Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump Install PROBLEM!
06-05-2007, 09:17 AM
#11
Originally Posted by benvortec
The metal ring that holds the sock to the pump broke out of the sock when i was trying to install it and now i don't know what to do. Can i find a sock somewhere? I'm about to say **** it and not even use a sock... i'd hate to burn up a new fuel pump though 
02-04-2008, 10:59 PM
#16
Dude!! Thanks for posting that pic. Awesome. Is that ribbed looking hose what they call EFI hose? Did you have to buy that seperate, or was the included piece long enough? Also, what does the sock do? Thanks for posting that, it's very helpful to those of us who haven't done it yet. I'll get some pics of my install as well.
Oh yeah, did you use anything to seal around the hole at the bottom of the bucket?
Oh yeah, did you use anything to seal around the hole at the bottom of the bucket?
Last edited by CashDudeHomie; 02-04-2008 at 11:00 PM. Reason: Another question
02-07-2008, 05:51 PM
#18
i am sorry for not coming back.
Yes i used a plastic epoxy/glue to seal the bottom...I can't remember what it was. but don't sweat it, it is better to have a leaky bottom as I explain in a sec.
the ribbed hose is the original. i took my time and took the old apart. I did use a heat gun to "soften" the hose so it came off easier. (it slide right off) I even used a heat gun to slide it back on and then used a stainless steel hose clamp to seal it (while hose was warm and gooie)
I had to do some serious chopping to the bottom of the bucket to remove some ledges that were in the way and not letting the pump rest on the bottom. Once I removed the ledges and cleaned it up well I drilled holes in the bucket and zipped tied the fuel pump down so it stayed on the bottom. (you can see that black zip tie above) The sock didn't want to stay in place until i really smoothed out the bottom of that bucket so sock would grab that neck of the fuel pump outlet.
The electrical connections are soldered with heat shrink tubing that is oil resistant.
I did what i did cuz I want the pump grabbing fuel from the bottom of the tank, not the bucket. I wanted the bucket sealed up as much as possible except for the bottom to take advantage of the return tube filling the bucket up and keeping the pump cool. Yes on a hard acceleration the pump could be getting nothing if the tank was near empty, but that is the case with almost any semi-stock modified setup IMO. At least with a return in the bucket and a hard acceleration there is still fuel in the bucket "falling" onto the sock.
Yes i used a plastic epoxy/glue to seal the bottom...I can't remember what it was. but don't sweat it, it is better to have a leaky bottom as I explain in a sec.
the ribbed hose is the original. i took my time and took the old apart. I did use a heat gun to "soften" the hose so it came off easier. (it slide right off) I even used a heat gun to slide it back on and then used a stainless steel hose clamp to seal it (while hose was warm and gooie)
I had to do some serious chopping to the bottom of the bucket to remove some ledges that were in the way and not letting the pump rest on the bottom. Once I removed the ledges and cleaned it up well I drilled holes in the bucket and zipped tied the fuel pump down so it stayed on the bottom. (you can see that black zip tie above) The sock didn't want to stay in place until i really smoothed out the bottom of that bucket so sock would grab that neck of the fuel pump outlet.
The electrical connections are soldered with heat shrink tubing that is oil resistant.
I did what i did cuz I want the pump grabbing fuel from the bottom of the tank, not the bucket. I wanted the bucket sealed up as much as possible except for the bottom to take advantage of the return tube filling the bucket up and keeping the pump cool. Yes on a hard acceleration the pump could be getting nothing if the tank was near empty, but that is the case with almost any semi-stock modified setup IMO. At least with a return in the bucket and a hard acceleration there is still fuel in the bucket "falling" onto the sock.
02-10-2008, 01:05 AM
#19
For future reference, here's my install summary. Some steps may be slightly out of order.
Well, I reused the stock hose using Derek's method of cracking the stock pump's outlet with plyers. After that, I used needle noses to get the pieces out of the hose. I used 2 clamps to hook it to the new pump. Then I used dewman's method of placing the sock outside of the bucket (yes Derek, I am a stubborn ****.) I had to do lots of cutting and chopping with my rotary tool to make the thing fit. I also had to grind a notch to fit around the hose clamps. It was very frustrating. When you enlarge the hole, go slightly more in one direction, so the pump will sit straight up and down against the inner wall. I even had to chop on the plastic ring on the sock so it would go into the recessed area on the outside bottom of the bucket. But I made it work then zip tied it into place. I used western union splices on the wires, then soldered and heat shrinked them. Then, I repaired my fuel level sending unit by cleaning the circuit board and bending the metal tabs with tweezers so they firmly touch the circuit board. They are barely thicker than foil, so be very careful. Make sure you cut the zip tie close so it will fit into the tank. I used two, so it was a very tight fit. I then removed the inline pump and got ready for the first start up. It didn't start. Oops, I plugged the fuel pump relay into the fog light hole. LOL. Fired right up. Put the bed back on and at WOT it hits 60psi and doesn't try to drop at ALL!! It also builds more pressure when turning the key forward, but not starting. Total time: 6 hours. Would I do it again? F*** no!!! Would have been much less headache if I just stuffed it in, but I was determined to make the damn sock fit on the outside. Good luck anyone who does this in the future.
Well, I reused the stock hose using Derek's method of cracking the stock pump's outlet with plyers. After that, I used needle noses to get the pieces out of the hose. I used 2 clamps to hook it to the new pump. Then I used dewman's method of placing the sock outside of the bucket (yes Derek, I am a stubborn ****.) I had to do lots of cutting and chopping with my rotary tool to make the thing fit. I also had to grind a notch to fit around the hose clamps. It was very frustrating. When you enlarge the hole, go slightly more in one direction, so the pump will sit straight up and down against the inner wall. I even had to chop on the plastic ring on the sock so it would go into the recessed area on the outside bottom of the bucket. But I made it work then zip tied it into place. I used western union splices on the wires, then soldered and heat shrinked them. Then, I repaired my fuel level sending unit by cleaning the circuit board and bending the metal tabs with tweezers so they firmly touch the circuit board. They are barely thicker than foil, so be very careful. Make sure you cut the zip tie close so it will fit into the tank. I used two, so it was a very tight fit. I then removed the inline pump and got ready for the first start up. It didn't start. Oops, I plugged the fuel pump relay into the fog light hole. LOL. Fired right up. Put the bed back on and at WOT it hits 60psi and doesn't try to drop at ALL!! It also builds more pressure when turning the key forward, but not starting. Total time: 6 hours. Would I do it again? F*** no!!! Would have been much less headache if I just stuffed it in, but I was determined to make the damn sock fit on the outside. Good luck anyone who does this in the future.
Last edited by CashDudeHomie; 02-10-2008 at 01:44 AM. Reason: Add photo
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