NEED HELP! Truck will not turn over
#1
Guys,
I've been working on my 94 chevy TBI truck. I had an issue with her not wanting to start after she had been running. The starter won't even engage. If I wait about 10 min, she fires up. I've changed the ignition switch & neutral safety switch, I try to fire her up.. and nothing. I've got power on my console, just no fire to the starter. Having changed the above, she now does nothing at all.
I really need my truck running, I'm on day 2 have not been able to get to work.
All help appreciated.
I've been working on my 94 chevy TBI truck. I had an issue with her not wanting to start after she had been running. The starter won't even engage. If I wait about 10 min, she fires up. I've changed the ignition switch & neutral safety switch, I try to fire her up.. and nothing. I've got power on my console, just no fire to the starter. Having changed the above, she now does nothing at all.
I really need my truck running, I'm on day 2 have not been able to get to work.
All help appreciated.
#2
sound like starter selanoid is going out ...and/or starter...usually a tall tell sign when they get hot and have to cool off to work...but you usually get a little click or a grunt .
1.Make sure youre ignition key is turning all the way / column is in good shape
2.You have a solid 12 volts from youre battery local auto parts can check it
3.wouldnt hurt to check youre fuse box
4.Make sure you have a good ground to the block from the wire harness usually coming off the battery side to the block
At this age I would replace the whole starter and selenoid together if thats what it is
hope this helps
James
1.Make sure youre ignition key is turning all the way / column is in good shape
2.You have a solid 12 volts from youre battery local auto parts can check it
3.wouldnt hurt to check youre fuse box
4.Make sure you have a good ground to the block from the wire harness usually coming off the battery side to the block
At this age I would replace the whole starter and selenoid together if thats what it is
hope this helps
James
#3
If you know how to do voltage drop tests you can find this problem. You'll need an assistant to turn the key to the "START" position while doing the voltage drop tests because a voltage drop test is NOT valid unless current is flowing(key switch in "START" position). You can start at the battery and work towards the starter or at the starter and work towards the battery. Voltage drops should be minimal and you MUST have a fully charged battery. Are all terminals clean and tight? Are all crimps mechanically and electrically sound? You might find this problem without a schematic, but if you check all the easy, obvious things you might have to resort to a wiring diagram. Is the starter solidly bolted to the block? Remember the starter housing is an electircal conductor back to ground.
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