Keep in mind, when running the corvette fuel filter returnless conversion on the 99-02 year models, you will need to have your tuner adjust for the transition to a fuel table compatible with a static fuel pressure of 58psi rather than the factory vacuum referenced variable pressure table.

For those interested, here are some images of my chosen method for plumbing the returnless conversion using the vette filter. The way I have mine done keeps the fuel fines from being jammed up against the fire wall and keeps the filter from being wedge back to the back of the engine bay.




As others have mentioned by linking my thread, I keep a pretty constant supply of these intakes and can probably get you setup with the parts you need if you're interested.

 

The holes for the throttle and cruise cable to secure into were way too small. The ends on the cables wouldn't pop in. The blade was sticky, like it didn't have enough clearance in some spots. In other spots, it had so much clearance that I can see daylight. The vacuum port was epoxied in, pointed in the wrong direction - interfered with my TB cable bracket.

 

Here is how mine is with the factory C5 fuel line. I got the idea from another member here. Cost me a whopping $20. I am using an engine cover from a newer truck is well, ordered the same part # as what is on my friend's 2013. Everything tucks up under it perfect.

 

well ****. The one I have in my hands is smooth, with no epoxy anywhere: but I can't comment on the cable ends because I have never tried to install it.

Thanka ka for the heads yp

 

So what all will I need? Will my existing kn air intake fit new throttle body? Use my fuel rails? Injectors? Harness?can y'all throw some part numbers out for me? Thanks.

 

For those of you who are having issues with the eBay throttle bodies, I'd reccomend one from WARR Performance. I have one of their throttle bodies on my personal truck. Great quality and relatively affordable at around $145. I did have to file the hole in the throtttle cam out to accept the truck cable stop, it must be slightly larger than the LS style. But, it didn't take much. No idle issues that I've experienced, and the TPS voltage was within the acceptable range without even needing to slot out the OEM sensor. If you're wanting to retain cruise control, you may need to get a little creative to get the cable end to snap over the stud on the throttle cam. The OEM truck cruise control cable stud is larger than the LS style on this throttle body. But all in all, I've been more than happy with my WARR throttle body.

 

Theres plenty of info out there regarding these manifold swaps and there is certainly more than one way to get it done. But for a brief summary, on a 99-02 year model, you'll need the following:

-Cathedral Port intake manifold from an NNBS truck or TBSS
-Matching fuel rails from an NNBS truck. If you're running NBS style injectors then you have to use non-flex fuel rails. The flex fuel rails have shorter spouts to accommodate the taller flex fuel 36lb injectors. I believe LS2 style injectors will fit the flex fuel rails though.
-Or, if you choose you can use your original rails but they will have to be cut and shimmed to fit. The crossover will also hit the intake so it must be cut and fittings must be welded on to plumb a new crossover. I personally feel that adapting the factory rails is more diffficult and does not look as "professional" or well done. You can normally tell that they've been cut up and made to fit.
-a fuel filter from a C5 Corvette. This allows you to retain your factory return style fuel lines if you choose to use the NNBS rails. Your feed and return line go into the fuel filter on one side and the filter accepts a female 3/8 quick connect on the other side as an output to the rails. The vette filter is internally regulated and has a static 58psi output. You will need to have your tune adjusted to accommodate this change.
-you will have either fabricate a throttle bracket using an adaptation of your original or modify one of the aftermarket brackets to accept your truck cables.
-the MAP sensor wiring will need to be cut out of the factory harness wrap so that it will allow the connector to reach the new MAP location.
-you will have to determine what throttle body you will utilize or adapt your original. Adapting your original is counter-intuitive because your negate the main reason for the intake swap, the 90mm throttle opening.
-you will have to adapt your original EVAP lines to the NNBS Evap solenoid. There are several ways to do this, but it doesn't have to be hard, just do so how ever you feel works best for you. I personally just ran a short run of vacuum line from the solenoid to my original line that I had shorted partway along the straight portion next to the intake.

The rest of the install is pretty straight forward. It's not terribly difficult to accomplish, but it's also not something that you can just purchase a list of part numbers offline and send out to your mechanic. Things will need to be customized, fabricated, or modified to fit. But if youre planning to cam the motor, it's well worth the swap. My cammed 6.0 simply could not breath above 5k with the factory NBS intake. I picked up a noticeable and quantifiable amount of power from the swap.

 

You have a pic of the canle bracket you used? That is the one piece of this puzzle i never really got straight, still have my old 5.3 bracket with a piece of metal securing it, leaves a lot to be desired... i have a chinese tb as well, at least for now, but the cruise control cable post is too small, and the throttle blade is really stiff gives the feel of way too heavy of a return spring on a carburetor...

 

https://sdparts.com/i-22714833-sdpc-...e-bracket.html

Not a "direct fit", I had to do some small modifications. But, it is made out of aluminum and cuts fast. It saved me a lot of time.

 

Get an intake complete with rails and injectors. Get the adapter harnesses for the injectors. Your CAI should work. I reused my Airraid MIT, had to get a different silicone coupler to go from the larger TB to the intake tube. For the evap solenoid, I unhooked my factory line from the hard line on the chassis and replaced it with a piece of rubber fuel line the proper length. Get a throttle body of your choice, 4 bolt attachment. Work out some sort of throttle cable bracket. Either modify the original, or buy one similar to what i used. My 92mm TB wouldn't open all the way, I had to slightly port the opening of the manifold for clearance

It may seem a bit daunting, but once you start putting it all together - it really is simple. It can be accomplished with basic hand tools.