Well I can honestly say that I've done quite a bit of "searching", "browseing", and "lurkeing" to come up with this combo. First off we're dealing with a 99' Z71 Extended Cab 5.3 Auto which is utilized for our business. I have recently slatted our truck to be the new tow truck for our 24' enclosed trailer (5000# Axles) for TPC Racing, which again is business related. See my profile if you're curious.

So does this look like a killer tow package: Remember "strictly" naturally aspirated tow vehichle.

6" Skyjacker Lift (315s) w/Rear Air-bags
Doug Thorley Tri-Y Headers
Existing Flowmaster exhaust- Custom side exit
Yank T3000 Converter (Best tow version)
Tranny Cooler
(Possibly getting a new tranny all together from Yank) Opinions?
Dual Flex-Fan kit
4:10 Gears
Existing "Free Mods"
COMP Cam (Any thoughts on this one?)
New COMP Springs (just want to refresh my motor for the cam)
Upgrade to New MAF Sensor
Wester Tune (when all is said and done)

So could one honestly say I'm on the right track here? How about cam recommendations? Any and all opinions welcome.

Thank you in advance everybody.

~Ty

 

looks like your on the right track. do you wanna stay N/A or maybe slap on a blower? but i would def. scrap the MAF....i thnk everyone will back me up and say it aint worth it

 

So basically just pop the screen out and call it a day? Not worth the $40.00 per HP ratio

 

Trick MAF's make power by changing the A/F ratio. Not by improved flow until you hit 400rwhp. Sometimes you lose power. If you want to change the A/F, do it right with programming.

If I was going to make a LS1 for a tow vehicle...

408ci (6.0 block with stroker kit), shift kit, trans cooler, RV tq convertor, a 224 cam, free flowing mufflers, and the 4.10's/posi. Pull trees out by the roots.

Understand that a 24' enclosed with car and spares is about 8,000 lbs. To get good acceleration and mileage you will need solid punch from 2000 rpm. You will probably REALLY work a high stall convertor with that much weight in stop and go in the summer. Probably kill the trans early from heat.

You will need an equalizing hitch and a sway bar (because your truck is lightweight). E-rated tires will improve mileage and wear, and improve handling when towing.

Personally, I'd refrain from putting a lift and huge tires on for towing. Ever see 6-7 mpg hwy at 70? You will. Or lower. Since your fuel tank ain't so big, you'll go 2-3 hrs before refueling.

IMO...

 

That's the plan.

The stroker route is a pipe dream at this point. If the motor goes south believe me...an Iron/Aluminum mix is not far from the tool box.



This is my "BIGGEST"!!!!! worry...cooking the transmission. My goal here is to prevent the option of getting a larger truck which may be better suited...Diesel, HD tranny, etc... If I could just keep the transmission from cooking but still 'work' within the RPM band of the motor I'd be happy...and so would my pocket book.

I've honestly never heard of these. Hmmm....Can I get them in 285? I'll definitely look into this. Thanks!


Seariously though...I've been tossing this around for about 7 months now. Lift or not to lift? A large factor that's leading me to the lift are the rear leaf springs on our pick-up. They are completely trashed...and nearly de-arched from over-towing. The last tractor we towed it nearly sagged the *** so much I had to flip the hitch. So.....I thought about just buying the lift....but then again you mention a good and valid point....It's not like the trailer is doing enough to my mileage that I need to add bigger tires and a higher COG. Maybe I'll option for the newer National Springs rear leafs with a airbag helper...

Hey thanks for the objective insight here. It's definitely got me thinking. Not to mention the cost savings.

~Ty

 

I have about 35000 miles towing a 7500+ lb enclosed car trailer and my trans is still holding up (66K total miles). The key is a good PCM tune, LT headers, Air intake, and looking down the road. You might look at rear sping helpers also, I have the Air Lift system on my Yukon and it works out fine. When I first hitch the trailer -with equalizers- I drop a good 2-3 inches. Load up the air lift and I am back to normal ride height. This is also a safety issue when you need to stop fast. If your front end is raised, the biggest brakes are working the least....

 

If you are building a true "tow vehicle" I wouldnt change the converter. The lower the stall, the better when you are towing. With a load like that, you will find that you just keep revving the truck up and arent going anywhere. I have a 4000lb boat and my 3000 stall is a little too much, but i dont tow that much so ill deal with it. I wouldnt even try to move that much weight with my truck the way it is now.

I would take all the money you are planning on putting into the truck, and buy a 6.0 long block. Or maybe even a short block and just use your 5.3 heads. If you really want to increase your torque this would be the best thing to do, besides a blower.

 

Add tuning to your list and take the MAF off. If you are dead set on a new converter, step down to a Yank TT2600. That would be a lot ,pre well suited to your towing needs. Maybe a small cam and and some head work would benefitr well. I like the 6.0 idea. Maybe some 4.10's too. You might even look at swapping out an 80e tranny. I would go with a replacement stock spring and the helper bags.

 

would skip the lift. with 35's , 4.56's n/a my truck was a dog, felt like i lost half my torque and i have a 6.0. i pull a 7k toy hauler, i rmoved the overloads for non towing ride quality and added air bags, with my weight distribution hitch and 50psi in the bags + 400 lbs of crap in the bed my rear does not drop an inch. if i had it to do all over again i would just get the duramax/allison which may be a better option. you might throw alot of money at that truck and still be unhappy with the performance and mileage and if you smoke a tranny you'll really be pissed. good luck with that.e

 

If changing gears, get 4.56 over 4.10's. I have 4.10's and 35's and wish I had 4.56's. Also the difference between 285's and 315's killed my power, so I recommend getting 33's over 35's if you lift your truck and plan to tow. I would also get the biggest baddest tranny cooler you can get, overkill in this area may save your tranny. Most importantly, if your truck doesn't have a tranny temp gauge get one. In any case, a gas engine just won't do what a diesel will so you might be able to use the money that you would spend on your truck and get a duramax, powerstroke, or cummins. You can make a diesel run with just a chip, but can still add propane and nitrous to make it bad ***. Good luck.