V6 to V8 swap for '86 C10
01-01-2006, 04:03 PM
#31
Launching!
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: San Marcos Texas
Posts: 249
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by ZRO26T
Yep... I see some notchin's been done. Got any other pics? I was thinking LS1 instead of 5.3, but was convinced to stick with the 5.3. May graduate to the 6.0 when the 6.2s start floating around enuff, til the older 6s are cheap enough to warrant spending the time & money. Got a couple buddies talking about the 6.2s & 6L80s. Not willing to spend $3K on a 6-spd.
01-01-2006, 04:30 PM
#32
On The Tree
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Deeeeeeetroit
Posts: 131
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yours
Mine
There's no way the AC bracket would ever fit if I used mine. If I had that installed, I would have already realized that these brackets would not work..
Looks like I am going to have to re-think this. My logic is to see if I can make this fit with the least amount of mods, so I think I might try to figure out where the trans needs to sit for the driveshaft to remain untouched, and then figure out my brackets from there. I guess I am crawling under my truck tonight to see if I can get some measurements from the trans mount to the back of the block, and go from there. It also probably does not help that the engine cradle you are dealing with looks VERY different than the 88-99 chassis. I'll snap a few pics of that too.
This is why I love the internet. Free exchange of ideas...
Mine
There's no way the AC bracket would ever fit if I used mine. If I had that installed, I would have already realized that these brackets would not work..
Looks like I am going to have to re-think this. My logic is to see if I can make this fit with the least amount of mods, so I think I might try to figure out where the trans needs to sit for the driveshaft to remain untouched, and then figure out my brackets from there. I guess I am crawling under my truck tonight to see if I can get some measurements from the trans mount to the back of the block, and go from there. It also probably does not help that the engine cradle you are dealing with looks VERY different than the 88-99 chassis. I'll snap a few pics of that too.
This is why I love the internet. Free exchange of ideas...
01-01-2006, 05:38 PM
#33
formerly 1BADC10 (12/14/2011)
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: TX
Posts: 2,135
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Free exchange, yea... someone told me I should put together I manual, and market it. Whaddaya think those guys do with the custom harnesses? Anyhow... I'd be curious to see what the dimensions your brackets are. Looks similar to mine, but mounted backwards. The way you have them, the motor would bang against the firewall of my '86. How deep can you go before the firewall becomes a problem?
Here's a rough sketch of my plates (done wit MS Paint, don't laugh). The red blotches are where the 4 holes are to bolt the plate to the block. The blue X's are where the 3 holes are to bolt the motor mount bracket to. Install them in that order.
The dimensions may be similar to yours. **Note: The pointed tip on my brackets are shown the way I mounted them on the driver's side of the block (pointed end pointing to the firewall. Post up details of what ya got.
Here's a rough sketch of my plates (done wit MS Paint, don't laugh). The red blotches are where the 4 holes are to bolt the plate to the block. The blue X's are where the 3 holes are to bolt the motor mount bracket to. Install them in that order.
The dimensions may be similar to yours. **Note: The pointed tip on my brackets are shown the way I mounted them on the driver's side of the block (pointed end pointing to the firewall. Post up details of what ya got.
Last edited by 95ImpSS; 01-01-2006 at 09:24 PM.
01-02-2006, 02:45 PM
#34
On The Tree
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Deeeeeeetroit
Posts: 131
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My brackets
OK, here are the "drawings" of the bracket I made, and the other one I was told about.
Here is one that I was told would move the motor forward more in the chassis.
If you overlay these to the pic you have, it looks like yours is drilled for both of the above brackets. I think I am going to redrill my plates with the second pattern and see how that ends up.
BTW, for anybody else watching this thread, the 3.125 dimension is a little too big, I actually had to oval the hole out a bit to get the bolts to thread. I'll post a better dimension when I re-measure in a bit here.
Here is one that I was told would move the motor forward more in the chassis.
If you overlay these to the pic you have, it looks like yours is drilled for both of the above brackets. I think I am going to redrill my plates with the second pattern and see how that ends up.
BTW, for anybody else watching this thread, the 3.125 dimension is a little too big, I actually had to oval the hole out a bit to get the bolts to thread. I'll post a better dimension when I re-measure in a bit here.
01-02-2006, 06:15 PM
#36
formerly 1BADC10 (12/14/2011)
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: TX
Posts: 2,135
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
*edit* - changed stated direction, see bold print. Sorry.
beertestr...
The SECOND plate was the one you should've gotten. I wish that was available, but I'm good to go now. With the first bracket you posted seems like your engine would be mounted too far backward. I have about a 1-2 inch clearance where my radiator and e-fans will mount. Good luck with the drilling! It's only two more holes on each bracket. Post up some pics when you're done (before you bolt brackets back on. I forgot to do that, so I ended up sketchin in MS Paint (pics not professional... ha ha ha).
