Alright guys, let's get back on topic....whatever it is.

 

What were ya'll spinning to? As I said ... I've spun mine to 6600 for some time with almost 9psi. After that, it went to 7000 rpm shifts NA.

Did I mention that was on stock rod bolts?

 

No one will ever really know what failed first...Was it the chicken or the egg?

I just do not understand the direct correlation with FI/decel and the rod bolts..... I know (just did some quick research) that these motors do have a problem with the rod bolts over time and hard use, even NA.....but there is no need to blame a turbo/supercharger directly for the failure....there is allot that could have come into play on the failure....I am not 100% sold that it was hurt on decel and not damaged upon ACCEL and came apart on DECEL.....I guess we will never really know....Good news is there is a 402 in the UPS truck headed to his garage.

 

LOL Gotta love the egg, it always gets laid!

I have certainly heard of many examples of n/a decel stress failure stories from race mechanics here in the frederick/montgomery county area of MD. I don't think FI has much to do with it.You gotta wonder how they come to there conclusions but, flyer revving up to 7k seems okay cuz it's under accel, even the hopping. More importantly flyer doesn't weigh 6800lbs. I am not saying blown is gonna lose his rod bolts(4doors isn't light either), but evey case is soooooo different. SOOOOO many things can come into play, hell just ask blown's customer service line how many different applications they're.

 

I'm guessing you didn't realize where you said you're way doesn't work? It should be a mathmatical multiple, but it doesn't necessarily work. Oh .. that makes lots of sense too.

Point is ... I was getting at there's something that needs to be corrected for the MAF flatlining. I haven't kept a running log of what you guys have done, so please ... excuse me for not realizing this has been discussed.

I wouldn't have mentioned the 3% if I didn't know what I was talking about. Tuners all have their own ways, what works for them works. As long as it works, that's what really matters. If you disagree ... so be it, but that doesn't mean your way is the only way to tune.

I'm still not sold on it being the rod bolts. If it is ... then I'm wrong, but some things we will never know. FWIW, I've see someone grenade an engine on a mail order tune from running it lean. It looked as if it dropped a valve, but I know for a fact it ran lean. It probably wasn't the tuners fault either.

 

Oh ... and on the motor, the #7 rod was broke at the journal. I know it ran lean cause there was no booster pump on the truck. The stock pump quite keeping up around 5600.

 

You are correct. I was in no way correlating it to the blower at all.

Rod bolts have been and issue for a long time. Just one of those things. We had actually talked about it that night There is one rod no longer attatched to the crank. I have torn apart many blown Engines in the past 25 years. There is usually parts still connected to the crank unless the bolts failed

We will know more real soon

 

2 words for ya man....JB Weld

 

Hehe

Now THAT was funny!

 

My way to tune is to give it what it needs to be right. "Right", as much as fueling is concerned, is getting the AFR you want that is safe. Whatever it takes to make it right. For me, "right" was as close to 11.5 to 1 AFR as possible. Simply adding 3% didn't even come close to achieving the target. What you should have said was that you typically add 3% and see where it is is at AFR-wise. If it isn't right keep going. That ain't what you said at all. And you basically dismissed the use of a wideband. Yes it does tell you when it's lean... or rich... and it's the ultimate tool to help you get it right. Soo... we can keep arguing your limited knowledge against 3 guys who have in the neighborhood of 50 years between them of making things go fast. Maybe you're out of your depth. I suggest more time in the garage and less on the internet as a remedy.



And the big answer for the night.... It WAS the rod bolts. The valves are all in place and the springs are all perfect. As Ellis stated... theres at least one rod that is not attached ot the crank at all. The heads will be off tomorrow. The pieces of piston that I've seen all have decent looking ring lands so that doesn't appear to be a problem either.

I've never seen a post topic where a few people were so adamant about what the root cause of a failure was without actually seeing any of the parts. It's almost as if I'm trying to blame someone. The motor came apart. I was inconsolable for about 10 minutes... then I laughed because theres nothing left to do but rebuild and move forward. I'm a bit disappointed the failure wasn't more spectacular considering that the whole engine is ruined I'd like to see total carnage LOL