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Long tube gains?

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Old Jan 12, 2014 | 07:44 PM
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Default Long tube gains?

While I realize the benefits of long-tube headers I also am not convinced I need them for what I am trying to do, I am honestly just looking for any input to aid my decision making process here.

I have an 05 2500HD that currently has a stock lq4. Straight pipes, NNBS air box, airaid tube and 05+ e-fans. Stock gearing, stock stall, almost 35" tires.

I got a set of stock 243s, I have decided I want a baby 212/218 high lift cam and obviously the valve train to support it.

I was also pretty set on ordering a set of TSP longtubes for it as well, but as I am not looking for anything more than a little more power and staying with low rpms/towing and such I am thinking there is no real reason to go through the effort of putting longtubes on it. I honestly think stock manifolds woould support enough flow to do what I need, but I obviously am not sure hence the post!

Thanks for any input! I tried searching, but info for these heavy trucks with little motors is somewhat scarce.
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Old Jan 12, 2014 | 07:55 PM
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You need gears to match those tires .

That cam will work great in that truck . I have personally rode in a 2500 HD 6.0 with that cam/springs tune /muffler only and it ran awesome . Long tubes aren't a must but will definitley help . But you need gearing /converter to help with those big tires . At least 4:56s , they sound high but with get you back to roughly the same mechanical advantage you had with the stock gearing /tires
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Old Jan 12, 2014 | 08:03 PM
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You're probably completely right there, I do like my highway rpms with 4.10s and 315s though.
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Old Jan 12, 2014 | 08:13 PM
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Do the cam /springs /retune and see how ya like it .

Rule of thumb on most applications long tubes are good for 20rwhp , their gonna help ya mid and top end but not sure how they will affect your tq down low with your current combo.

I installed a set of long tubes on my truck when it was NA with cam only and I def could tell seat of the pants increase , but I was also running 31" tall 265-70-17 tires with my 3:73 gears .

Save the headers for last , I'd def do them but I'd do the cam first , you might just be happy .
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Old Jan 12, 2014 | 09:42 PM
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I had the 212/218 in my truck first, then the 224/230, and in the end, the Torquer V2

the 224/230 felt the best with towing and as a daily driver.
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Old Jan 13, 2014 | 04:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Tootall
I had the 212/218 in my truck first, then the 224/230, and in the end, the Torquer V2

the 224/230 felt the best with towing and as a daily driver.
There ya go OP , real world experience
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Old Jan 13, 2014 | 04:20 PM
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Just a heads up, if you have 35" tires stuffed under there, I'm assuming you are lifted more than a torsion bar crank. If so, you may need to modify Y pipes to clear the front driveline.
If you are 4wd obviously
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Old Jan 13, 2014 | 06:10 PM
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If you don't want to do headers, I say forget the cam and heads. I mean why bother? The stock manifolds are a big bottleneck.
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Old Jan 13, 2014 | 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by batboy
If you don't want to do headers, I say forget the cam and heads. I mean why bother? The stock manifolds are a big bottleneck.
In his case I'm sure he doesn't want to lose low end tq , if this was a car it would be cut and dry .
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Old Jan 13, 2014 | 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Tootall
I had the 212/218 in my truck first, then the 224/230, and in the end, the Torquer V2

the 224/230 felt the best with towing and as a daily driver.
Interesting, perhaps I shall look into my cam selection a bit more. Was this with 317s?

Originally Posted by SLCviaAK
Just a heads up, if you have 35" tires stuffed under there, I'm assuming you are lifted more than a torsion bar crank. If so, you may need to modify Y pipes to clear the front driveline.
If you are 4wd obviously
It's just keys and light trimming , but I don't have a Y-pipe so I would have to have that section made anyway. That does also contribute to my lack of interest in longtubes though.
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