Parish8 need some help!
#1
Thread Starter
TECH Junkie
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 3,271
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From: Katy, TX
Ive been having trouble with my truck falling on its face hard in third gear. Many people have told me its the KR killing my power. Can you fill me in on the knock sensors, where they are and which wire to splice the 10K ohm resister to? Id really apreciate the help. Im hoping this will eliminate most of my problems.
#3
dont mess with the knock sensors unless you have a monitoring program.
cant really say what is going on with your truck, there are too many variables but you are geting a prety good list of mods there, might be time to invest in atap and ls1edit and even a wideband if you can afford it. the tuning tools really make the most of any set up.
cant really say what is going on with your truck, there are too many variables but you are geting a prety good list of mods there, might be time to invest in atap and ls1edit and even a wideband if you can afford it. the tuning tools really make the most of any set up.
#4
Most likely it is the torque convertor locking up once it gets to 3rd. Touch the brake, just enough to turn the brake lights on, when it falls, and see if it sounds like it does a half dowshift.
Of so .. that's the TCC lockup, and can be fixed with EDIT.
Of so .. that's the TCC lockup, and can be fixed with EDIT.
#5
Thread Starter
TECH Junkie
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 3,271
Likes: 0
From: Katy, TX
Since I got the heads done and my compression jumped to @10.3:1 it pings with anything lower than 93 octane.I think the compression increase may be making the computer do some weired things like max KR. At the track I use the good airport stuff with some 108 booster. That gets rid of alot of hesitation and helps me knock off .2-.3. Can the pinging be making the KR come into effect? With the 10k resister Ill probibly only use at the track. About auto tap, what exactly is it and how much are they? Thanks agian for the info guys.
#6
DUDE!!!!!! if it is real knock you don't want to ignor it!!! real knock is a hp killer and an engine killer. all the resistors do is reduce the sensativity of the knock sensors and you only want to do that if the knock is false, you have real knock and need to take care of it.
10.3 isn't all that high, i would be nice to see your a/f ratio and timing numbers. if you can't run 93 all the time and stay out of knock you need to tune for whatever gas you can afford.
10.3 isn't all that high, i would be nice to see your a/f ratio and timing numbers. if you can't run 93 all the time and stay out of knock you need to tune for whatever gas you can afford.
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#8
Thread Starter
TECH Junkie
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 3,271
Likes: 0
From: Katy, TX
Parish8, I know real knock is bad. And I know it can kill power and your engine. I wouldnt mind getting Auto tap if I knew what it was and how much it costs. As far as blowing my engine, thats OK. If I blow it, its under warranty. A buddy of mine deals with warranty claims at a dealership, and Im planning on getting a new engine anyway before I put a cam in and the turbo on. I would really like to know more about Auto tap and how to do the resistor mod. Please send me a PM on how to do this mod, Id really apreciate it.
#9
it is great that you run 93 all the time and know the diference between real and false knock. atap is a monitoring program that lets you look at and log all sorts of stuff. stuff like 02's, ltrims, knock retard, rpm, throttle position... the list is very long. seems like it is around $300 but i cant remember for sure.
as far as the resistor mod, DONT DO IT!! you would be lieing to your computer about the actual knock it is seeing, it would continue to run too much timing, more knock, slower truck, blown motor... the most power you can make is to monitor for Knock and tune untill it is just on the verge of geting Knock(tune till you see knock and back off a hair).
if you really want to blow up your motor do it right, dont blow it up for no good reason. here is how i would blow it up.
aux inline fuel pump, duel stage nx kit or DP kit, start with a 150shot and work your way up till it blows, dont over rev. at least the rest of us could learn something from you blowing it up, we all know ignoring knock will break a piston. i bet you could hit it with a 250shot+befroe it let go.
what did you use to measure your a/f ratio?
as far as the resistor mod, DONT DO IT!! you would be lieing to your computer about the actual knock it is seeing, it would continue to run too much timing, more knock, slower truck, blown motor... the most power you can make is to monitor for Knock and tune untill it is just on the verge of geting Knock(tune till you see knock and back off a hair).
if you really want to blow up your motor do it right, dont blow it up for no good reason. here is how i would blow it up.
aux inline fuel pump, duel stage nx kit or DP kit, start with a 150shot and work your way up till it blows, dont over rev. at least the rest of us could learn something from you blowing it up, we all know ignoring knock will break a piston. i bet you could hit it with a 250shot+befroe it let go.
what did you use to measure your a/f ratio?
#10
Thread Starter
TECH Junkie
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 3,271
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From: Katy, TX
When I had it dynoed they mapped out the A/F for $15 more. It ran pretty much at 11.5 through the whole dyno run. It fluxuated a little, but not much. The Navy owes me a good chunk of change, and as soon as I get it Ill be getting a NX kit. If I run a 250 shot will that be enough to break the tranny too? Its all stock.
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