Got mounting plates in on Monday. Waiting until 5.3L gets picked up. In the meantime, I listed my Hypertech PPIII on eBay, in hopes to get enough to add to my stash of cash to get a Comp cam & springs to put in the 5.3L while it's not mounted (no charge from my mechanic).

I'm getting advise to change the TC before mating trans to engine. What's the benefit of getting a moderate to high stall versus stock?

**NOTE: I'm new to the idea of high performance enhancements.

 

Engine's supposed to be delivered tomorrow evening. The BRP AM brackets can be mounted to the block w/ stock 4.3 mounts bolted to AM brakcets. Move the frame brackets up (approx. 2"), and I should be set.

For a related article (with some differences), check out www.hotrodlane.cc under the "projects" section. There was an LS1 swap in a '77 C10. I'm told the mounting differences are b/c of mounting brackets (plates).

 

Funny, I am working at about the same pace on my 93. I just ordered (like this morning) a set of generic V8 motor mounts ($27/pair new and delivered from a dude on eBAY). I made up adapter brackets on the block side to use Gen-I small block engine mount brackets on the block side. Those are painted and on the engine now. I need to find a truck accessort bracket, install it, the alternator, and the PS pump, and the motor is dressed. All I need after that is to hack up the harness, drop in a high pressure pump, rework the fuel lines, and see what happens.

I found an LS1 Camaro trans, we'll see if it's any good, fluid looked good, I am crossing my fingers on that one.

Seeing as how my current trans is blowing fluid at the rate of ~10 miles/quart, I think it's time to accelerate the swap.

 

Sounds like nice project if you can get us some pics of the swap! that would also be a good write up project. Id say you should have plenty of room for a radiator and a/c system. Just use dual electric fans, I have a 4 core radiator in my truck with a/c condenser but i have the a/c compressor removed for now its winter an i was racing so no need for it at this time. I have a ZZ4 ho crate motor in my 85 an there is plenty of room under the hood of these trucks you shouldnt really have any probs in that area. Good luck with your swap!

 

beer... My TH350 was dumpin the same amount of fluid! Found that I didn't tighten the pan gasket tight enuff when I changed the fluid (after 50K miles). Plus, it would kick down from 3rd to 2nd, out of the blue. That's where things kicked off for me. I later found that I had a couple of vacuum lines collapsed.

No turning back now! Keeping my eyes on the prize!

 

Yeah, I have been chasing this for a feww weeks. I thought the splice to the cooler lines I did were leaking.. nope. Then I thought the front seals were going, pulled the converter shield, and did not see a plethora of fluid everywhere (think spinning converter throwing it everywhere)... nope. Then I checked the pan bolts, and some were loose. SO I torqued them to 8 ft-# spec, and drove it around town for a bit. Looked good. Then, I took it on a 40 mile run to pick up some Impala SS wheels.... SMOKE!!!!!!!!!! I fogged the road pretty good. I hate to say it, but I was "one of those hoopties" I often see here in the Detroit area. Smoking like they are skywriting, and leaving a 1/4 mile long trail. Logic/Economics prevailed. Either fog it down the road for 20 more miles to get it home and use up $8.00 worth of Dex-III, or pull over and pay $100 to tow it..... Economics won out. Around town, it did not leak fluid, it seems that the only time it does it is at highway speeds, so either it is load dependent, or only when the Conver clutch is locked up, which makes me think one of the hard seals on the input shaft went. I think there's an orifice in the input shaft between two of those seals for sending fluid to the TCC clutch...

I just found out I have 11 days vacation to burn up before the end of the year, and my company has paid holiday from 12/24-1/2, so it looks like I'll have about 3 weeks off here soon. Either I use it or lose it. If honey-do's don't get out of hand, I might get this done before the end of the year...

 

Damn... Mine did the same. When I tighted the pan bolts, they didn't leeak. However, the trans still slipped. That's why we assumed the collapsed line was at fault. All wife knows is that:

truck doesn't run right = get new engine & trans

Case Closed! Good luck with the Honey-Do's. I know the feeling.

 

Aiight... TTT...

Motor's out, and underhood has been pressure washed, sanded, and primed/painted. Things don't look bad for the use of inexpensive materials. Had 19yrs worth of oil residue. Yuck!

Check it out:


In the process of pulling V6, this happened :


Not to worry, the local Wally-World had a repair kit ($10):


Over the past month, it's been all about putting together everything I have:


Still have to drain the trans fluid, install some new goodies while it's open, change the oil & filter, find a few more bolts for the coil pack rails, torque the engine mount & trans bolts to specs, and get a trans mount. I'll be looking at the trans crossmember sometime this week. Seems my TH350 is longer (due to 9.5" tail shaft) than my 4L60E. This'll be interesting how I fab this to work. The next thing would be to get that god-awful stock fan off the WP.

Wiring hasn't been looked into much yet. That'll be my next task after I'm satisfied with the powertrain sitting in the truck. More to come...

Stay tuned...

 

I was able to use my stock drivehsaft from my old 305/th350(9" tailshaft) setup. It worked like it was made for it.

 

Looks good! I have to get going on getting my harness figured out, and then the fuel system. Once I have a good idea on what I am doing there, I'll bring the truck in from the cold and get to tearing out the motor/trans. I have the motor up for sale (TBI 4.3L), and want to keep it in the truck to show it runs before I pull it. Usually adds credibility, and reduces haggling.

Hey, if you are not going to use that fan, I'll take it off your hands.