They just about will. I started the install of my StainlessWorks headers and catted y-pipe this afternoon (after it stopped raining), and it went pretty well. Only clearance hiccup is on the passenger's side...one of the primary tubes just lays on the frame a tad, but it seems fixable. I don't have any pics yet, but I will real soon, and I plan to send Al at SW some shots so he can make the necessary adjustments. I'm also sending him my old pass side Gibson shortie so he can make the measurements for the EGR for those of you who need it.

It's so close, I can almost probably tweak it with a prybar...I was able to pry it away, but then it springs right back. I haven't done the y-pipe yet, plan to finish that off tomorrow, and bring my digital throw aways to CVS to get the pics developed.

Installation has been a piece of cake so far. The driver's side slid right in from the bottom (there's so much room that it would slide right back down if I didn't wedge it temporarily). I didn't even unbolt the steering shaft. The pass side went in from the top. I had to remove the coil packs (and oil dipstick tube of course), but that's it. I didn't even undo my Volant CAI or anything. I scratched up the valve cover a tad, but I really don't care to much about that...if you have your valve covers powder coated or polished, you'd probably be better off removing that valve cover.

As with most long tubes, the trans cooler lines should be tweaked slightly also as they just about rest on the pass side header.

Oh yea, and since I have a 4x4 with 33's, I haven't used a floor jack for anything yet. They factory y-pipe came right out, and as I mentioned before, the left side header slid right in. The left rear O2 sensor didn't come out very smoothly, the threads are all boogered up...but I'll figure something out with that tomorrow. I don't have a die that big...maybe some creative filing or a trip to AutoZone for a new one...(my rear O2's are only for show anyway )

I'll have more info tomorrow after I do the y-pipe, and hopefully I'll get some pics developed from my throw-away digital. (I have a digital camera, just haven't had a chance to set it up yet, load the program into the computer, etc....been so buzy it's a miracle I found the time for today's install)

So far, so good

 

...oh yea, and I fired it up with the open headers just to hear it It was about 9:30 at night and brought my father in-law running out of the house to remind me of the time. Told him I had to fire it up to heat up the headers to try and tweak the one on the r/s

 

Just FYI, on the O2's you can use the rears, just pull the pins in the connectors out and use the front connector with the rear sensor. With my Pacesetters, I did both from the bottom, but I guess I should have tried teh Pass side from the top. Oh well. Good luck tweaking that tube. I got a BFH if you were closer. Its pretty mutch guaranteed to work that problem out for you Once I get my tranny back in, I guess Ill have to fire mine up with the open headers just so I can say I did

 

Pics dam you!! I want pics. Glad they went in smooth. Id like to see how close that primary is to the frame though.

 

Good deal, there's going to be a lot of happy people when you get it all done! Can't wait to see and hear them.

 

I'm not too good at taking pictures, and it was dark, but I hope this helps:





I tried to get tricky and I took a tie down strap, and ran it from the header to the driver's side torsion bar to pull the header off the frame. Then I bolted all the y-pipe parts together hoping that by some chance it would stay that way...not a chance. It sprung right back when I let the tie down go.

The y-pipe was a bit more challenging than the headers believe it or not. Trying to get everything lined up and looking good at the same time took some work. When I finally got it together, the Gibson cat-back was pushed back about an inch or 2. (I unbolted the whole cat-back as it made it easier to get the Y junction in). It started getting late and I my shoulder and elbow was pretty sore, so I took the easy way out. Since I plan on installing an x-pipe and dumped Magnaflows anyway, I just removed (mauled) the tailpipes off the Gibson and left it that way. Needless to say, between the LT's and lack of tailpipes, it's alot louder than it was...I like it.

Took er out on the highway, and I don't know if it's the placebo affect, the 59* ambient temp, or if LT's make that much of a difference, but it runs real good. I definitely feel a difference throughout the entire powerband.

I haven't noticed any banging from the header on the frame either....haven't hooked up my cheapo scanner to see if I'm getting any knock retard, but it sure doesn't feel like it.

All in all, I'm very happy with the results

 

A few more pics...

Driver's side




Driver's side bottom


Flippin the bird to my leaking front pinion shaft seal


I tried to get some pics of the pass side bottom, but for some reason, they didn't come out. I did start another throw away digi though, and they might be on there...I'll see what I can do about finishing those shots and gettin em up.

 

Dam. That primary in that pic looks like it is very much on the rail! Hope Al can maybe provide some insight or advice.

 

I like the blue and red wire loom Silver99, whats the chances of them fitting better on your truck with it being a 2wd? Ive been told the frame horns from the cab forward are different, but I dont know for sure. I know my Pacesetters arent that close anywhere, but they arent as nice eigther. Let us know what you end up doing. BTW they looks nice

 

I'm thinking about shimming the perch for the motor mount if it's possible...I haven't looked at it too closely yet, but it looks like 3 bolts, a floor jack and block of wood under the engine, and some strong washers or alignment shims, and I just might get the clearance I need. I haven't checked the clearance with it in gear...funny, I don't hear or feel any banging when I drive it.