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Waking up a lq4

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Old 01-31-2019, 06:18 PM
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1500HDs have 4L80s
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ZO6Ted (02-03-2019)
Old 02-01-2019, 04:59 AM
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My .02.

If you don't want to go the blower route:

1. Pull the 317s off and put some 706s on. Trust me on this. Don't port the 317s, it's only going to make it feel more lethargic.
2. Get a good cam. Nothing crazy. Something with an early IVC closing and 706s will make it feel plenty responsive throughout the rpm range.
3. Don't go the l92/ls3 head route. Testing shows and supports that the while the l92/ls3 head DOES flow better, it only makes a difference in the upper rpm's. The same thing with the 799/243s. Where do you spend most of your time in the rpm range?
4. A good tune.

You drive a heavy *** truck. You want low-end and throttle response.
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Old 02-02-2019, 04:56 PM
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Yeah, thanks guys for the info. Lol, I did use paragraphs when I posted up. When I went back to read it was formatted in one big blob. I admit I did get a little talkative. I think it was bc I’m on a iPhone and I wrote it up on the full site style.
I originally thought my lq4 was cathedral port but when I saw the cart I have it showed it as a rectangle port. Had me a little confused when I started to read that some people use the tbss intake n some said it wouldn’t work.
I’ll definitely look into the 706’s. I see their combustion chamber is lower so I guess more compression? If I found head that we’re bare, would it be worth the cost for AM valves, springs n rockers? Or just do OEM?
Yeah my truck has a 4l80 trans. Have to do my filter when it gets warmer & while I’m at it I’ll be replacing the trans lines. They are looking a little rough. Already did brake lines with the OEM kit n SS fuel lines.
Yes the truck is large n heavy. PITA to turn too. When looking at the reviews from back in the day, that was one of the only complaints. I just go to the back of the parking lots.
But as for the power curve, definitely looking for low to mid range. No big top end really.
Old 02-02-2019, 05:04 PM
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Chart that I was following
Old 02-03-2019, 10:04 AM
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DEFINITELY ​​​​​​​put a blower on that
Old 02-05-2019, 06:16 PM
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I don’t get it. I’ve tried using both the full site and mobile site. I’ve tried typing responses back and when I go back there is nothing there. I’ve been on other forums and never have had this issue. Anyone else have issues posting? It took me several time to finally post the picture of my truck and the chart.
Old 02-05-2019, 11:51 PM
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Well I just purchase some 706 heads. Saw a great article on superchevy where they did some extensive head test. 706’s made more compression bc of the smaller ccv. Can the rockers and lifters I have be used or should I look for some better ones? What about head bolts and exhaust studs? ARP? Are AM ones overdoing it? Fel-Pro gaskets, new steam pipe cooling line are next to purchase.
What about switching to an electric fan. I know my year radiator is to small. Have to go to a 34”. Wil the trans lines still work with a bigger radiator? I’m getting ready to buy and change them before they go. I’ve done the brake n fuel lines. Trans are next
Speaking of trans lines. Everything I see shows 3. I have 2 off the trans that go to the radiator and 1 smaller one for the external cooler. Why isn’t there a 4th line coming out of the external cooler?

Last edited by Chrisracerx; 02-06-2019 at 12:57 AM.
Old 02-06-2019, 05:34 PM
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You can reuse everything if you just swap to 706 heads. Might as well do headers exhaust and an good intake on it too.

If you have the HD truck you should already have the 34" radiator, maybe not. Go grab some used fans from a 05+ truck at the junk yard or buy some new and take your fan off and see if the fans lay in there and if the bolt holes are open. There are two sets of holes in the core support on those trucks. The larger radiator uses the outer holes and the fan uses the inner. If your radiator is bolted to the inner holes you have the narrow radiator. When I did the swap I did not have to change any trans lines or anything and I did the swap in a 1500 light duty, so it was actually further from having the right parts than your truck. That being said you shouldn't have to adapt anything. The radiator and fans bolt right in.

When I did the electric fan swap I got a front end wiring harness from a 07 truck if I remember right, and I think it was actually a new body 07, and I cut out all the headlight harness and what was left was the electric fan harness. If you pull your fender bracket off that's above your fuse box and then pull the fuse box cover you'll see where the factory fan harness snaps right on to your existing fuse box. Then you run the hot wire to your fuse box main power lug (big red wire with a nut holding it down) and you run the ground from the stock harness to the bar under your radiator where a ground is already bolted too.

Then there will be two trigger wires for the fan relays. Those need to be tapped into the PCM harness connectors and a tuner can download a fan file into your PCM to control the fans and you'll have full PCM controlled OEM electric fans and wiring, fuses and relays. It's a super sweet setup.
Old 02-06-2019, 11:42 PM
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Thanks, I’ll have to start scoping some of my close junk yards.
Old 02-07-2019, 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Chrisracerx
Can the rockers and lifters I have be used or should I look for some better ones? What about head bolts and exhaust studs? ARP? Are AM ones overdoing it? Fel-Pro gaskets, new steam pipe cooling line are next to purchase.

Rockers and lifters CAN be reused, but if you're building this with longevity in mind, you may as well upgrade the rockers with brass trunion bushings (replacing the needle bearings), and replace the lifters with OEM replacements.

Head bolts won't require anything fancy for a mild NA upgrade. Stock replacements work fine provided you torque them properly in the correct order. If you're a real tinkerer and think you may take the heads off multiple times, then it could be worthwhile to upgrade to ARP bolts which aren't TTY and can be reused. ARPs are over $100 for a set, so definitely a place to save money if you can avoid it.

Exhaust bolts/studs--the OEM bolts are prone to having their heads snapped off due to excessive engine movement. This is usually due to failed motor mounts. I wouldn't bother with anything fancy here either, especially if you have aftermarket poly mounts or have recently replaced your stock mounts with quality parts. Some people swear by studs because they provide hangers that help when installing, but I never had issue with installing using bolts--it just requires a bit more thought and planning. There are also some inexpensive Chinese made head studs you can buy that won't break the bank and offer the same benefits.

Exhaust manifold gaskets - I haven't heard of anything better than the stock MLS gaskets, new or reused. I brushed and cleaned the carbon off of mine and reused my stock parts with headers. Since you're not at risk of pushing fluids, these are well worth reusing. Worst case, you have a slight exhaust leak and need new ones. They're fairly easy to slide in later if absolutely needed.

I would suggest new OEM MLS head gaskets. They're not overly expensive and worth going with over Felpro.


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