Well I'm pretty new to this forum. But would like to post up my current mild build. I still owe a little on the truck so I won't be going crazy as its still my daily driver.

My truck: 2001 standard cab step side. Z71 package, black, 3.73 gears, tow package, 265/75/16 tires. 4x4.

Mods on truck now:
-3" cat back exhaust with flow master 44.
-Drop in K&n filter stock box and tube.

Mods I've ordered:
-Doug thorley mid length headers.
-A set of 862 heads that I will pnp my self.
-Corvette servo
(hoping for 300-330 rwhp. And 360-380 rwtq. Is that possible?)

Mods I will order:
-Custom dyno tune,
-Cam (not sure which one yet. Looking for a mild cam to Run 87 with still, as gas prices in California are 4.30-4.40 a gallon. For 87. And I need it to pass smog.) saw a post of a 210/218/115lsa and he loved it. I was looking for a little more thumpy sound at idle though. Not super rough. But I want to hear the cam. (any ideas would be awesome) I'd prefer no stall. Or a very small stall like 2500 or something. Or videos of a 3,000 stall so I can see how it rides. Again this is my daily driver.
-stall- (small stall)
(hoping for 360-380rwhp. And 400rwtq.)

Mods that will happen after I get a different daily driver.
-supercharger.
-bigger cam.
-fully built 4l60e.
-3500 stall
-custom tune
-bored to a 5.7 (maybe)
Looking for about 450-500 rwhp unknown what torque might be)

Let me know what you guys think. I think my goal is pretty achievable. Any tips. Hints. Or ideas are more than welcomed. This is my first build on any type of motor. I had a cobalt ss supercharged. I did all the work on. Smaller pulley. Tune down pipe. Exhaust. Ported supercharger. Tuned. Etc. that ran low 13's. But I've never done any work on a v8. My dad used to build race cars. And he currently owns a 74 camaro that he says makes 800++ wheel horsepower N/A 454 bored out. No nos no blower. No turbo. So I have experienced hands that can help. But would prefer to do it myself. Thanks in advance.

 

If anyone knows a reputable dyno tuning place in southern Cali. (riverside, rancho cucamonga, Ontario Anaheim, anywhere around there) let me know I found a place emailed them a week ago. No response. Maybe we can get a dyno day ready in a month or so. Get some discount tuning. If anyone is in SoCal.

 

With just 862 heads and mid length headers you won't see that high of numbers to the rear wheels. 360-380 rwtq is high numbers, you won't even see that with a cammed 5.3L. If you want a good running 5.3L then you will need proper heads and milled to bump up compression, TBSS or NNBS intake, nice custom cam that is a little bigger than what the average person gets, you will also need a good converter to make use of the new cam, also large/heavy wheels and tires slow you down and lowers your dyno numbers.

It's not all about the dyno numbers though, take it to the track and see what it really does.


Look through the dyno results section on this forum so you can get an Idea of the hp/tq numbers and if you see a nice running 5.3L attempt to copy the setup. A lot of guys do that.


Btw just a LM7 5.3L with LT headers, custom tune, mild 220ish cam only can get you around 300rwhp/300rwtq to about 330rwhp/330rwtq. It depends on many factors like the dyno used, temp conditions, DA (density altitude) of where you live, huge *** tires/wheels will lower your results, what trans you have can make a difference too if you have a 4l60e which is stock they will not lower your results, but if you swap to a 4l80e later on they do lower your dyno scores a tad, etc.. Dynojet dynos do typically dyno higher numbers than lets say a mustang dyno.


It is not hard to get a LM7 5.3L cammed to about 320rwhp/320rwtq. It can be done pretty easily with just 220ish cam, good tuning and LT headers..


Also the NNBS 5.3L engines LY5, etc (2007 on up engines) are more powerful and have better heads and better intake manifold. It is not uncommon to see them score about 350rwhp/350tq with a 220ish cam, LT headers, good tune.

If you want to see a good combo LM7 engine, look at this thread here for example. https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...3-dyno-484580/

Now if you go for boost, these engines respond very well to boost. If you are looking to make 400rwhp/400rwtq or more then I suggest to just go ahead and get a kb racing turbo kit or get a tvs 1900 supercharger, or a procharger.

If you didn't know the little 4.8L engines, people are boosting them and making over 600RWHP + no problems.

 

You should return those headers and grab a set of the calspeed 1.75" ss headers as well, underdrive crank pulley would help...

 

Whats the primary size on the doug thorleys? Arent they pretty small?

 

They are a little smaller than 1.75" 1.62" I believe. But I'm trying to stay smog legal for Cali. Untill I pay the truck off. Then I'll boost it. But for now I just want a 13 second street truck. I'd be happy with that. Do you think with the trail blazer stall, a mild cam. These headers. A tune. Exhaust. Ported polished heads. I can hit 13's?

 

Jrmchevyman. Thanks a lot for the info. That's great stuff to go by. I'm not concerned about horsepower. That's just what I assumed I'd make. I know opening up these 862 heads makes a huge difference from what I've read. I'll have to find some info on milling them to maybe get more compression. But idk how to do that. I was also looking into doing a valve job. Running 1.96 intake and 1.56* exhaust. (I think it's a 1.56") but I'll need to double check that. I've read when people do just a mild port and polish they experience gains upwards of 40+ rwhp. And with stock being about 250-ish. That buy itself is 270-290. A cam is good for another 20-30+ depending on size. And headers have been reported upto 30 with the Doug thorley. That's where I got my numbers. Averages I have seen. Of course mine will vary. And may be less. And with a good tune. After looking into dyno tuning. I think I'll buy hp tuners and have my dad help tune it. But again numbers don't mean much to me. As long as my 1/4 time can be reach I wouldn't care if I had 140 horses. I just want a mid to low 13's. That's my goal.

 

It is not difficult at all to get these trucks in the 13's, especially with you being a reg cab.

The proper combo will get you in the 13's easy, if you live in an area that has high elevation or poor DA then it might be harder though.


I would do at minimal IMO a 278mm circle D or FTI converter 3000-3200rpm. They are basically reworked trailblazer stalls with upgrades and more features.
They are still a tame converter and you can daily drive no problems at all, and they are very cheap / affordable. circle d goes for $375 with promo code and FTI is like $329 iirc.

I would also try to get something like a TSP220 or TR220 or custom 220/224 or thereabouts. Then get some head work done or get new heads to bump your compression ratio up.

Also you do really need at least 1 3/4" headers IMO, they are more than enough but I think the 1.62" is kinda small...

With all that combo you will get high 13's at least, possibly better it just depends on many factors. You can prob hit mid 13's in good conditions if you have traction.

 

Ok for a cam I'll probably get the tr 220 combo they have comes with pushrods and everything else needed. 599.00 plus tax shipping. I can get a TB stall for 40$ at a local yard. It will take some searching to find a lower mileage one. But I just can't do the 400+ a cam+ a tune. So a used TB will have to do. Or I don't do the cam. And I think the cam would be a better upgrade. Since I've read people don't install stalls on the 220-112 and it works ok. (untill I can get a good stall) even still the cam is probably gonna be a couple months. As I just spent about a grand on the truck. With the heads/headers/exhaust and a few other things. I can put away 150-200 a month. So have the cam and tune I stalled in 4 months ish. At that rate.