I am going to change the cam in my 5.3. After seeing the results of the Thunder Racing Old Man cam I am probley going to chose that one. But I heard that changing the cam is a pretty simple procedure. Will the lifter tool that thunder racing sells fit the 5.3? It looks like 2 rods that slide into the hole on each side of the cam to hold the lifters up. Its only 85 dollars and if it saves alot of time and headache i think it is well worth it. I just dont want to have to take the manifold off the motor, because I want to try in do it in about 6hrs. The guy that is helping me do it builds motors on the side and has all of the tools that anyone would ever need. If anyone has any imput or procedure they used that worked out well during their cam install tell me.

 

I personally haven't done the cam install yet (can't decide on a cam!), but I have been reading a lot about it. I think the lifter tools are a waste of money, because you can easily make your own. Run a search for them, I know a couple people here have made their own with success. I've also heard that that tool actually doesn't work that well on one side. But it will/theoretically work on your 5.3.

This site explains it all, its for an f-body, but most of the procedure is the same:

http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=23

 

well from what i have read and heard the lifter tools do not fir correctly. i have changed out four cams now and helped with more. it is a simple procedure. i have used the russian rulette method. turn the cam a few times and test the lifters.they should hold. if not get some pin magnets to hold them up.you should be able to find more about the magnets withg the search feature. other than that just make sure you torque everything correctly.

 

Chances are your lifters will stay up out of the way if you spin your cam several times with the rocker arms off. You can leave the push rods in and use them as indicators of your lifters being up or down. If you have one or several that just won't stay up get some cheep telescoping magnets and fix them to hold you lifters up. It wouldn't do anygood to take your intake off because you have to pull your heads to access your lifters. These engines are different from the old small blocks.

 

The lifters shoudl not fall. Even in my semi high mile motor the lifters stayed up with no magnets. But I used them as an insurance policy. Was a straight forward swap. If there are a few things you want to change while your doing the cam, do them now. Like seals and such. I replaced my valve seals while I was in there.

 

I put a cam in my 6.0L last night, and the lifter tools worked great! I don't know what kind of luck you have, but if its anything like mine, whatever can go wrong will. I wouldn't recomend the "russian rulette" method as if a lifter does fall (and in my case I'm sure it would have) you are in for a TON more work. My motor was on a stand so it was much easier then being in the truck, and I also had help from Tony at F-Body Central who was done probrobally 50 cam swaps in F-Bodies and such, so he wasn't going to let me screw anything up. On a side note, the lifters did feel "tight" in their bore, but this is a brand new motor. For the $85 or whatever they cost, I'd say the "tool" is a great thing to have, I'm sure you could sell them after you were done if you wanted to and get most of your money back. Fortunately, Tony has a set and I didn't need to buy any!

 

I've seen people say to just get 36 inches of 1/4" brake line - one for each side, and slide it in, which does the same thing.

And when you guys say "pin magnets" do you just mean telescopic magnets with a small enough head to fit into the pushrod holes?