problems with ASP underdrive pulley
#11
TECH Addict
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1. Use your old bolt to install the damper and torque to 240 ft/lbs, then remove it. This is to seat the damper completely.
2. Install your new bolt and tighten to 37 ft/lbs.
3. This step is to get a reference on the front of the engine. With the torque wrench hanging at the spot where the 37 ft/lbs was achieved, reference 140° clockwise for another tightening cycle. Put a mark or a piece of tape where you need to tighten.
4. Then go another 140° from the 37 ft/lbs start point and you are now tight.
from LS1 tech
2. Install your new bolt and tighten to 37 ft/lbs.
3. This step is to get a reference on the front of the engine. With the torque wrench hanging at the spot where the 37 ft/lbs was achieved, reference 140° clockwise for another tightening cycle. Put a mark or a piece of tape where you need to tighten.
4. Then go another 140° from the 37 ft/lbs start point and you are now tight.
from LS1 tech
#12
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do not use an asp udp.....ive swapped 2 of them out already on buddies trucks. not sure what it is , i guess b/c they are made of aluminum, but it will eventuallt spin on the crank....get the powerbond or trick flow udp. just my 2 cents of course
#13
TECH Regular
iTrader: (7)
It will be hard to get 240 ft/lbs if you don't have the tool that jams the flywheel. I had one buddy jam the flywheel with a big screw driver and another try to hold the pulley still while I tightened it. I think we hit at least 200 ft/lbs before the screw driver slipped off but its been fine for over a year
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