rocker arm stud turned need help
Mar 8, 2005 | 08:37 PM
#1
rocker arm stud turned need help
Im making a new post branching from this one https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...8&page=1&pp=20
since its a new problem.
My new signature will read "If it wasnt for bad luck I wouldnt have any at all"
The rocker arm stud is turned not the threads but instead the head and Ive tried everything to get a grip on it from pliers to hammering a smaller socket on and nothing seems to work Im wondering if I got a bad batch of studs from gm because the metal seems very weak and soft.
If anyone has any advice Id appreciate it the truck runs now but I need to get the rocker arm off to change pushrods.
If all else fails I guess I can cut the arm in half and try and get at it that way.
I wonder if I could freeze the bolt somehow to get it out?
since its a new problem.
My new signature will read "If it wasnt for bad luck I wouldnt have any at all"
The rocker arm stud is turned not the threads but instead the head and Ive tried everything to get a grip on it from pliers to hammering a smaller socket on and nothing seems to work Im wondering if I got a bad batch of studs from gm because the metal seems very weak and soft.
If anyone has any advice Id appreciate it the truck runs now but I need to get the rocker arm off to change pushrods.
If all else fails I guess I can cut the arm in half and try and get at it that way.
I wonder if I could freeze the bolt somehow to get it out?
Mar 8, 2005 | 11:07 PM
#4
TECH Resident
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 782
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From: Baytown
dude,
sounds like a drag, first off how large is your cam? and what kind of springs are you using? IF your cam is too large for the sping and you have gone into coil bind ( or the retainer is binding on the top of the guide ) then the effect is to pull the stud up out of the head loosening it. If you have access to an air impact you may be able to zip it out and if that does not work try prying up on it while working the impact. You may also try a slide hammer, threading it into the stud threads and jacking it out.
Hmmm perhaps I should ask which engine you have but these ideas will apply to most all engines ( OHV ) In any case if you have one stud turning you may want to consider installing a set of screw-in studs, in any case this is a job for a competent machinist, DO NOT ALLOW anyone to do this in their garage! ( I work as an automotive machinist and I have seen heads come in that are anything but straight in the stud dept. ) You do need to find the reason the stud started moving as it will probably be affecting the rest.
In answer to your question about freezing the stud, there is a chemical in a spray can that is called Minnesota Fast Freeze that will put the chill on the stud and can be obtained from Goodson.com a Machine Shop supplier. As a last resort you may heat the head ( would not do this if I could help it ) at the boss of the stud and when the boss it really hot grab the stud with a pair of channel locks ( I perfer the black ones ) long enough to absorb the heat, acting as a heat sink and try poping them from below with a hammer. I really perfer to have the head off the engine performing any of these activities. More than likely you will have to remove them to fix the reason for the stud loosening in the first place.
Good Luck,
TJ
PS.
There is a simple plastic tool made for checking pushrod length and it is very inexpensive and Comp Cams sells push Rods in many lengths in increments of .050"
ahhh crap....
I suppose that I should have remembered what site I was on... you have the 5.3 and that one has to be aluminum... if you have to heat the head VERY low heat and I would not really advise that at all.... that would be an act of desparation... Geez it is hell to be born with Alzheimers..... that head does have press in studs yes? Are they stepped so that there is no adjustment? Just torque them down and go? If so and your installer overtorqued the stud to start it moving then you may only have the one to worry with but if not then all the above comments still apply. If we had any LS1 engines in the shop I could find out tomorrow but the last one went out last week.
Perhaps screw-in studs with adjustablility may still be an option I would have to lay eyeballs on a head to be sure..
TJ
sounds like a drag, first off how large is your cam? and what kind of springs are you using? IF your cam is too large for the sping and you have gone into coil bind ( or the retainer is binding on the top of the guide ) then the effect is to pull the stud up out of the head loosening it. If you have access to an air impact you may be able to zip it out and if that does not work try prying up on it while working the impact. You may also try a slide hammer, threading it into the stud threads and jacking it out.
