Naked AV, I think your experience was a little different. There has been Several Dyno sheets posted with rear wheel gains in the 120 hp range. I have seen many hp gains in the 120 rwhp area or more. Like I have said over 1000 times, each dyno is different. Conditions change, dynos change, and set ups change. No two trucks will net the exact same results, even on the same dyno. Your HP gain of 60 HP was a little off, yes I will not dispute that. BUT that has been rectified and you are (or seem to be) a happy customer.

I think gearheads78 needs to first contact Magna and see if there are some updates available for his tune. Then put it on a dyno (hopefully an operator that knows what he/she is doing) and see what the results are. People need to understand, you are driving a 5000-6000 pound vehicle not a Corvette or a RCSB truck. The "*** dyno" is not always the best indication of HP. So before we get into a pissing contest (which these kinds of post usually do), do the right thing and make a few phone calls, have your installer go over everything to make sure its working properly and then form your opinions.

 

Tex, good to talk to you. I will be there on Sat with a Joe Gibbs reg cab passing out a few business cards. On Sunday I will be taking my Avalanche and my wife will be driving a 98 TA in mystic teal and WS6 hood. You can't miss my Av even with the hood down. All red, 20" Intro billets and lowered. What color is your SS I will keep an eye out.

OT on the tech II, Over the last few years I have found myself weening myself off of carbed cars. My Malibu is the last thing I own with a carb and I have been considering doing some sort of EFI swap in it.
My question is does any know of either software or device like a TECH II that is not 1000's of dollars. I would want it to be combatable with TPI, LT1, and LS1 based motors. I would like to be able to log data on anything from my 04' Avalanche to my little brother's 86 TPI IROC and what ever in between.

 

This tread was not intended to be a slam on the Radix. Like I originaly mentioned I am sure the lack luster start is a combo of the TM and the fact that this thing weighs close to 3 tons. For not having any other mods it pulls very well from about 50-90. I know that if I try to get rid of the TM the stock tanny will go My wallet is just not quite ready for that just yet.

When and if I get the $$ for a tranny what does everyone recomend? A place called RockOn in Denton has a pretty good rep in the f-body world. Anyone used theres in a heavy truck?

 

ANothe rthing on Naked Av's post worth mentioning I think is it was something due to a faulty GM part, not a RADIX part. If I remember right it was the fuel pressure regulator being out of adjustment that caused the biggest performance hit.

Some Diag software you might be interested in is AutoTap. Give them a call and tell them what yoy're wanting and they should be able to hook you up. If you do something strictly for LS1 based engines, you can't beat EFILive.

Check out that timing down low ... if It's much less than 15 or so, then I would get it's TqM, you might make sure you don't have any knock too.

 

Brian, I've got my experience with the Radix and you need to just accept that. Fact is, Magnuson said they fixed everything with my truck, that my Avalanche was 'right up there with all of the other 5.3L Vortecs' they have in their database, and I still can't turn my tires over. Never have been able to. Now gearheads78 is having the same issue and I was just sharing my experience with him (which by the way is what this board is all about).

Off topic, if you want to present these 'several' dyno sheets that you claim to have or know of, you should start a different thread about it. If there are so many, then it really shouldn't be a problem, I'd love to see them, and I'm sure some others would as well. Otherwise, we should stay on the topic of helping gearheads78.

 

Trust me, the reason you can't turn the tires over IS torque management. From a standstill, if you go wot, it drops timing to 4 degrees or below.

I couldn't even get rid of that with edit. I finally resorted to setting the spark retard limit to 15 to get rid of it. That made a huge difference.

A 5.3 liter engine at 1600 rpm's and 0 degrees of timing, has very little power even with 8 psi.

I also think everyone interested in performance should have at laest a 2600 stall.

 

gearheads78, I did not intend to ***** up your thread. I intention was to bring a different light into this after NakedAV's post. NakedAV, I am not here to slam you, and I do accept that you had your issues I never denied that. I believe I did my best to help you through them and we found that there was some issues with your tune, and a fuel pressure regulator issue. I have installed COUNTLESS Radix kits and not every one of them can "lay a patch", most SUV's with big wheels and tires can not, even with the Radix.

Off Topic, we have been back and forth about the dyno sheets a thousand times, and each time they are posted by me and other members. I am not here to bash you dude; I was just shining some light on the situation.

gearheads78, you need to take into account what you are looking to do with your Avalanche. Drag race it or have good all around performance? You also should be aware that changing pulleys and changing your tune can also lead to an untimely death of your trans and warranty. Trust me, been there done that.

 

Funny ... I was thinking the same thing. I've seen those same damn dyno sheets about 3 times. It seems like a lot of the posts Naked Av is in, there would be a good use for a smiley beating a dead horse.

Back on topic ... I would put money that torque management is holding you back considerably. WHat size tires do you have, stock? Do the Av's have leaf spring rear suspension or the SUV 4 link? That might be a reason for not being able to lay a patch. (new saying for me) What rear end gear do you have?

 

Its not for drag racing by all means. I have the car for that. What I want is great all around performance, decent milage while conservative driving and still be able to tow 5000-6000lbs without worry. It should be able to supprise someone in an moderatly quick car on the stereet. If I did take it to the track I think mid to high 14's would be nice. I know I am not wanting much

I am aware of what will happen if I start to crank things up. Thats why I don't want to risk it for a while as I am saving my pennies.

The tires are 275-50-20 and the Av is built on the Suburban chassis. It has the 4 link set up. It is also factory G80 with 3.73

 

Whatever. If you stayed on topic Flyer and blownchevy, that would be better for everyone.