oh yeah, there is a guy in SSF that does performance rebuilds on 4L60E's. He installed my shift kit and was very reasonably priced. A 4L80E is the only way to go with serious power though.

 

Makes perfect sense to me.

 

Well, I dunno if you're setup financially... if not, take ~$3k of that and max an IRA for yourself...that's the limit yearly. I did that when I was 18 and continue to this day. That's the first thing I'd do with that much money. I may not make much out of myself in life but when I retire or kick the bucket there will be a **** load of cash there for me or who gets my money.

Also then setup a budget for how fast you want to go. Dropping $15K just like that is insane to me but it's your cash. Plan out what you want so you're not spending money twice.

I would just go with a .030" 6.0, stock crank, H-beams, forged pistons. Get a 4L80E behind it, the power you want...a 4L60E won't hold and be durable. You could run a fat stall with a Procharger and make some killer power with some nitrous...

 

There is no replacement for displacment

 

Thanks for the opinions guys. I definately plan on keeping a decent amount of money for safety purpose, or whatever it might be. I know it would be a big mistake to **** all my money away on my truck. I'm thinking a 370, 4L80 and a 3400 Stall TC and then I would be set for a while. In July I start a full time job, so I definatley wouldn't say I would be struggling for money.

Why go 370 instead of a plain jane 364 you ask. Well obviously a fully built 370 is going to be able to take a lot more abuse than a stock block 364. I rather spend a extra grand or two, and not have the headache of having to worry about blowing something up, at least to lessen the odds greatly. Down the road I would consider forced induction, making the benefits of a built motor even more clear. A 346 is alternative in my mind, but for some reason I can't see going to a smaller motor even though it would be priced the same, just to save some weight. Btw, how much would a used 4L80E in good shape go for? Thanks again!

 

My views are exactly how SuperSporttruck put it .

j's01silverado: Good to see someone from my area! I haven't been to Infineon yet, although I was thinking about going with some of my friends. I'll try and get out there once I get out of school, before I pump my truck up. I don't really care that much in going right now because my truck is fairly slow. To me there's no point in running a low 15's or high 14's truck over and over again, gets boring if you know what I mean. Once I get some power, I'll definately start going every once in a while to get the Chevy trucks some respect though. I'll let you know when I decide to go, so we can meet up or whateva. Later

 

If you are going to build a motor and not "worry about blowing something up" then you're going to be in a world of hurt.

 

Don't go out of your way to hate my friend. I just asked some legitmate questions in my eyes, and rather not be shot down left and right . I know some of you may like to hold a grudge against younger guys, but that's your given right and view. When some people hear about a young guy with money, that is something that really gets them going, and makes them jealous or whatever it may be. Back to topic...I rather have a built motor that is "Built" to take a lot abuse, than a stock motor that is not, when the price difference is not that great. Imo, with a stock motor and a large amount of nitrous or boost, in most cases it's not a matter of if the motor will blow up, but when. If I did run into the unfortunate situation of blowing a motor, I would just put the stock one back in, but obviously that's something I rather avoid.

 

So, when you say a "built" motor that will take a lot of abuse, I assume you mean forged internals. When I priced rotating assemblies for my 408, the difference between going with stock replacement/forged pieces and stroker/forged pieces was $30. It was an easy decision to get stroked.

 

Staying with the stock crank will save you at least $1000. A budget 370 could be done with just a bore / hone and pistons while keeping the stock crank and rods. It will need to be balanced afterwards.