Hmmm perhaps I should ask which engine you have but these ideas will apply to most all engines ( OHV ) In any case if you have one stud turning you may want to consider installing a set of screw-in studs, in any case this is a job for a competent machinist, DO NOT ALLOW anyone to do this in their garage! ( I work as an automotive machinist and I have seen heads come in that are anything but straight in the stud dept. ) You do need to find the reason the stud started moving as it will probably be affecting the rest.
In answer to your question about freezing the stud, there is a chemical in a spray can that is called Minnesota Fast Freeze that will put the chill on the stud and can be obtained from Goodson.com a Machine Shop supplier. As a last resort you may heat the head ( would not do this if I could help it ) at the boss of the stud and when the boss it really hot grab the stud with a pair of channel locks ( I perfer the black ones ) long enough to absorb the heat, acting as a heat sink and try poping them from below with a hammer. I really perfer to have the head off the engine performing any of these activities. More than likely you will have to remove them to fix the reason for the stud loosening in the first place.
Good Luck,
TJ
PS.
There is a simple plastic tool made for checking pushrod length and it is very inexpensive and Comp Cams sells push Rods in many lengths in increments of .050"
ahhh crap....
I suppose that I should have remembered what site I was on... you have the 5.3 and that one has to be aluminum... if you have to heat the head VERY low heat and I would not really advise that at all.... that would be an act of desparation... Geez it is hell to be born with Alzheimers..... that head does have press in studs yes? Are they stepped so that there is no adjustment? Just torque them down and go? If so and your installer overtorqued the stud to start it moving then you may only have the one to worry with but if not then all the above comments still apply. If we had any LS1 engines in the shop I could find out tomorrow but the last one went out last week.
Perhaps screw-in studs with adjustablility may still be an option I would have to lay eyeballs on a head to be sure..
TJ
Mar 9, 2005 | 12:35 AM
#5
Originally Posted by MrDestinE
dude,
sounds like a drag, first off how large is your cam? and what kind of springs are you using? IF your cam is too large for the sping and you have gone into coil bind ( or the retainer is binding on the top of the guide ) then the effect is to pull the stud up out of the head loosening it. If you have access to an air impact you may be able to zip it out and if that does not work try prying up on it while working the impact. You may also try a slide hammer, threading it into the stud threads and jacking it out.
Hmmm perhaps I should ask which engine you have but these ideas will apply to most all engines ( OHV ) In any case if you have one stud turning you may want to consider installing a set of screw-in studs, in any case this is a job for a competent machinist, DO NOT ALLOW anyone to do this in their garage! ( I work as an automotive machinist and I have seen heads come in that are anything but straight in the stud dept. ) You do need to find the reason the stud started moving as it will probably be affecting the rest.
In answer to your question about freezing the stud, there is a chemical in a spray can that is called Minnesota Fast Freeze that will put the chill on the stud and can be obtained from Goodson.com a Machine Shop supplier. As a last resort you may heat the head ( would not do this if I could help it ) at the boss of the stud and when the boss it really hot grab the stud with a pair of channel locks ( I perfer the black ones ) long enough to absorb the heat, acting as a heat sink and try poping them from below with a hammer. I really perfer to have the head off the engine performing any of these activities. More than likely you will have to remove them to fix the reason for the stud loosening in the first place.
Good Luck,
TJ
PS.
There is a simple plastic tool made for checking pushrod length and it is very inexpensive and Comp Cams sells push Rods in many lengths in increments of .050"
ahhh crap....
I suppose that I should have remembered what site I was on... you have the 5.3 and that one has to be aluminum... if you have to heat the head VERY low heat and I would not really advise that at all.... that would be an act of desparation... Geez it is hell to be born with Alzheimers..... that head does have press in studs yes? Are they stepped so that there is no adjustment? Just torque them down and go? If so and your installer overtorqued the stud to start it moving then you may only have the one to worry with but if not then all the above comments still apply. If we had any LS1 engines in the shop I could find out tomorrow but the last one went out last week.
