Waking up a lq4
02-07-2019, 02:55 PM
#21
Rockers and lifters CAN be reused, but if you're building this with longevity in mind, you may as well upgrade the rockers with brass trunion bushings (replacing the needle bearings), and replace the lifters with OEM replacements.
Head bolts won't require anything fancy for a mild NA upgrade. Stock replacements work fine provided you torque them properly in the correct order. If you're a real tinkerer and think you may take the heads off multiple times, then it could be worthwhile to upgrade to ARP bolts which aren't TTY and can be reused. ARPs are over $100 for a set, so definitely a place to save money if you can avoid it.
Exhaust bolts/studs--the OEM bolts are prone to having their heads snapped off due to excessive engine movement. This is usually due to failed motor mounts. I wouldn't bother with anything fancy here either, especially if you have aftermarket poly mounts or have recently replaced your stock mounts with quality parts. Some people swear by studs because they provide hangers that help when installing, but I never had issue with installing using bolts--it just requires a bit more thought and planning. There are also some inexpensive Chinese made head studs you can buy that won't break the bank and offer the same benefits.
Exhaust manifold gaskets - I haven't heard of anything better than the stock MLS gaskets, new or reused. I brushed and cleaned the carbon off of mine and reused my stock parts with headers. Since you're not at risk of pushing fluids, these are well worth reusing. Worst case, you have a slight exhaust leak and need new ones. They're fairly easy to slide in later if absolutely needed.
I would suggest new OEM MLS head gaskets. They're not overly expensive and worth going with over Felpro.
Head bolts won't require anything fancy for a mild NA upgrade. Stock replacements work fine provided you torque them properly in the correct order. If you're a real tinkerer and think you may take the heads off multiple times, then it could be worthwhile to upgrade to ARP bolts which aren't TTY and can be reused. ARPs are over $100 for a set, so definitely a place to save money if you can avoid it.
Exhaust bolts/studs--the OEM bolts are prone to having their heads snapped off due to excessive engine movement. This is usually due to failed motor mounts. I wouldn't bother with anything fancy here either, especially if you have aftermarket poly mounts or have recently replaced your stock mounts with quality parts. Some people swear by studs because they provide hangers that help when installing, but I never had issue with installing using bolts--it just requires a bit more thought and planning. There are also some inexpensive Chinese made head studs you can buy that won't break the bank and offer the same benefits.
Exhaust manifold gaskets - I haven't heard of anything better than the stock MLS gaskets, new or reused. I brushed and cleaned the carbon off of mine and reused my stock parts with headers. Since you're not at risk of pushing fluids, these are well worth reusing. Worst case, you have a slight exhaust leak and need new ones. They're fairly easy to slide in later if absolutely needed.
I would suggest new OEM MLS head gaskets. They're not overly expensive and worth going with over Felpro.
Excellent advice and for what it's worth I bought new manifold gaskets a couple months ago at GM and they were right around $5 a piece.
On the exh manifold studs to have hangers.. I took two old bolts and cut the heads off and then took a cut off wheel and cut a groove in them to be able to stick a flat head screw driver in them. I put one at each end and hang my gasket then the manifold then thread in all the center bolts. Then remove the two studs and put in bolts and tighten em all down.
02-07-2019, 08:18 PM
#22
Teching In
Thread Starter
Rockers and lifters CAN be reused, but if you're building this with longevity in mind, you may as well upgrade the rockers with brass trunion bushings (replacing the needle bearings), and replace the lifters with OEM replacements.
Head bolts won't require anything fancy for a mild NA upgrade. Stock replacements work fine provided you torque them properly in the correct order. If you're a real tinkerer and think you may take the heads off multiple times, then it could be worthwhile to upgrade to ARP bolts which aren't TTY and can be reused. ARPs are over $100 for a set, so definitely a place to save money if you can avoid it.
Exhaust bolts/studs--the OEM bolts are prone to having their heads snapped off due to excessive engine movement. This is usually due to failed motor mounts. I wouldn't bother with anything fancy here either, especially if you have aftermarket poly mounts or have recently replaced your stock mounts with quality parts. Some people swear by studs because they provide hangers that help when installing, but I never had issue with installing using bolts--it just requires a bit more thought and planning. There are also some inexpensive Chinese made head studs you can buy that won't break the bank and offer the same benefits.
Exhaust manifold gaskets - I haven't heard of anything better than the stock MLS gaskets, new or reused. I brushed and cleaned the carbon off of mine and reused my stock parts with headers. Since you're not at risk of pushing fluids, these are well worth reusing. Worst case, you have a slight exhaust leak and need new ones. They're fairly easy to slide in later if absolutely needed.
I would suggest new OEM MLS head gaskets. They're not overly expensive and worth going with over Felpro.
Head bolts won't require anything fancy for a mild NA upgrade. Stock replacements work fine provided you torque them properly in the correct order. If you're a real tinkerer and think you may take the heads off multiple times, then it could be worthwhile to upgrade to ARP bolts which aren't TTY and can be reused. ARPs are over $100 for a set, so definitely a place to save money if you can avoid it.
Exhaust bolts/studs--the OEM bolts are prone to having their heads snapped off due to excessive engine movement. This is usually due to failed motor mounts. I wouldn't bother with anything fancy here either, especially if you have aftermarket poly mounts or have recently replaced your stock mounts with quality parts. Some people swear by studs because they provide hangers that help when installing, but I never had issue with installing using bolts--it just requires a bit more thought and planning. There are also some inexpensive Chinese made head studs you can buy that won't break the bank and offer the same benefits.
