I have $500 tied into my entire exhuast system. I have the pacesetter lts, or y-pipe, a flowtech cutout, and a flow master 40series i got for free. I did all of the labor and welded the exhuast myself. But I heen quoted anywheres from 200-300 in labor/parts to run a new exhuast similiar to yours.

 

It took me four hours to install the headers, and I'm sure we could have done it quite a bit faster. The hardest part was trying to fit the damn things in the into the engine bay. After we did that, I drove it 15 minutes in early morning traffic to a muffler shop who re-did the whole y-pipe and installed a si/do magnaflow and dumped it after the axle for $150 (I think).

 

That sounds high to me. Youve swapped motors. Headers is nothing. Do you have a welder? I would do it myself if I were you.

 

No doubt I could do it. But I want it done in a day. I dont have a welder and my buddy who does is outta town for 2 more weeks. I'm hitting the dyno on Thursday and want the exhaust done before that. I found a shop that is gonna do it. No price quoted yet but they have always been cheaper than the other guys. He said a couple hundred to install the headers. The other guy said $450. I figure if I can get everything for under $800 I'll be happy. I'll post pics and tell you what it ran me. And of course the required exhaust vid. Should have it up by Thursday.

 

Quick questions:

I have a wideband going in as well. I have 3 bungs plus the LT's have bungs already. So I was thinking leave all 4 stock O2's in and add a bung Before/After the cat on the Drivers/Passenger side?? Pick one of the choices in bold, what do you guys think?
I've read all the threads about this via the search button. Some put it on the drivers side after the cat, before the cat on the passenger side blah blah....
I think before the cat would get a more accurate reading. Would the drivers side be a better choice because thats where the lean #7 is? I've also heard that the passenger side is the leaner side but somehow #7 always breaks first. Looking for inputs, where would you put your Innovate Wideband?

 

Delete the two back O2 sensors, and run a wide band in place of a front sensor. I have wide bands replacing both front sensors. The rear O2 sensors give the computer another O2 reading, the computer runs its algorithm to determine if the cats are operatoring within specifications.

 

I thought about that but I don't you need some sort of adapter so the PCM can read the wideband for its purposes? True/False? I was thinking of putting a bung right after the collector on the passenger side, so 8-10 inches from the stock front O2. That way I dont have to cut/splice any wires and if I ever want to pull the WB I can just screw in the bung plug and be done.

 

Regarding pricing, I say tell them their 'estimate' or 'offer' is too high and make them a counteroffer. Worse case scenario, they say no. I bet if you make a reasonable counter (i.e. $700 if you're actually willing to pay $800) then you will likely get what you want and so will they.

Regarding the bung issue...you want your pre-cat sensors in, those are important. I would just have the shop weld in another bung before a cat. That's where I've heard they're most accurate.

 

The Innovative LC-1 wideband has the compability to convert the wideband signal into a narrow band for the computer.

 

I have a XD-1 and LC-1. The thing I dont see is where the stock O2 wiring harness will tie into the LC-1 harness or the Bosch WB O2. Do I have to splice wires? The LC-1 can send the correct voltage reading to the PCM (stock 5 wire-O2 wiring harness) so the PCM thinks it still has the stock narrow band and also send the correct voltage to the LC-1 so it can read my AFR? I thought I read somewhere about an adapter for this. Got any pics of your WB setup?

Thanks