Perhaps screw-in studs with adjustablility may still be an option I would have to lay eyeballs on a head to be sure..
TJ
sounds like a drag, first off how large is your cam? and what kind of springs are you using? IF your cam is too large for the sping and you have gone into coil bind ( or the retainer is binding on the top of the guide ) then the effect is to pull the stud up out of the head loosening it. If you have access to an air impact you may be able to zip it out and if that does not work try prying up on it while working the impact. You may also try a slide hammer, threading it into the stud threads and jacking it out.
Hmmm perhaps I should ask which engine you have but these ideas will apply to most all engines ( OHV ) In any case if you have one stud turning you may want to consider installing a set of screw-in studs, in any case this is a job for a competent machinist, DO NOT ALLOW anyone to do this in their garage! ( I work as an automotive machinist and I have seen heads come in that are anything but straight in the stud dept. ) You do need to find the reason the stud started moving as it will probably be affecting the rest.
In answer to your question about freezing the stud, there is a chemical in a spray can that is called Minnesota Fast Freeze that will put the chill on the stud and can be obtained from Goodson.com a Machine Shop supplier. As a last resort you may heat the head ( would not do this if I could help it ) at the boss of the stud and when the boss it really hot grab the stud with a pair of channel locks ( I perfer the black ones ) long enough to absorb the heat, acting as a heat sink and try poping them from below with a hammer. I really perfer to have the head off the engine performing any of these activities. More than likely you will have to remove them to fix the reason for the stud loosening in the first place.
Good Luck,
TJ
PS.
There is a simple plastic tool made for checking pushrod length and it is very inexpensive and Comp Cams sells push Rods in many lengths in increments of .050"
ahhh crap....
I suppose that I should have remembered what site I was on... you have the 5.3 and that one has to be aluminum... if you have to heat the head VERY low heat and I would not really advise that at all.... that would be an act of desparation... Geez it is hell to be born with Alzheimers..... that head does have press in studs yes? Are they stepped so that there is no adjustment? Just torque them down and go? If so and your installer overtorqued the stud to start it moving then you may only have the one to worry with but if not then all the above comments still apply. If we had any LS1 engines in the shop I could find out tomorrow but the last one went out last week.
Perhaps screw-in studs with adjustablility may still be an option I would have to lay eyeballs on a head to be sure..
TJ
wow lots of info
stick around this site we need more ideas!
Its just the top of the bolt thats rounded off. I believe the threads are fine and Its giving problems because of lock tight blue thats on it, I noticed another bolt head getting rounded also makes me think I got a bad batch from gm the metal seems to soft. Im going to try cutting a notch in it and putting a big screw driver on it but then again its torqued to 25 ft/lbs with locktight. I guess I need to invest in a bolt out kit hope I can find one for an 8mm if that doesnt work, Im thinking weld an extension on to it or cut the top of the bolt off.
Mar 9, 2005 | 06:15 AM
#7
i have had that problem once. i covered everything up real good(real good). then i ground the top of the head off. left the flat part of the bolt on there. then i took a dremel and cut slots in the part that was left. after that i was able to chip the peices away and save the rocker. there were only a few scratches on the rocker. good luck. asnd make damn sure you cover everything real good. and put some grease around it on the rags to help catch the shavings.
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Mar 9, 2005 | 12:58 PM
#8
ive said it once and Ill say it again if it wasnt for bad luck I wouldnt have any at all.
The new ****** bolt just sheared off at the top of the threads and the bottom half is still in the head. After I get the old one out when Im torqueing the new one pop there it goes I hate ******* cheap *** gm and thier cheap *** parts. Im working on this in the driveway its my only ride and now Ive got to try and find a machinist to make a house call.
The new ****** bolt just sheared off at the top of the threads and the bottom half is still in the head. After I get the old one out when Im torqueing the new one pop there it goes I hate ******* cheap *** gm and thier cheap *** parts. Im working on this in the driveway its my only ride and now Ive got to try and find a machinist to make a house call.
