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StainlessWorks pics part 2

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Old Apr 8, 2006 | 03:51 PM
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Default StainlessWorks pics part 2

I added these pics to the original thread https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...d.php?t=362456, but thought I'd start a new one also just in case so the pics were on the first page....

I was able to get the truck on a lift after work on Tues. night this week (that's our shop night when the boss let's us bring in our own vehicles)

I gotta say, it's been a week and I love the performance increase I feel, and the quality of this system is awesome...I looks exactly like the picture on their website when you remove it from the box.

Eventually when I do the 6.0 swap, the y junction will be removed and an x-pipe installed with dual 2.5" pipes going into dual 14" long 4" round Magnaflows dumped before the axle.














Another look at the pass side clearance...

underneath:




This pic makes the pipe look banged up, but it really isn't. It's a little marked from prying, and has some anti-sieze from my fingers on it...I actually freaked out when I first saw the pic and crawled back under my truck to take a look and make sure. After some wiping with a rag it was back to normal...must be an optical thing...(I'm not the best photographer)




Another optical illusion...that primary is nowhere near that a/c line, it's just the angle of the pic from underneath.


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Last edited by budhayes3; Apr 8, 2006 at 05:42 PM.
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Old Apr 8, 2006 | 06:19 PM
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I have about 1/8" clearance between the frame and pipe. Not sure if it rubs. I do hear something knock when making left turns. Really wouldn't want to squish/bend the pipe down with a pry bar. Did you use a seal between the Y and your exhaust pipe? Looks closed up pretty tight.
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Old Apr 8, 2006 | 06:55 PM
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You might want to check the bolt that is going through your steering arm from your steering column to your rack and pinion, it may be interfering with the driver's side header. I had to remove my factory bolt and nut plate and install a shorter bolt cause the bolt was hitting my SLP shorty headers whenever I turned the steering wheel.
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Old Apr 8, 2006 | 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by DrX
I have about 1/8" clearance between the frame and pipe. Not sure if it rubs. I do hear something knock when making left turns. Really wouldn't want to squish/bend the pipe down with a pry bar. Did you use a seal between the Y and your exhaust pipe? Looks closed up pretty tight.
I didn't use a seal between the y and catback...it's a Gibson cat-back and is shaped like the donut gasket that would normally be used. I was gonna put some hi-temp silicone on the junction, but was running out of time so I bolted it up and let it slide...got lucky and so far no leaks.

I wasn't too keen on prying, but I was attempting to move the entire header assembly as opposed to squishing the pipe. The pipe did get a little marked up and dimpled slightly, but nothing major. Unfortunately my prying attempt didn't achieve the desired affect...the header would move off the frame but just spring right back.
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Old Apr 8, 2006 | 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Little 5.3 Wulf Truck
You might want to check the bolt that is going through your steering arm from your steering column to your rack and pinion, it may be interfering with the driver's side header. I had to remove my factory bolt and nut plate and install a shorter bolt cause the bolt was hitting my SLP shorty headers whenever I turned the steering wheel.
I had a similar problem with my Gibson shorties...wasn't hitting the bolt but the shaft itself. I solved it by loosening and adjusting the gear box angle, which actually made the steering shaft turn truer. (Had to perform a wheel alignment also), It would only happen on tight turns, under certain conditions, like taking off from a stop or in a parking lot. Funny how much more clearance I have with the steering shaft with the SW longtubes.
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Old Apr 8, 2006 | 07:14 PM
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Looks good man. Couple of questions.

1) Is that 3" exhaust that you are running?
2) What kind of clamps did you use to connect the headers to the Y?
3) Did you use the stock cats on that? If so did you cut the cats out of the stock Y and then have to expand the ends to get it to 3"?
4) If they aren't stock cats which ones did you end up going with?

Thanks,
Andrew
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Old Apr 8, 2006 | 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by budhayes3
I didn't use a seal between the y and catback...it's a Gibson cat-back and is shaped like the donut gasket that would normally be used. I was gonna put some hi-temp silicone on the junction, but was running out of time so I bolted it up and let it slide...got lucky and so far no leaks.

I wasn't too keen on prying, but I was attempting to move the entire header assembly as opposed to squishing the pipe. The pipe did get a little marked up and dimpled slightly, but nothing major. Unfortunately my prying attempt didn't achieve the desired affect...the header would move off the frame but just spring right back.
I really was referring to myself when I said "I wouldn't want to...." Maybe I should have said "don't" want to....
I did try a little prying as well but backed off when it didn't look like anything was going to move. Didn't want any kinks in those nice new pipes. Sounds like we had the same experience.
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Old Apr 8, 2006 | 07:29 PM
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Yeah, are those the SW cats? I got the ORY. So much for my mild mannered Corsa Touring! It's still very quiet cruising, but loud as hell when I stomp on it.
I have to be carefull no unsuspecting motorist is beside me when I hit it. Don't want to cause an accident.
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Old Apr 8, 2006 | 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by agreif
Looks good man. Couple of questions.

1) Is that 3" exhaust that you are running?
2) What kind of clamps did you use to connect the headers to the Y?
3) Did you use the stock cats on that? If so did you cut the cats out of the stock Y and then have to expand the ends to get it to 3"?
4) If they aren't stock cats which ones did you end up going with?

Thanks,
Andrew


Thanks man...as for your questions:

1) The exhaust is a 5 year old Gibson cat-back...it's 3" pipe going in to the muffler with dual 2.5" coming out

2) The clamps came with the kit from StainlessWorks...I've seen similar clamps somewhere before...maybe Summit? They're really nice, after using these clamps I'll never use the old school U-bolts again.

3) The cats also came with the kit from StainlessWorks...it included the headers, cats, and everything for the y-pipe.

4) Not sure what brand of cats SW uses, but they seem nice to me

Yea Dr X, seems like we ran into the same dilemma...hopefully the weather will co-operate with me tomorrow and I can try a few other things...might try loosening the motor mounts and trying to shift the engine slightly...

Last edited by budhayes3; Apr 8, 2006 at 08:03 PM.
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Old Apr 8, 2006 | 07:55 PM
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Here's a pic that I snagged from SW's website a while back...it's a pretty precise representation of what my kit looked like when it came out of the box. Only difference that I can tell is the cats that came with mine have heat shields welded to one side of them and the ones in this pic look more like bullets...

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