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LPP's installed now having some problems

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Old May 7, 2009 | 06:50 PM
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Hopefully thats true. I've had my battery unhooked before and never had a problem.

I noticed that the spark plug wires were really hard to take off when i first took them off so i had to use a set of pliers to grab at the metal boot. Then when putting them on they seemed to go in too easy as if they arent hooked up properly. I pushed them as hard as i could but they didnt go any further. Is that normal?
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Old May 7, 2009 | 06:56 PM
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The thing I'm wondering is why it idles properly at startup but then after it heats up it takes a ****.
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Old May 7, 2009 | 07:12 PM
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Its throwing codes p0141 and p0161 bank 1 and bank 2 both sensor 2. It seems to be idling fine. I'm gonna take it around the block and hopefully dont have to push it back home.
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Old May 7, 2009 | 07:19 PM
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Just a heads up the start up idle issue is normal for a longtube header installs. It happens on cars and trucks every so often. Its basically a loss in back pressure. It takes the computer a little while to correct it self. It should work fine after a little driving.

The codes are just a heater performance DTC. All it means is that the time it takes the sensor to heat to the correct temperature is over its allowable limit. Meaning your cast iron manifolds can transfer heat faster then your longtubes. Plus the sensor is much further down the line now. No performance issues because of this.

Sean
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Old May 7, 2009 | 09:48 PM
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I took it around the block and it still kinda rough at idle but it didnt die. The spark plugs are black on the driver side and kinda whitish on the passenger side.
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Old May 7, 2009 | 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Speed Engineering

The codes are just a heater performance DTC. All it means is that the time it takes the sensor to heat to the correct temperature is over its allowable limit. Meaning your cast iron manifolds can transfer heat faster then your longtubes. Plus the sensor is much further down the line now. No performance issues because of this.

Sean
actually this could throw off fuel trims....ask me how I know...



if there's an air leak somewhere by where the headers bolt onto the heads this could result in the o2's sending the PCM false reading causing the truck to run like this...just an idea to look into
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Old May 8, 2009 | 01:50 AM
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Originally Posted by sonoma43
actually this could throw off fuel trims....ask me how I know...



if there's an air leak somewhere by where the headers bolt onto the heads this could result in the o2's sending the PCM false reading causing the truck to run like this...just an idea to look into
Should i buy new gaskets? I reused the stockers and none of header bolts broke off so they're still all there. I do hear almost like a whistling noise when I'm driving. Not sure if its coming from the engine bay or y pipe.

EDIT: But i dont notice anything when i have the hood popped up.
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Old May 8, 2009 | 08:22 AM
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sadly this makes me scared to install mine lol, hopefully you get everything figured out bud
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Old May 8, 2009 | 08:33 AM
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It's cheap to buy new OEM gaskets from the dealer, might as well you wont have to worry about them leaking down the road either. This may not be the problem but at the same time it could be, it eliminates one thing from the list, get it tuned for the lt's as well that may help some.
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Old May 8, 2009 | 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Chevy Cowboy
sadly this makes me scared to install mine lol, hopefully you get everything figured out bud
Ya I'm sure it'll be fine once its all fixed.

Originally Posted by sonoma43
It's cheap to buy new OEM gaskets from the dealer, might as well you wont have to worry about them leaking down the road either. This may not be the problem but at the same time it could be, it eliminates one thing from the list, get it tuned for the lt's as well that may help some.
I'm gonna pick one up right away. $30 per side at the dealership.
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