So its 1 in the morning and im not finished. I started at about 5 unbolting all the stock stuff and slow ups dropped my papckage off at about 7. I got all the stock stuff out. The Y-pipe was almost impossible to get off so I had to force some stuff but ended up taking the heat shield directly obove the Y to give me a little more room to move the pipe.

So when I started to put the headers in I was putting the passenger side in from the top and started turning it to make it fit and I now have it stuck in there where I can't get it out. the flange is stuck on the transmission cooler lines and the top of the headers are stuck in the ac hoses. (probably should have gone in from bottom)

The AC hoses are all around so I guess its not possible to unbolt them?
Are the rear O2 sensors the same as the front like there interchangeable?
Did anybody break their dipstick (the piece that connects the block and stick together) trying to get it out? (did not realize you could pull it out, thought it threaded into the block)
Did anybody use any silicone to attach the pipes together with the circle clamps?

Did anybody else ever get their headers stuck while trying to put them on?
I guess Ill try both in the bottom.
Im scared in going to break one of the ac hoses trying to get the header out.

Sorry for all the questions but im going to start on it again in the morning and maybe I can get some help so I can get underneath and one person pulls the header from the top to try to pull it out.


Also anybody with efilive/hp tuners how much of an increase in your ve table did you experience with LT's?

 

Dude, slow down and take your time. When you try to force things is when they break. I've learned that numerous times and when it's getting late and i'm getting frustrated i'll learn it all over again.

I would say definitely try going in through the bottom. What year is your truck? I know on my '06 the front o2 sensors have a different connector than the rears. The fronts have a square connector and the rears have a trapezoid shaped connector. The dipstick should unbolt from the block, i think you need a 15mm wrench or socket. Its the same size you'll need to unbolt the steering column. I used hi-temp gasket sealant that's o2 sensor safe on the collector flanges to get a better seal.

hope this helped

 

Its a 2000 ext cab 5.3

Yeah thats why I stopped and im working on it in the morning.
The front and rear O2s have the same connector and the same color wires so I guess there the same.

Ive got some high temp RTV silicone but I dont think its says O2 sensor safe so ill look into gettting some.

Im kind of confused on unbolting the steering colum does the bolt just unbolt. Do I have to worry about anything else?

Thanks for the help

 

If you using a paper or composite gasket, I would use some Spray-On High Temp Copper gasket maker (made by permatex). That is what I used on my collector gaskets and felpro exhaust gaskets (Stockers leaked for me). The RTV is too damn messy... I have used this stuff on my truck and mustang and never had any leaks...

 

Im about the have to take the starter off to get the passenger side header off its all stuck in there and I can't get it to move becuase of the AC lines and the transmission cooler lines and the insulated AC thing.

If I take the starter off I think I can get some more room in there to wiggle it out. I took the heat shield off to get some more room too.

The only thing I have going for me is that I got it in their so their is a way to get it out, but I don't know how I got it in there.

About how much can the big rubber ac hose bend?
Is there any way to get the trans cooler lines out of the way?

 

The trans lines can easily be disconnected from the radiator if you need to move them. They are just held in by some little wire clips.

After you figure out how to get it back out. Both side go in fairly easily from underneath. You will need to jack the front of the truck up for extra room.
I did not need to unbolt the steering shaft to get the drivers side in.

Also I did not need to use any kind of sealant anywhere for the OBX headers. The collectors are sealed with the graphite dough-nut seal that is provided and the band clamps seal just fine on their own. You do need to tighten the **** out of the band clamps though, don't be afraid you won't break them.

Hopefully you don't have a 4x4 or you may encounter problems with the front drive shaft. And if the passenger side touches the frame rail or is very very close to it be prepared to put a small dent in the header for clearance or you will be annoyed by the sound of the header rattling on the frame.

 

I finally got everything on but had to go to home depot to get some bolts to bolt it up to the catback.

I drove it and its loud and annoying I dint get on it becuase I was scared something was going to fall off and stuff was ratteling underneath. (like truckmann said the passenger header only clears the frame by about a milimeter)

When I get time Im going to drop the crossmember and take apart evrything and get it together right. I could not tighten the band clamp becuase the crossmember is in the way.(ill need a jack to support the trans right?)

How do you reccomend putting the Y pipe together? From the headers back or from the catback forward?

I also need to get something to plug the back bungs for the O2s could this maybe be a reason its so loud?

 

Go from the bottom. Get the truck off the ground a bit. Take the front wheels off and take the inner fender peices out. Makes a WORLD of difference. But go from the bottom with the headers!

 

Little slow their bud....he's got the headers in already

If I remember right I think you can st-iuck the pipe over the cross member on the catback side and then bolted them up to the headers then when back and bolted to the catback. Probably easier to support the tranny and pull the cross member out of the way I think that's what I did.

 

Yeah thats what I did I took the fender wells off and took the coolant tank off also.

Ive got everything on but I just need to redo the Y pipe tommarow to try to make it seal better.

Also the passenger header resonater wont slip into the Y pipe is that normal, the crossover pipe did?

Is there anyway to get more clearance from the frame instead of denting the headers in? Couldnt you put something in between it? Like spark plug heat wrap?

For thoes about to put on headers: it makes it a lot eaiser to take off the fender wells and if you don't want to take off the transmission crossmember you can take off the heat shield directly under the y pipe it should give you enough clearance to take the old Y pipe out.

It also would have been nice if OBX gave directions to install them.