just won a 5.3...?'s
#12
does anyone know the bolt sizes for the motor mounts, transmission crossmember, the bolts that attach the tranmission to the block, and the transfer case to the transmission? the driveshafts? how about the bolts that attach the exhaust manifolds to the rest of the exhaust? are there any specialty tools ill need to pull the drivetrain or any hard to reach spots?
or does anyone have a link to a service manual where i can find out this info?
how about a good place to attach a chain to hoist out the motor/tranny?
this is on a four wheel drive 2000 chevy 1500.
thanks, i appreciate all the help i can get.
or does anyone have a link to a service manual where i can find out this info?
how about a good place to attach a chain to hoist out the motor/tranny?
this is on a four wheel drive 2000 chevy 1500.
thanks, i appreciate all the help i can get.
#15
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iTrader: (26)
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 7,294
Likes: 2
From: Behind the TIG welder
I just pulled my Engine.
For the exhaust You need a 15mm deep and a 12" extintion.
Also the bellhousing bolts are 15mm, with 13mm nuts for looms and trans dip stick. For the top bellhousing bolt you can ether fight it, lowwer the trans/engine assy down enough to reach from the ground or pull the intank.
also you will need a strap wrench or big chanel lock pliers and a 15"+ adjustable end wrench to pull the fan.
Disconnect the battery and bleed the fuel from the line on the intake manifold. (after you are done under the truck)
Take a GOOD (as in quality) set of allens with you for the torque converter bolts. also a fuel line tool is needed.
There are thee ground straps on the back of the block near or on the left head.
You will also need a P/S puller, and a floor jack for the trans.
I used lifting links installed in the heads and a gange chain to lift it out.
I'm sure there is a few more tools needed, if you have any other questions let me know, I'll try and answer them.
For the exhaust You need a 15mm deep and a 12" extintion.
Also the bellhousing bolts are 15mm, with 13mm nuts for looms and trans dip stick. For the top bellhousing bolt you can ether fight it, lowwer the trans/engine assy down enough to reach from the ground or pull the intank.
also you will need a strap wrench or big chanel lock pliers and a 15"+ adjustable end wrench to pull the fan.
Disconnect the battery and bleed the fuel from the line on the intake manifold. (after you are done under the truck)
Take a GOOD (as in quality) set of allens with you for the torque converter bolts. also a fuel line tool is needed.
There are thee ground straps on the back of the block near or on the left head.
You will also need a P/S puller, and a floor jack for the trans.
I used lifting links installed in the heads and a gange chain to lift it out.
I'm sure there is a few more tools needed, if you have any other questions let me know, I'll try and answer them.
#16
Originally Posted by Wilde Racing
I just pulled my Engine.
For the exhaust You need a 15mm deep and a 12" extintion.
Also the bellhousing bolts are 15mm, with 13mm nuts for looms and trans dip stick. For the top bellhousing bolt you can ether fight it, lowwer the trans/engine assy down enough to reach from the ground or pull the intank.
also you will need a strap wrench or big chanel lock pliers and a 15"+ adjustable end wrench to pull the fan.
Disconnect the battery and bleed the fuel from the line on the intake manifold. (after you are done under the truck)
Take a GOOD (as in quality) set of allens with you for the torque converter bolts. also a fuel line tool is needed.
There are thee ground straps on the back of the block near or on the left head.
You will also need a P/S puller, and a floor jack for the trans.
I used lifting links installed in the heads and a gange chain to lift it out.
I'm sure there is a few more tools needed, if you have any other questions let me know, I'll try and answer them.
For the exhaust You need a 15mm deep and a 12" extintion.
Also the bellhousing bolts are 15mm, with 13mm nuts for looms and trans dip stick. For the top bellhousing bolt you can ether fight it, lowwer the trans/engine assy down enough to reach from the ground or pull the intank.
also you will need a strap wrench or big chanel lock pliers and a 15"+ adjustable end wrench to pull the fan.
Disconnect the battery and bleed the fuel from the line on the intake manifold. (after you are done under the truck)
Take a GOOD (as in quality) set of allens with you for the torque converter bolts. also a fuel line tool is needed.
There are thee ground straps on the back of the block near or on the left head.
You will also need a P/S puller, and a floor jack for the trans.
I used lifting links installed in the heads and a gange chain to lift it out.
I'm sure there is a few more tools needed, if you have any other questions let me know, I'll try and answer them.
thank you so much!!!!
i was planning on pulling the whole drivetrain together if i can. are there any problems with this? its a 4 wheel drive truck so ill probably just take the driveshafts off and the transfer case then lift the engine and trans out. do you think i could disconnect the p/s pump at the lines instead of pulling it? im probably only going to run an alternator when i get it set up in my rx-7, so i wont be needing the p/s. thanks again.
#17
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iTrader: (26)
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 7,294
Likes: 2
From: Behind the TIG welder
I think you will have better luck droping the trans first. the Engine sits way under the cowl of the cab, not saying it wont fit cause I dont know but theres not a whole lot of room around the trans. I would bet the transfer case will have to come of the trans. The bellhouseing bolts arnt that hard lol.
#18
If the truck is wrecked just cut the whole front end off, it will make it much easier! I pulled mine without taking off the PS pump. I did leave the A/C hanging though, so I wouldn't have to discharge it. One of those bolts is tight against the frame. Also since it's a 4wd, it shouldn't be as hard since I think they come with a slight body lift. Just cut the fuel lines since you won't need em. Also you might need a buddy to hold the crank bolt while you loosen the converter bolts. Be careful because they strip easy. Mine were 8mm "Allen" style. A metric deep socket set should do it. 95% of the bolts are 13 or 15mm anyway. You will need to bolt the chain or sling to the engine block with strong bolts. I don't remember the thread size though. Someone can chime in if they know it. What kind of price did you get since you have to do the labor yourself?
#19
Oh yeah, behind the intake manifold on the left side, there's the oil pressure sender sticking out. Be careful! It's a flimsy plastic piece of junk but it cost me and hundreds of other people on here 50 bucks to replace.
#20
Originally Posted by CashDudeHomie
If the truck is wrecked just cut the whole front end off, it will make it much easier! I pulled mine without taking off the PS pump. I did leave the A/C hanging though, so I wouldn't have to discharge it. One of those bolts is tight against the frame. Also since it's a 4wd, it shouldn't be as hard since I think they come with a slight body lift. Just cut the fuel lines since you won't need em. Also you might need a buddy to hold the crank bolt while you loosen the converter bolts. Be careful because they strip easy. Mine were 8mm "Allen" style. A metric deep socket set should do it. 95% of the bolts are 13 or 15mm anyway. You will need to bolt the chain or sling to the engine block with strong bolts. I don't remember the thread size though. Someone can chime in if they know it. What kind of price did you get since you have to do the labor yourself?
i shouldnt have to remove the torque converter, im taking it all if i can
. its a woman and her husband selling it and they dont seem to know much about cars and im hoping thats why im getting the drivetrain for 400 bucks.
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