With all this being said is this definitely a problem on my end or could this somehow be tune related? I just re checked all intake bolts, and exhaust header to head bolts. All PVC lines. Everything checks out.

 

 

that is a lot of difference from bank 1 and bank 2

can you keep it running if you work the gas peddle? if you can wedge something at the throttle stop to hold the throttle blade open (a little at a time till it will stay running) then look for a intake leak spray some MAF or throttle body cleaner around where the intake seals to the head if you hear a change in idle you have a leak, i would change the injectors around and see if the problem changes at all

very hard to say with out it in front of me but if i was you id go over the plugs, wires, injectors, look for intake and exhaust leaks, make sure o2's are not leaking, it might even be a bad o2 sensor id swap those around to, but only change one thing at a time so you can see what it is that makes a differance

passenger side got hot from being lean probably since the ecu is pulling fuel @ -24% are all the tubes about the same color or is just one or two showing heat?

 

Well when I had the error codes it was Bank 2 rich not lean. All the passenger tubes are the same color. Driver side bank 1 has no color change.

interesting thing is I’ve reset code and ran truck back up to operating temps and no codes are coming back. It’s still bad though.

Ill check with some cleaner for leaks tomorrow and all that good stuff.

If the entire driver side isn’t getting enough fuel would it cause it to knock? I’m starting to fear something is wrong with motor. Anything above 2k rpm sounds awful loud knocking.

 

if the tune is off it will make it pop bang and fart all kind of stuff, i would not raise the idle up to much

this kind of sound some like when we swapped my sons truck the ecu was programed for DBW and his truck is DBC it was like something your describing maybe take a peek at that

 

Well here we go guys. Speed engineering shorty headers are leaking like a mother on the driver side. Where they all come together was hissing air bad. Tried to get good pictures but bubbles were also gone when it finally took lol.

Hooked shop vacum up at the tail pipe in blower mode and found the driver head leaking bad.

 

What kind of gasket did you use?

 

my son bought a pair of there headers, when i opened them up and looked at him i told him to send them back... was disappointed since every one loves them

in the past i used "Percy's seal 4 good" gaskets on friends and my own leaky headers with good results its a crush type gasket, if its leaking from the welds and they wont stand behind them maybe you can have them touched up local?

 

Pretty clever with a shop vac, and yep, that leak will do it every time

 

I was using the mahle steel gaskets. It was leaking from 3 or more welds, not a gasket problem.

my oem manifolds from 5.3 are warped so I can’t put them on.

im sure they will probably stand behind them but I’m think about buying a set of oem like cast ones. I didn’t know stainless makes more noise.

i still don’t like the knocking noise my motor is making. I hope it didn’t get damaged trying to figure all this out.