Stroke out My 4.8 to 5.3
Jun 18, 2004 | 08:21 PM
#11
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 122
Likes: 0
From: BOSSIER CITY LOUISIANA
Originally Posted by whitt1
Carazycutter4.8 there's absolutely no way a 4.8 or 5.3 will accomodate a 4"bore.
Jun 18, 2004 | 08:24 PM
#12
Find a good set of LS1 rods, pistons, and crank. Then have your 4.8 / 5.3 block bored out to 99mm. That would give you a iron block 5.7 liter motor. Only costs are the bore / hone, used LS1 rotating, and new gaskets.
Jun 19, 2004 | 10:35 AM
#13
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,107
Likes: 2
From: Albuquerque, NM
Originally Posted by BigTex
Find a good set of LS1 rods, pistons, and crank. Then have your 4.8 / 5.3 block bored out to 99mm. That would give you a iron block 5.7 liter motor. Only costs are the bore / hone, used LS1 rotating, and new gaskets.
As far as going to 4.00", it might be a little thin. Most of the side/side bores sonic checked around 0.250" but the top/bottom ones were around 0.160". Another 0.100" might be chancy especially if you use gas or FI. General rule of thumb is no less than 0.150" of wall thickness.
The 5.3L shortie for $150 is an awesome price, IF you don't need to do much to freshen it up. The truck blocks are notorious for spinning main/rod bearings. You would only need a head/cam gasket kit then. SDPC sells them for around $250 and has all the gaskets and crank bolt.
The other route is like you thought, get a crank and rods from ANY other LS1 style motor. The 5.3, 5.7, and 6.0L motors all use the exact same crank/rod assemblies. Lots of them out there from stroker conversions. You would then only need to add some bearings to the list. If your motor is below 50K miles you can get away with re-using the original gaskets. They are rubber coated crush style that are very good and easy to reuse. Only one you may consider is the water pump pair. Cheap insurance.
Last, I have a stock 3.622" crank, 5.3L rods, and main/rod bearings if you decide to go that way. Weight would be around 60# coming from ZC 87114, NM. You can have them all for $150 plus shipping.
Jun 19, 2004 | 01:29 PM
#14
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
From: Murfreesboro, TN
Thanks A Lot!!
Originally Posted by ktmrider
Yep, the 99mm cut works great. I know cuz I just did it and have the sonic checksheet to prove it.
As far as going to 4.00", it might be a little thin. Most of the side/side bores sonic checked around 0.250" but the top/bottom ones were around 0.160". Another 0.100" might be chancy especially if you use gas or FI. General rule of thumb is no less than 0.150" of wall thickness.
The 5.3L shortie for $150 is an awesome price, IF you don't need to do much to freshen it up. The truck blocks are notorious for spinning main/rod bearings. You would only need a head/cam gasket kit then. SDPC sells them for around $250 and has all the gaskets and crank bolt.
The other route is like you thought, get a crank and rods from ANY other LS1 style motor. The 5.3, 5.7, and 6.0L motors all use the exact same crank/rod assemblies. Lots of them out there from stroker conversions. You would then only need to add some bearings to the list. If your motor is below 50K miles you can get away with re-using the original gaskets. They are rubber coated crush style that are very good and easy to reuse. Only one you may consider is the water pump pair. Cheap insurance.
Last, I have a stock 3.622" crank, 5.3L rods, and main/rod bearings if you decide to go that way. Weight would be around 60# coming from ZC 87114, NM. You can have them all for $150 plus shipping.
As far as going to 4.00", it might be a little thin. Most of the side/side bores sonic checked around 0.250" but the top/bottom ones were around 0.160". Another 0.100" might be chancy especially if you use gas or FI. General rule of thumb is no less than 0.150" of wall thickness.
The 5.3L shortie for $150 is an awesome price, IF you don't need to do much to freshen it up. The truck blocks are notorious for spinning main/rod bearings. You would only need a head/cam gasket kit then. SDPC sells them for around $250 and has all the gaskets and crank bolt.
The other route is like you thought, get a crank and rods from ANY other LS1 style motor. The 5.3, 5.7, and 6.0L motors all use the exact same crank/rod assemblies. Lots of them out there from stroker conversions. You would then only need to add some bearings to the list. If your motor is below 50K miles you can get away with re-using the original gaskets. They are rubber coated crush style that are very good and easy to reuse. Only one you may consider is the water pump pair. Cheap insurance.
Last, I have a stock 3.622" crank, 5.3L rods, and main/rod bearings if you decide to go that way. Weight would be around 60# coming from ZC 87114, NM. You can have them all for $150 plus shipping.
Jun 19, 2004 | 04:59 PM
#15
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 122
Likes: 0
From: BOSSIER CITY LOUISIANA
Originally Posted by ktmrider
Yep, the 99mm cut works great. I know cuz I just did it and have the sonic checksheet to prove it.
As far as going to 4.00", it might be a little thin. Most of the side/side bores sonic checked around 0.250" but the top/bottom ones were around 0.160". Another 0.100" might be chancy especially if you use gas or FI. General rule of thumb is no less than 0.150" of wall thickness.
The 5.3L shortie for $150 is an awesome price, IF you don't need to do much to freshen it up. The truck blocks are notorious for spinning main/rod bearings. You would only need a head/cam gasket kit then. SDPC sells them for around $250 and has all the gaskets and crank bolt.
The other route is like you thought, get a crank and rods from ANY other LS1 style motor. The 5.3, 5.7, and 6.0L motors all use the exact same crank/rod assemblies. Lots of them out there from stroker conversions. You would then only need to add some bearings to the list. If your motor is below 50K miles you can get away with re-using the original gaskets. They are rubber coated crush style that are very good and easy to reuse. Only one you may consider is the water pump pair. Cheap insurance.
Last, I have a stock 3.622" crank, 5.3L rods, and main/rod bearings if you decide to go that way. Weight would be around 60# coming from ZC 87114, NM. You can have them all for $150 plus shipping.
As far as going to 4.00", it might be a little thin. Most of the side/side bores sonic checked around 0.250" but the top/bottom ones were around 0.160". Another 0.100" might be chancy especially if you use gas or FI. General rule of thumb is no less than 0.150" of wall thickness.
The 5.3L shortie for $150 is an awesome price, IF you don't need to do much to freshen it up. The truck blocks are notorious for spinning main/rod bearings. You would only need a head/cam gasket kit then. SDPC sells them for around $250 and has all the gaskets and crank bolt.
The other route is like you thought, get a crank and rods from ANY other LS1 style motor. The 5.3, 5.7, and 6.0L motors all use the exact same crank/rod assemblies. Lots of them out there from stroker conversions. You would then only need to add some bearings to the list. If your motor is below 50K miles you can get away with re-using the original gaskets. They are rubber coated crush style that are very good and easy to reuse. Only one you may consider is the water pump pair. Cheap insurance.
Last, I have a stock 3.622" crank, 5.3L rods, and main/rod bearings if you decide to go that way. Weight would be around 60# coming from ZC 87114, NM. You can have them all for $150 plus shipping.
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