stock will be fine, there are guys pushing over 800RWHP on stock head bolts.

 

Leave the damn rod bolts alone. If you put every single "insurance" part you could imagine into an engine you'd end up with a $7,000 LS1 and it would be minimal improvement at best over stock components. Save your money and spend it somewhere else. Most "self proclaimed" mechanics out there can't even replace rod bolts properly anyways and end up doing more harm that if they just left it alone.

 

i gotta set of arp2000s if interested their used

 

who the hell **** in your cherrios?...if its pointless to change them, then why do so many people change them?

 

why do so many buy the TB spacer? It's a "feel good" mod and a lot of people do it, doesn't necessarily make it right or wrong. I can't recall the last time I heard of a bolt letting go?

 

Only an improvement if you plan to spin it 6500 plus regularly IMO.

 

but the tb spacer is proven to not really do anything...but the replacement bolts are proven to be stronger right?...i mean if you say you have never seen one break, then why do they sell replacements?...whats the odd chance that one i have breaks?...not saying it will but if i can buy something for 65$ thats gonna increase the strength and durability of my stock bottom end, im gonna do it..

 

i dont mean to come off cocky or trying to be a know it all, cause thats not even close to being true, i just dont understand why so many people are changing them when you guys say the stock ones are fine

 

Sounds like you're already going to do it so then do it. All I'm trying to say is don't waste your money but if you want to go ahead. That's all. I can tell you one thing is I've never taken a main or rod cap off an engine that didn't need a bearing replaced. Not only will you be into it for the cost of rod bolts but now you should replace all the bearings. Also you should replace all the piston rings too. And now you should hone the cylinders. See, what I'm trying to get at is your whole rotating assembly and all the parts that work together with it have "handshaken" ever since it has been broken in. Everything has worn itself into its "seat" and once you break that "seal" as I call it. You need to replace them with new parts. You're just starting a chain reaction if you loosen up those rod caps. Once you clamp a cap of any sort down over a crank or rod journal, the bearing has compressed and conformed itself to the shape of that particular journal. If you disturb that "fitment" and reassembly, can you assure yourself that you have put it perfectly back to the way it was??? Doubt it. Now if you start replacing bearings, the pistons need to come out. Who's to say you're going to line the rings up perfectly to the cylinder walls in which they have mated? See where I'm going with this? Your little $65 dollar rod bolt swap if done properly will have cost you hundreds of dollars in the end. And for what, so you can have that "safety feeling"? I'm not being a dick, I'm trying to help you out. Leave it alone. The only engines that need rod bolt updates are the 99 and older, and that's if you spin up to 7,000 RPM. (See thread: https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=946074 ) Besides, for a street driven truck you shouldn't have a donkey dick cam in big enough that you're seeing those types of RPM's. The truck will be a complete dog until 4500RPM's+ Leave well enough alone and move on with your build.

 

if ya woulda answered that way the first time we would be all good, thank you for explaining it to me...ill probably just leave it alone and not even pull the pan