also terrible even while on the low octane table. Can someone tell me how to eliminate the Whipple computer from controlling the fuel but keep it controlling the boost bypass? By the way I tried to talk this guy into a Radix but people just will not listen to you sometimes!
02-06-2004, 08:17 PM
#2
I don't think you can do that. It has been a long time since I messed with it but I think when I started trying unhooking various parts of the whipple system it kept going into reduced power mode. Just put him some bigger injectors in and take all that other crap off. It will start performing like it should then. That is when mine started coming around. That boost dump is just a POS and not needed. A lot of the lightning guys unhook theirs or have it turned off in the programming.
02-06-2004, 08:42 PM
#3
Originally Posted by L-EATER
I don't think you can do that. It has been a long time since I messed with it but I think when I started trying unhooking various parts of the whipple system it kept going into reduced power mode. Just put him some bigger injectors in and take all that other crap off. It will start performing like it should then. That is when mine started coming around. That boost dump is just a POS and not needed. A lot of the lightning guys unhook theirs or have it turned off in the programming.
02-06-2004, 09:20 PM
#4
All the boost dump soleniod does is dump boost when the whipple computer thinks conditions are unsafe. It just releases the boost even if you still have it on the mat. It is a good idea, but doesnt' work very well in reality. Whipple told me that their safeguards (the dump and the little blinky light) are set to come on at an O2 reading of 700mv or less at full throttle. The pistons would be melted by then anyway. Not that its relevant here, but what happens on some lightnings is if you over rev the motor a little when you do a burnout the pcm activates the dump solenoid. Then when the tree comes down you launch and it feels like a turd cause it is making zero boost. If they unhook the sol the prob goes away but it sets a code. I believe if you unhook the whipple sol the truck will not run right, but you could try it.
02-06-2004, 10:25 PM
#5
Take a look at your IAT numbers when you are seeing those results. When I had my whipple computer hooked up, it would send out come crazy readings to the PCM. That made trying to properly tune the PCM around their stuff a big issue. It didn't take me long to pull the whipple computer.
02-07-2004, 01:22 AM
#6
Launching!
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 275
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I thought the general thoughts on the board were that with large injectors the whipple tuning is somewhat easier to do. Are the problems with it because he is not completely removing the whipple computer? I will be tuning a whipple 6.0 soon and would like to know the best way to go about that. Thanks guys!
02-07-2004, 02:55 AM
#7
i have experience with exactly what you are trying to do. it is simple.
leave everything hooked up except for the aux injectors, just unplug them. the whipple computer will still pull some boost and flash that light when it thinks there is a problem and on my truck it didn't notice the injectors were unpluged. then put in some big injectors and tune your a/f ratio with edit.
i see no reason to get rid of the whipple safe guards, i had my light come on several times, it is bright and definately draws your attention. one time it was just an o2 that was going bad so it didn't save the motor but it did let me know there was a problem, the other time i was actualy droping fuel presure. i was at 8psi on a 6.0 with the stock fuel pump. my fuel presure was droping to about 45psi at the shifts and turned on the light and pulled boost.
when it goes into the reduced boost mode i had an 8psi pully on there and it pulled the boost back to 2-3psi. whipples aux injector idea does seem a little silly but the boost pulling feature seems like a great idea to me
something to keep in mind is whipple made a few changes thru the years, so some of the advice you get may not be acurate for your set up.
leave everything hooked up except for the aux injectors, just unplug them. the whipple computer will still pull some boost and flash that light when it thinks there is a problem and on my truck it didn't notice the injectors were unpluged. then put in some big injectors and tune your a/f ratio with edit.
i see no reason to get rid of the whipple safe guards, i had my light come on several times, it is bright and definately draws your attention. one time it was just an o2 that was going bad so it didn't save the motor but it did let me know there was a problem, the other time i was actualy droping fuel presure. i was at 8psi on a 6.0 with the stock fuel pump. my fuel presure was droping to about 45psi at the shifts and turned on the light and pulled boost.
when it goes into the reduced boost mode i had an 8psi pully on there and it pulled the boost back to 2-3psi. whipples aux injector idea does seem a little silly but the boost pulling feature seems like a great idea to me
something to keep in mind is whipple made a few changes thru the years, so some of the advice you get may not be acurate for your set up.
Trending Topics
02-07-2004, 07:29 AM
#8
I had no trouble when having mine tuned. I did get rid of the 2 whipple injectors and install a set of 43 pound/hr ones. I still have all the whipple computer still hooked up. Only problem I have run into is at WOT the bypass opens right before the transmisson shifts, making the boost drop down to about 4 from 8.5 which causes a huge loss in HP at the shift. On the dybo the bypass opened at WOT in 3rd just as it got to around 5500 rpms,the dyno graph showed over 100 hp loss,it just dropped straight down. We finally held the bypass closed and it pulled clean to 6000 rpm's, showed 5 more peak hp and went to 10 pounds of boost. I asked whipple how to bypass the fail safe and they would not tell me, they said my truck was running lean, thats why it did it. I didnt want to argue with them so I didnt tell them that their light never came on, not to mention the damn truck had just been tuned on a dyno. I think you have to unplugg a vacumn line and plug the ends on the bypass to get around this feature. Anyone know?????
02-07-2004, 04:08 PM
#9
Made another run on the wideband (0 to 120mph) with the 2 whipple injectors unplugged. It went below 10 again on the a/f but by 5000 rpm in 2nd looks like it ran out of injector and shot up to 15 (not good). When it shifted to high it dropped to below 10 again and at the top end went up to 15 again. So it has to have the bigger injectors. Only thing is I feel I need to retain the boost/bypass control to limit the boost. Detonation is a problem already and more boost will just add to it. I looked at the wiring and the whipple computer intercepts the right bank O2 sensor signal and controls the fuel and the boost from it. I tried it with the sensor unplugged and everything went crazy. If I can get this thing to run on 4.5 lbs of boost without detonation with LS1edit controlling the fuel that will be the most I could hope for.
02-08-2004, 10:55 PM
#10
On newer Whipple setups, the computer must be retained because the solenoid that holds the bypass valve shut is electric. On the old setups the bypass is mechanical, so all of the computer can be done away with (provided you know your tuning) The bypass valve will pop open above 4.5psi on the newer electric setups if the solenoid is not able to hold it. i.e. if you are running a 6lb pulley and only see 4.5psi check to make sure your bypass works 
(this example being in theory as a better flowing engine with mods will drop a psi# down)
Ranwalk you can reroute those vacuum lines around the bypass solenoid if you wanted and boost would no longer be blown off (until 4.5psi with the electric kits) and it makes a Wicked cool noise. It sounds like the engine is running a giant roots blower
...we were trying to pin point a boost prob. when we rerouted that bypass. This is when I learned that on the newer kits you have to run the electric solenoid.
As far as fuel tuning, my stuff is dead on with my 42lb injectors and 3.5" pulley.
Ryan
(this example being in theory as a better flowing engine with mods will drop a psi# down)Ranwalk you can reroute those vacuum lines around the bypass solenoid if you wanted and boost would no longer be blown off (until 4.5psi with the electric kits) and it makes a Wicked cool noise. It sounds like the engine is running a giant roots blower
...we were trying to pin point a boost prob. when we rerouted that bypass. This is when I learned that on the newer kits you have to run the electric solenoid.
As far as fuel tuning, my stuff is dead on with my 42lb injectors and 3.5" pulley.
Ryan