CashDudeHomie

iTrader: (5)

I just ordered these from Y2K and I was just wanting to get an idea of how to install these. I am going to need a new crank bolt right? And a 3 jaw harmonic balancer puller I think. I can probably figure out how to get the old one off but how do you put the new one on? Is there a pressing tool? What is a woodruff key? Do I need to replace the front oil seal when I pull the old pulley off? Do I need something to hold the pulley still while I undo the bolt? Thanks for all the answers. <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />

dutch 99 chevy

how much are the pullys, will my 100 bucks cover it, or be close

CashDudeHomie

iTrader: (5)

Sorry you will need more like 220 for new ones.

work in progress

iTrader: (2)

www.truckperformance.com has the set of ASP pullies listed at 180.

CashDudeHomie

iTrader: (5)

I went to the site, the reason they are cheap is because belts are not included. Tbyrne's $220 price is with the belts.

AKZ71

iTrader: (1)

CashDude, I recently installed mine. Tbyrne sent a new harmonic balancer bolt with the set. Once I got the old one off I compared it with the new one. I am unsure of the reasoning behind changing it but they were identical in length and everything. I did end up putting the new one back on for good measure. It was a regular GM part and I would assume it is readily available from any dealer. It took me about 25 minutes with the impact gun to get off the stock bolt. It was on there pretty tight. I bought a 3 prong puller from Schucks for about $36. It worked pretty good once I figured out how to use it. You have to keep backing the harmonic balancer bolt out. It would have helped to have a bolt that was about an inch longer than the factory bolt to use with the puller. I ended up pulling it out as far as I could with the puller and then using a block of wood and a pry bar to get it out the rest of the way. I then lubed up the shaft on the new crank pulley stuck it back in the hole and cranked her down with the impact gun. I am pretty sure this would be a next to impossible job without the air tools. I tried to use a large wrench to take it off but all I ended up doing was turning the motor over.

YUKONTURTLE

I'm no help here because I had mine done by my mechanic. I didn't have the proper tools so I took the easy way out.

Slammed'99

In the new CHP they show how to install one of these on an F-body. They also state there is no need to change the bolt.

really slow truck

ummm.... you can reuse YOUR factory bolt.

the bolt is made of aluminum. cant remember the exact wording but after you torque it down in there, then loosen it to remove it it gets stretched and shouldnt be reused. the new bolt is like 6 bucks from the dealer, or if you buy the kit from tbyrne it comes with it.

i tried putting mine on a few times and finally gave up. i paid steve frank 25 bucks to do it lol <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> it took him 45 minutes

to hold the pulley still your going to need to jam something in the flex plate so that your crank wont move when you are loosening/tightening the pulley. be sure to put a very small ammount of oil around the inside of the crank pulley (just rub it around), makes it go on a lot easier.
there are no woodruff keys (at least none that are important) and no you dont have to replace the front oil seal unless you some how **** it up taking it off, and that would take mad skill! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

CashDudeHomie

iTrader: (5)

OK I know a guy with air tools he will let me use. How exactly do you keep the pulley from turning when loosening it? And when you put the new one on just put it on there any way and let it have it with the air wrench? How the heck am I supposed to know when I get to 250 lb/ft? Thanks a lot.