Top View
Front Clearance
Rear Clearance
beertestr...
The SECOND plate was the one you should've gotten. I wish that was available, but I'm good to go now. With the first bracket you posted seems like your engine would be mounted too far backward. I have about a 1-2 inch clearance where my radiator and e-fans will mount. Good luck with the drilling! It's only two more holes on each bracket. Post up some pics when you're done (before you bolt brackets back on. I forgot to do that, so I ended up sketchin in MS Paint (pics not professional... ha ha ha).
Top View
Front Clearance
Rear Clearance
Last edited by 95ImpSS; 01-03-2006 at 07:01 AM.
01-02-2006, 06:29 PM
#37
formerly 1BADC10 (12/14/2011)
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: TX
Posts: 2,135
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by GMChasLS1
I've got tons of pics, what would you like to see? LS2 might be my next choice, maybe the next conversion will get one. Six speed auto would be fun too, let the prices come down a little. I'd still like to try a Duramax in a C10-C15 to make some big smokey power. I still think it is magic the first time you start up that new setup and drive it around. You are getting close to that.
01-02-2006, 09:02 PM
#38
On The Tree
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Deeeeeeetroit
Posts: 131
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
brackets and harness.
The way I have the plate mounted, the motor will sit WAY back in the chassis, if you look at the pic I posted, 350 engine bracket is way forward, such that it would interfere with the AC compressor. If I flipped the bracket side-side, I would end up with it too far forward as was mentioned. I fully had plans to go out into the shop today, but ended spending more time looking at the wiring harness, and the schematics.
I went to the boneyard on Friday to get some wiring bits from a TBI truck. Luckily for me, the junkyard cut the TBI harness to get the motor out. So, I have the positive battery lead junction block, the firewall grommet, the connectors into the old PCM (not going to need), about 18" of wire from the passenger side grommet, and another 18" or so of the connector coming out of the firewall beside the brake booster. The brake booster side connector seems to have power distribution for key switch state, and the crank signal, while the passenger side has the leads for the VSS, VSS buffer, and the guages. I got the underhood fuse panel from a 2001 Suburban, so I am going to make my splices up stream of that. If I can get power to the fuel pump, and get the crank signals figured out, I will deem myself ready to install the motor. I figure the power from the battery clips in, all of the power distribution for the PCM is through the UBEC (Underhood Body Electrical Center is what it stands for I think), so I think it will be a simpler hookup. We'll see though, maybe it's more work than it's worth. More later.
What did everybody else
Since the truck is EFI already, I have fuel lines capable of the 45 psi. Seems that the TBI fuel lines (~14 psi) and the Vortec lines (45 psi) are the same, the fuel pump is the only difference.
I am going to take some more measurements of a spare 4L60E I have, and the LT1 I have to see if the plates make the most sense. In all reality, if I can drop this trans in where the old one was, and not have to mod the driveshaft while clearing everything else, I'd be set..
I went to the boneyard on Friday to get some wiring bits from a TBI truck. Luckily for me, the junkyard cut the TBI harness to get the motor out. So, I have the positive battery lead junction block, the firewall grommet, the connectors into the old PCM (not going to need), about 18" of wire from the passenger side grommet, and another 18" or so of the connector coming out of the firewall beside the brake booster. The brake booster side connector seems to have power distribution for key switch state, and the crank signal, while the passenger side has the leads for the VSS, VSS buffer, and the guages. I got the underhood fuse panel from a 2001 Suburban, so I am going to make my splices up stream of that. If I can get power to the fuel pump, and get the crank signals figured out, I will deem myself ready to install the motor. I figure the power from the battery clips in, all of the power distribution for the PCM is through the UBEC (Underhood Body Electrical Center is what it stands for I think), so I think it will be a simpler hookup. We'll see though, maybe it's more work than it's worth. More later.
What did everybody else
Since the truck is EFI already, I have fuel lines capable of the 45 psi. Seems that the TBI fuel lines (~14 psi) and the Vortec lines (45 psi) are the same, the fuel pump is the only difference.
I am going to take some more measurements of a spare 4L60E I have, and the LT1 I have to see if the plates make the most sense. In all reality, if I can drop this trans in where the old one was, and not have to mod the driveshaft while clearing everything else, I'd be set..
01-03-2006, 09:42 AM
#40
12 Second Truck Club
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Sittin on jackstands
Posts: 5,230
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
2 Posts
Ron, I have a few fan harnesses at the house if you can wait a month or two 
Looks good though. I'm interested in knowing what problems you encounter with the wiring. Im interested in dropping my motor into my 76 and building a um just another for my white truck. 
Looks good though. I'm interested in knowing what problems you encounter with the wiring. Im interested in dropping my motor into my 76 and building a um just another for my white truck.