Exhaust manifold gaskets - I haven't heard of anything better than the stock MLS gaskets, new or reused. I brushed and cleaned the carbon off of mine and reused my stock parts with headers. Since you're not at risk of pushing fluids, these are well worth reusing. Worst case, you have a slight exhaust leak and need new ones. They're fairly easy to slide in later if absolutely needed.
I would suggest new OEM MLS head gaskets. They're not overly expensive and worth going with over Felpro.
Btw, I might sound totally green at this and that’s bc I’m kinda am. I mean I know engines but I don’t have a lot of experience of taking apart auto engines. I’m a certified Yamaha and Kawasaki tech for pwc and motorcycles and can rebuild those engines with no problem it’s just when I haven’t done anything except for basic stuff for auto. Well I did do a head on my old civic and did the whole lift by myself so I gues not to basic. But mostly the maintenance style things. Basically what I’m saying is thanks for the info and sorry if I ask for to many questions. I just like to do stuff correct so I don’t have issues down the road. I’ve been so many videos and reading stuff and I’m not scared to rip anything apart.
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TFA303 (04-23-2020)
02-07-2019, 08:19 PM
#23
Teching In
Thread Starter
Excellent advice and for what it's worth I bought new manifold gaskets a couple months ago at GM and they were right around $5 a piece.
On the exh manifold studs to have hangers.. I took two old bolts and cut the heads off and then took a cut off wheel and cut a groove in them to be able to stick a flat head screw driver in them. I put one at each end and hang my gasket then the manifold then thread in all the center bolts. Then remove the two studs and put in bolts and tighten em all down.
On the exh manifold studs to have hangers.. I took two old bolts and cut the heads off and then took a cut off wheel and cut a groove in them to be able to stick a flat head screw driver in them. I put one at each end and hang my gasket then the manifold then thread in all the center bolts. Then remove the two studs and put in bolts and tighten em all down.
02-07-2019, 08:43 PM
#24
Wait till you pull an LS apart, you'll never want to work on anything else again. It's probably the easiest engine on the planet to pull apart.
As for pushrods you always want to check but things are so consistent now (manufacturing tolerances) someplace like texas speed can tell you what to run from experience.
As for pushrods you always want to check but things are so consistent now (manufacturing tolerances) someplace like texas speed can tell you what to run from experience.
02-11-2019, 10:53 PM
#25
Teching In
Thread Starter
Lol, all my missing responses finally showed up and the weird part they showed up at the times I sent them. Even the pics of my truck. That is so weird. I wasn’t trying to repeat myself. I’d reply n send and it wouldn’t work so I would rewrite as close as possible. Lol. Wtf. Lol
03-03-2019, 01:39 PM
#27
Teching In
Thread Starter
After taking a closer look I see that there is 3 trans lines. 1-trans to lower pass side rad, 1-trans to external cooler, & 1-external cooler to upper pass side rad. Measured radiator and it is a 34”. So I only need to get some fans and harness.
Also noticed a small weepage coming from the water pump. So I guess the engine stuff might be coming sooner than later.
The 3rd small external cooler I have looks like it goes to the power steering? Didn’t know the PS fluid could get hot to the point it needs a cooler. Left side of radiator is the engine oil cooler side.
Does anyone know the size of the stock alternator? Mine is still the original. Would it be able to power the fans when they get installed?
Also noticed a small weepage coming from the water pump. So I guess the engine stuff might be coming sooner than later.
The 3rd small external cooler I have looks like it goes to the power steering? Didn’t know the PS fluid could get hot to the point it needs a cooler. Left side of radiator is the engine oil cooler side.
Does anyone know the size of the stock alternator? Mine is still the original. Would it be able to power the fans when they get installed?
03-03-2019, 03:14 PM
#28
After taking a closer look I see that there is 3 trans lines. 1-trans to lower pass side rad, 1-trans to external cooler, & 1-external cooler to upper pass side rad. Measured radiator and it is a 34”. So I only need to get some fans and harness.
Also noticed a small weepage coming from the water pump. So I guess the engine stuff might be coming sooner than later.
The 3rd small external cooler I have looks like it goes to the power steering? Didn’t know the PS fluid could get hot to the point it needs a cooler. Left side of radiator is the engine oil cooler side.
Does anyone know the size of the stock alternator? Mine is still the original. Would it be able to power the fans when they get installed?
Also noticed a small weepage coming from the water pump. So I guess the engine stuff might be coming sooner than later.
The 3rd small external cooler I have looks like it goes to the power steering? Didn’t know the PS fluid could get hot to the point it needs a cooler. Left side of radiator is the engine oil cooler side.
Does anyone know the size of the stock alternator? Mine is still the original. Would it be able to power the fans when they get installed?
The stock alternator is usually a 105 amp and the electric fan trucks come with a larger case alternator. You can see the difference by looking at them. The bigger one is 145 amp and you will want that one. The fans pull about 40 amps on high.
And yeah, almost every car in the past 20 or so years has a power steering cooler of some sort. Only reason I know is I'm a tech so I see them a lot.
03-03-2019, 04:05 PM
#29
You want an ACDELCO 3351092 145A replacement if you have the smaller alternator. AD244 type 4 pin alternator. This one, https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...373026&jsn=437
Looks like Amazon has it cheaper, but it's easy to shop around with the part number. Rockauto had it a lot cheaper when I was researching this last year.
Looks like Amazon has it cheaper, but it's easy to shop around with the part number. Rockauto had it a lot cheaper when I was researching this last year.