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Parish8 Just checking in on my progress

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Old Sep 12, 2004 | 11:48 PM
  #11  
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yeah i still have the stock front and rear. 4l80e's do shift nice, mine never seems to be confused like the 4l60e did at times.
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Old Sep 13, 2004 | 07:46 PM
  #12  
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Ken...long time no see!! Nice to see the progress. Wish I was making some. I changed my name from Fast4.8.
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Old Sep 13, 2004 | 09:14 PM
  #13  
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Where did you get the info as to how much boost that V1 would make??? I was told by Vortech that my V2 (which I thought was just a quieter version of the V1) would make 20# on my 5.3 . I know all about marketing hype, but that seems to be a pretty significant difference.
Im hopefully going to start retuning my 5.3 since adding a pregressive meth system and 12# pulley. Ive been waiting on this Laptop for quite some time now
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Old Sep 13, 2004 | 09:49 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by greentahoe
Where did you get the info as to how much boost that V1 would make??? I was told by Vortech that my V2 (which I thought was just a quieter version of the V1) would make 20# on my 5.3 . I know all about marketing hype, but that seems to be a pretty significant difference.
Im hopefully going to start retuning my 5.3 since adding a pregressive meth system and 12# pulley. Ive been waiting on this Laptop for quite some time now
You just don't want to over rev the SC depending on what your crank and SC pulley size are:

http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/...pspeedv-1.html

http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/...s/scmatrix.pdf

V1-V2 S-trim... (45K Max for efficency, 50K Max for rpms
I was making 7.5psi of boost after the the 7.3L turbo diesel intercooler with a 7.5" stock crank pulley and a 3.12 SC pulley at 5300rpms on my stock 350 Vortec engine....383 is 10% bigger plus the better breathing of the heads and cam the boost mayl go down about 1 psi running it at the same rpms...to get back to where I was before in boost I would need to run my 2.95 pulley but then you get into belt slippage with a 6 rib system. 2.87 would be the smallest SC pulley I could run as it would max out the compressor rpms...Best bet would be to run a bigger custom made crank pulley say 8.75" ID and run a bigger 8 rib SC pulley like a 3.33 with would keep it just below 50K rpms....or better yet run a T-trim SC...lot depends on how many rpms you run but with the stock vortec intake going any further does not produce as much HP as a more open intake.

Ken
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Old Sep 13, 2004 | 10:12 PM
  #15  
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According to that Im already over the max efficiency with a stock setup . With just a 3.12 I'll be about 51500 . Why would they give us a blower that isnt going to be able to spin enough to produce a decent amount of power??? Have you checked into upgrading head units as far as fitment issues??? Will it drop right in or will we have to fabricate or modify the mounting bracket??? Im really pissed
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Old Sep 13, 2004 | 10:24 PM
  #16  
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hey ken, what stall speed did your old converter run at? My 383 that i got is almost the exact setup as yours with a little bigger cam, little more compression but no blower.... I do weigh about 1k lighter than you, im excited to see how our trucks stack up against each other, and it seems like both of ours will be running around the same time
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Old Sep 14, 2004 | 08:40 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by rcfast
hey ken, what stall speed did your old converter run at? My 383 that i got is almost the exact setup as yours with a little bigger cam, little more compression but no blower.... I do weigh about 1k lighter than you, im excited to see how our trucks stack up against each other, and it seems like both of ours will be running around the same time
Old TC was 2500rpms...was able to hold it there only in 4HI...makes for a nice launch but the STR was only 1.8 New Art Carr TC will have about the same stall but with a 2.15 STR...that alone will improve my quarter mile by .3-.4 seconds... gearing upgrade will not make as much difference as the tires will go from 31" to 32.7" but the weight about the same as the stock rims and tires at 65lbs...got to love those 14 lb weld wheels! Note to Parish...if he would upgrade to some weld wheels he could knock off about .2 off his quarter mile times...I went with 15" x 8" rims so I could run C rated tires which are lighter than D rated tires...you'd have to keep 16's on new model trucks as the rotors/calibers would hit 15" rims.

If I chance to a T-trim or turbo down the road the steel vortec heads will be taken off...where milled 40ths because of the 31cc dish pistons to get 9.0=8.9 to 1...I had cc the heads so I lost about .1 in order to get them within .5cc of each other....putting them back to the stock cc's will give 8.5 to 1 compression with some nice big valve aluminum heads.

Ken
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Old Sep 14, 2004 | 04:42 PM
  #18  
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the stock rim and tire are prety light. something like 50lb's with the rim and the stock 32" tire. how do you figure .2 with just rims? the most i could see droping would be 10lb per wheel. rule of thumb i know of is .2 for every 100lb rotating. that would be less than .1 if i saved 10lb/wheel.

i have a 15x10 centerline wheel and it is 19lb's, i tried geting it to fit and it is not looking good. i could fit them but the back spacing would be ugly. probably end up with about 1/4 of the tire out side of the truck. i really want some 15" rims on there so i can have the tire selection. there are no taller drag radials in any rim size over 15".
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Old Sep 14, 2004 | 09:58 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by parish8
the stock rim and tire are prety light. something like 50lb's with the rim and the stock 32" tire. how do you figure .2 with just rims? the most i could see droping would be 10lb per wheel. rule of thumb i know of is .2 for every 100lb rotating. that would be less than .1 if i saved 10lb/wheel.

i have a 15x10 centerline wheel and it is 19lb's, i tried geting it to fit and it is not looking good. i could fit them but the back spacing would be ugly. probably end up with about 1/4 of the tire out side of the truck. i really want some 15" rims on there so i can have the tire selection. there are no taller drag radials in any rim size over 15".
What size tire are you running Jim? My P255/70R16 on stock cast 7x16 rims were about 55lbs each....if yours are 50 then like you said the most you could save is 40lbs of rotating weight which is like taking off 80lbs of dead weight...I know when I switched over from the steel rims to my welds it knocked off .2 on my 0-60 times per my Tazzo uit..even more in the quarter mile....

Tech article:
http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forums/...ad.php?t=46235

Every little bit helps You can also get rid of the rear bumper, tow hitch for another 100lbs of weight....I put my stock rear bumper back on but left off the hitch which weighted 45lbs as I don't tow anything.

Ken
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Old Sep 14, 2004 | 10:04 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by (Ken)-Blown-383 4x4
Running the new spider injectors "without" the poppet valves...this will allow higher fuel pressure than the max of 80psi on the SFMU...also I am running a MF2 unit...(like a superfueler) with either two 55lb injectors or just one big one...I already have everything to install this...PCM was programed by Ed Wright for the old engine....I also have a MAFT+ which allows fine tunning of the fuel and timing.

BTW, James B. was running the same cam in his Tahoe and we checked in on the smog dyno and it was very close to stock readings on HC/CO/NOX

Ken
There's an aftermarket injector system for the old Vortecs?
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