Already done, as I mentioned. It failed at 103k miles. One of the reasons why I don't trust my engine, since nothing on this truck has been trustworthy. Rear end failed at 97k. Tips of the spider gear teeth were all in the magnet!

All on my YouTube channel, too:

Part 1 of a 3-part trans swap vid:
Differential swap:

 

Have you thought about selling all the parts and the truck and buying the diesel you wanted to begin with?

If this vehicle is so critical to you and your financial wellness, I wouldn’t want to trust a modded out truck with forced induction even if it was “built right.” I’d much rather have something built to take the abuse of consistent towing and heavy work. This is why I won’t tow more than a couple thousand pounds with a half ton. I don’t care what the manufacturers say, they are light duty vehicles made for hauling families, not loads.

 

LOL, in a perfect world! I might get 40% of what I spent ... IF I was lucky.

Well, I kind of expected for $31k to get something that would last me 20 years. Glad I don't drive it much - it would've been in the crusher in 2010! I'm confident I can rebuilt this better than GM ever could. Once everything is done and done right, there will be no reason to question its reliability, at least mechanically. Electrically is a whole other story, but I'll cross that bridge when I get there.

 

sell that performabuilt

 

No f'n way! That's the best part of this truck right now, lol. 😂

 

Go ahead and get one of those new series engine blocks that Texas Speed released, is what I came to say. But looks like you linked one already.

I wouldn't fear putting a SC on with 100k miles BUT thats just me

 

Ive helped build and drove across the country in a 03 Yukon with 264k on it. He bought the truck, changed the oil and put a turbo on it same weekend. That was 5yrs ago, and I suspect that truck is over 300k now, and he and I talk regularly- except for turbo problems and trans problems, still rockin that ****

My 02 Tahoe is ~210k and I can't wait to put my blower back on it (trans problems holding me back right now) She spent ~15k mi blown before the trans started ****** up. Wouldn't hesitate to drive that girl with 9k behind her from Mexico to Canada

You've had your illusion shattered, and thats fine- but the LS series is the absolute best engine ever built. If this engine is hard to work on for you, don't. Nothing out there is easier lol. YouTube is chock full of 1000hp junkyard and high mile builds. High mile LS success stories are all over this forum and the internet

If you hate your engine that much, I'll buy it for the $100 its worth to you

Oh whats that? You won't sell it for $100? Because you know it has value beyond scrap price?

Strange how it be like that

 

It's looking like after all is said and done parts and machine shop wise, the price is going to be $1,400 cheaper than buying the Texas Speed block. That's with Wiseco pistons, BTR 4340 forged H-beam rods with ARP bolts, Clevite Tri-Armor coated main and rod bearings, Durabond teflon coated cam bearings, and balancing the rotating assembly. Not too bad, IMO.

 

Stuff was still good in '03. I see plenty GMT-800 series trucks well over 300k miles still driving and coming into my shop around here. The 900 series seems to be plagued with low oil pressure and piston ring tension issues, and most have to be opened up not long after 100k miles for top end work (Lifters and cam, usually, along with valve springs, and VLOM issues). Look at my transmission for example - I've seen plenty 800 series trucks with over 200k on the stock trans WITH abuse. Mine was worked, but I run the best ATF I could buy, and it STILL smoked 3 & 4 at 103k miles. My '94 K1500 had 266k miles on what I believe was the stock 4L60E, and I towed with that thing every bit as much as with this one. Plus I was younger, and my foot was A LOT heavier.

 

Would anyone think it would be worth it to get a decent catch can and install it for a little while to see if that helps determine where the oil is coming from? See if its the block/rings vs crankcase from high RPM? It certainly beats the alternative if it's not the block/rings. Run it for a few thousand miles / oil change, and wouldn't that tell you if it's crankcase oil recirculating as opposed to blowby.